@Alfred However, your post made me think to recheck the Cougar control panel axis setup and I noticed these axis were set to 9 and 10 which were crossed out. I got it fixed thanks to your question. still not any indication of the cursor movement in setup but in the quick training Landing mission they work again. Thanks bud, I owe you a beer or two if you ever come to Dallas.

Duke

<p>mine was working fine for a long time then it started drifting. Thought it was the microstick but that looked fine in the in game setup.</p>

<p>@MLU <br />the other trick is to keep your cougar unplugged for a while , the time needed for the condensators to discharge</p>

<p>I just got my 3D-printed “shim collar” from Shapeways. They made it using Uri_ba’s STL file for the stock Warthog, as I described in one of my previous posts.<br /><br />I haven’t flown with it yet, but I predict I am going to like it. Now that I have placed in into the gap at the base of my WH stick (on a Realsimulator FSSB), the stick feels very “solid”, with no “play”.<br /><br />When this part first arrived, I couldn’t quite put it into the gap. It was a little too tall, compared to the size of the gap. I put a sheet of sandpaper on my desk, and carefully rubbed the part around on the sandpaper, to make it a little bit thinner. I only sanded one side, and I changed the way I was holding the part, and the directions that I was moving the part on the sandpaper, many times. I did this in order to (hopefully) keep the sanded side nice and smooth and planar, without removing more plastic from one place than another. The second picture shows the sandpaper when I had it on my desk. I could sand for a little while, then dust off the part, check the fit, and then sand some more.<br /><br />I sanded until I could just get the part most of the way in to the gap. I can remove it, but it takes a lot of force with my fingers. Now I feel no “play” at all in the stick.<br /><br />I will be curious to see how this holds up in the long term. If it somehow undergoes “wear”, I guess I can just shim it with some thin tape, or order a new one from Shapeways.<br /><br />At any rate, I am looking forward to flying with it.<br /><br /><img class=“ql-image” src=“https://i.imgur.com/bkaEpEm.jpg” /><br /><img class=“ql-image” src=“https://i.imgur.com/ol61Xk4.jpg” /></p>

<blockquote>@sphynx You should NOT need to edit the windows registry. Try this instead:<br />Please see this (old) <a href=“https://www.benchmarksims.org/forum/showthread.php?39899-Cougar-microstick-setup-What-am-I-missing” target=“_blank”>forum post</a> on your problem, and ensure to tick “apply enable/disable Windows axes states” in the CCP axis setup tab - it’s just above the “table” of HOTAS Axes.<br /><br /><img class=“ql-image” src=“https://i.imgur.com/m1nB9cJ.jpg” /></blockquote><p><br /><br />my y-axis is always staying below the center. I have a TUSBA and wondering if this is a failure in the hardware (the microstick) or is it a tusba issue. Can someone help? Thank you<br /></p>

Me too, it was random before … it even didn’t want to “communicate” via USB3.0/3.1 ports , so I’ve had to use old USB2.0 port when !programming the stick or use with CCP.

It was even on USB3.1 active hub … reading/using the stick was ok , but just CCP and Foxy didn’t like it.

BUT, … some time ago … 2 years? don’t know … time passes… I tried just for show and it worked just like that… wtf… even via hub. … from then , never problems.
Probably after some win10 update … I was given up on the case and it repaired just by itself.

I “suspect” it is/was one of the Win10 and driver thingy… as my USB3.1 ports are some “ASMedia” controller??? (Asus board) … but transfer rates are OK , as advertised.
Old USB2.0 ports are on Intel controller , so never problems with them.
…
Maybe you can disconnect all your devices , make complete USB cleanup … there is that NirSoft little tool for that USB…something 😉
So, cleanup all your devices,… basically delete them from machine like they never were connected… then plug them 1 by 1 and install as necessary …

Sorry, as I’ve said , no one can really help you with stuff like this. as … every machine has it own gremlins,

Cheers

@bvt_9 , that’s a great suggestion as I hardly ever use the Sym button on my TM MFDs. Thanks!

Personally I got rid of Foxy and Target long ago for my Cougar. Too many keypress conflicts for my liking. I use only DX programming in key file for all 9 of my peripherals. It works way better and it accommodates the shifted layer as well. Just save the file and slap it in when you reinstall and you are good to go forever, no more programming ever again.

@coral36

Thanks Coral I did that and it worked…

Sorry guys found it…

Buzzbomb,
What they said. 😉 Or just install the 4.35 Alternate Launcher , sit down with a real life HOTAS diagrams, and have your set up in <10minutes. Having the Cougar will make that even easier.
One thing I did notice, in my Warthog setup, was that the trim axis’ didn’t work on the Hat. But if you assign it by keyboard commands the jet trims just fine

Reports so far are ok

@fcarrica come over to the VTG we have a great crew that can help you work out AAR.

@fish44 said in New lease of life for Cougar throttle:

@aelfewulf said in New lease of life for Cougar throttle:

… My solution to this problem: digital detents programmed via Joystick Gremlin.
…Cons: unrealistic, needs some work to setup via Joystick Gremlin/game controller setup, and AB stages are not simulated…

Additional Con:
AB in the F16 is a not a ‘fixed fuel flow’, but a range. It is very useful to have this ‘granularity’ of flow, and can be adjusted according to the nozzle position also.

I have removed the idle detent ring (mine is the cougar) as it was too easy to fall over it on throttle back, and cut-off the engine!. With that out of the way and hall sensor on the movement, i get lots of range split between full MIL and AB (probably 85/15% ranges).

Yes! That’s how I setup my Cougar too.
No idle detent, yes afterburner detent

If you can, invest in a TUSBA device from Realsimulator. I use it on my Cougar throttle and it really improves the performance of it.

Also, check out Vipergear’s Cougar-Midlife Update Throttle Kit and Cougar-Midlife Update Stick Kit, also useful investments to extend the performance of your Cougar HOTAS

@antares190 beh allora grazie di cuore per il tuo aiuto e per la tua enorme disponibilità!
Sono rare le persone come te, in gamba e disposte a condividere e aiutare.
Ciao!

I also think, for standard currency here in Brazil, it’s very expensive!

Goodmorning everyone
We have resumed the production of the “Magoo-VIAF” Kit for the Thrustmaster Cougar stick which eliminates the great movement that is created in the XY axes with use.
The new pieces in duralumin and steel completely replace the strain original in soft metal, and with a small modification to make you (described in the instruction manual) will allow youto have a perfect and lasting Cougar in time.
It is not a thing for personal gain!! The pay requested by PayPal tranfer amount is 80 euros + shipping costs and the proceeds will be donation in favor of the V.I.A.F. No-Profit Association (Virtual Italian Air Force), no money goes into my hands or anyone else’s.
With a small amount you will refurbish the mechanics of the Cougar which will work perfectly and will last
a long time.

Thanks for your answers and suggestions
Max “Lento” , President of V.I.A.F. No-Profit