@Fish44 Problem solved! Got some help in cleaning up my joystick profile. I can now move my throttle up from idle in-game by holding down the Pinky switch and left clicking on the throttle idle detent lever in the 3D cockpit. No more engine flameouts!

Merry Christmas!

@coyotte Press-and-hold until you hear them come off. If you have a JetSeat or maybe a Buttkicker, I think you can configure them to give a “bump” too.

Heheh…yup. Mine’s still in there, #4937. The y-axis yoke failed about 7-8 years ago, so I pulled the guts and installed a VFS-WE stiff-stick from Vipergear this year. The stick failed in the y-axis, most probably due to a problem in the PC board (the VFS-WE went back to Vipergear and they could not replicate the problem, so pretty much isolates it to the PCB).

I am flying on a backup Cougar I bought via EBay when 4937’s y-yoke broke.
Regards,
Tomcattwo
(VoiceClone)

@Cop23rd thanks for that. Re-ordering my HOTAS in Device Sorting sorted it asap!

@jcook said in TUSBA problems:

How can I get rid of the SPD BRAKE Switch - Close input when going into afterburner?

05c93d15-10f2-450d-b432-f232a31caeb3-image.png

To ensure you do not have DX buttons 14, 15 & 16 bound to your throttle axis, you should have your Idle, Mil & Aft buttons display a darker grey inner box, to achieve this you right click on each of these buttons as in my picture.
Any green, as in your picture, means that part of the throttle range has a DX button bound to it, if the other two buttons are light grey then they are also bound - you cannot right click Min or Max.

@chopper27 said in Falcon 4.0: Coding the Key Files:

@white_fang
Yes I have that line in Foxy.

May I suggest ensure power save is off for the device? If not mistaken, control panel…admin tools…computer management…human interface devices…check usb and your stick/throttle devices properties for power save. Hope it helps.

@Atlas Vipergear is going out of business. They are doing their last batch of force sensing mods for the Cougar and will be reducing prices on their inventory .

@Badger sadly, I think those mods are no longer available. I know you can do something similar to the cubpilot that I was looking into for my TQS. Stuff for the base is different.

@Scrat The barrel detent ring ridges interact with a single spring-loaded receiver (double ridge that the ring ridge is supposed to ‘fall into’) on the base, so it’s going to be a bit of trial an error. Suggest you set them both at the same position first, and with the base back in place temporarily (without the screws), test it, and adjust etc. When you have one position to your satisfaction mark the barrel and move one away and repeat the process.

I would highly recommend (since you are making adjustments) you keep both rings together and only use the AB detent and disable the analogue idle detent (set g_bUseAnalogIdleCutoff 0), since theres no ‘hard stop’ with the tqs, and use the mouse in pit or a shifted hotas key (i use the shifted cursor enable) function to enter/exit idle. This will avoid any possibility of ‘cutting’ off the engine feed in flight, and gives a more sensitive throttle range, which will help with speed control in tricky situations like AAR.
My 0.02%$

@lcriscola Interesting. Which I approached them last year on replacement pots they told me they were out. I do need to find a replacement microstick cable

@Lotty Now you are motoring… …

@jcook In CCP Axis Setup, did you saved the Startup options (Axis response=User mode, Emulation=On, Calibration Mode=Manual Calibration, my profile loaded. That’s my options for i.e.) ?..

@coyotte I bought mine , can’t really remember when, 2019? , from “Vipergear” (NL)… they/ the owner? was here on forum , or was that old forum? … anyway just google for that name

You can’t miss with that, no more pots… never seen cleaner axis travel… probably for the lifetime.

Cheers

For someone to help you, they will probably need more information.

When you press those buttons in the setup/ control window do the stick: weapon release (pickle) and stick: second trigger detent inputs appear in the lower part of the window?

What steps did you take to try and pickle a missile and fire the guns? Did you complete the training missions and are you familiar with how to fire a missile and the guns?

@Alfred However, your post made me think to recheck the Cougar control panel axis setup and I noticed these axis were set to 9 and 10 which were crossed out. I got it fixed thanks to your question. still not any indication of the cursor movement in setup but in the quick training Landing mission they work again. Thanks bud, I owe you a beer or two if you ever come to Dallas.

Duke

<p>@MLU <br />the other trick is to keep your cougar unplugged for a while , the time needed for the condensators to discharge</p>

<p>I just got my 3D-printed “shim collar” from Shapeways. They made it using Uri_ba’s STL file for the stock Warthog, as I described in one of my previous posts.<br /><br />I haven’t flown with it yet, but I predict I am going to like it. Now that I have placed in into the gap at the base of my WH stick (on a Realsimulator FSSB), the stick feels very “solid”, with no “play”.<br /><br />When this part first arrived, I couldn’t quite put it into the gap. It was a little too tall, compared to the size of the gap. I put a sheet of sandpaper on my desk, and carefully rubbed the part around on the sandpaper, to make it a little bit thinner. I only sanded one side, and I changed the way I was holding the part, and the directions that I was moving the part on the sandpaper, many times. I did this in order to (hopefully) keep the sanded side nice and smooth and planar, without removing more plastic from one place than another. The second picture shows the sandpaper when I had it on my desk. I could sand for a little while, then dust off the part, check the fit, and then sand some more.<br /><br />I sanded until I could just get the part most of the way in to the gap. I can remove it, but it takes a lot of force with my fingers. Now I feel no “play” at all in the stick.<br /><br />I will be curious to see how this holds up in the long term. If it somehow undergoes “wear”, I guess I can just shim it with some thin tape, or order a new one from Shapeways.<br /><br />At any rate, I am looking forward to flying with it.<br /><br /><img class=“ql-image” src=“https://i.imgur.com/bkaEpEm.jpg” /><br /><img class=“ql-image” src=“https://i.imgur.com/ol61Xk4.jpg” /></p>

@bvt_9 , that’s a great suggestion as I hardly ever use the Sym button on my TM MFDs. Thanks!

Personally I got rid of Foxy and Target long ago for my Cougar. Too many keypress conflicts for my liking. I use only DX programming in key file for all 9 of my peripherals. It works way better and it accommodates the shifted layer as well. Just save the file and slap it in when you reinstall and you are good to go forever, no more programming ever again.

@coral36

Thanks Coral I did that and it worked…