Oh my.. New Core i5 +8gigs memory makes a world a difference in control…
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I can recommend the ps3eye alternative, it cost me less than $20 CAD off of amazon. I had a whole lot of fun making the LED array as well, and that was completely free - scavenged the LEDs and the battery compartment from old TV remotes. I did have to modify them so they had a larger viewing angle, but all that consisted of was filing down the rounded bits so it was completely flat.
But for what it is, it works very well. This was the first thing I did before I even started reading the documents for BMS, because of how heavily people were emphasizing the hands-free camera look. And those people were very right, I can’t imagine what it must be like to play without a head tracker.
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Oh ya… one thing f4bms has that the old falcon didn’t do is put a hud in the center of my screen when in padlock to display important info… How do I get that activated?
Search in the manual for HMCS.
BTW: your rudder problem happens because you’re using it during flight. Stop that and the “problem” is gone.
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there is no rudder problem…please look at the real video vs bms video for rudder snap. exact same behavior
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I know what you’re going to say… Shut up and RTFM right? There’s like 500+ pages spread out over a dozen or so pdf files and I would like to point out that in the real f16, there’s no need to read a manual to learn to “turn your head”…
Yep … but this is a software, not the RL … you can also use the Search function of your favorite PDF reader.
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http://www.free-track.net/english/
smooth Track IR
Price:
0.0 €- one day of fiddling the LEDs on a cap and preparing an old webcam
- a week of adjusting freetrack to your cap design and preferences
there are other zero euro solutions around, too.
welcome.
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http://www.free-track.net/english/
smooth Track IR
Price:
0.0 €- one day of fiddling the LEDs on a cap and preparing an old webcam
- a week of adjusting freetrack to your cap design and preferences
there are other zero euro solutions around, too.
welcome.
Yup… I downloaded that software, purchased some LED’s ($3) and a playstation webcam ($4.95) from ebay… I’ll just make my own setup… That was great suggestion and looks like its going to save me about $150 or more…
I make all my own high power LED lighting for my home and workshop using aluminum tubing and 10W chips so this should be a breeze to put together.
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Yup… I downloaded that software, purchased some LED’s ($3) and a playstation webcam ($4.95) from ebay… I’ll just make my own setup… That was great suggestion and looks like its going to save me about $150 or more…
I make all my own high power LED lighting for my home and workshop using aluminum tubing and 10W chips so this should be a breeze to put together.
Yes, its pretty easy and it is a cost saver
I did that too, and it work just fine for 3 Degrees of Freedom (ie : moving around your axis of vision). I found it not reliable with 6 DOFs (adding the possibility of moving the head itself in the pit), so I eventually bought a TIR4 & Traclip Pro, that was around 120 € IIRC.
As a power supply, I cannibalized an old phone (pre-smartphone) power supply that gave me exactly the voltage I needed. I thought it was a much better solution that to use a USB cable plugged into your PC, since if you mess up in any way (short circuit being the worst case scenario), the phone’s charger built-in transformer & fuse will take the damage, whereas with a USB cable, your motherboard does….
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no problem with 6DOF freetrack here the finetuning took some time though …
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no problem with 6DOF freetrack here the finetuning took some time though …
Good to know, thanks!
Any tips available to achieving that? What kind of fine tuning? -
Track IR: worth selling your First Born to acquire.
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here my freetrack cap, which I have to rebuild because I damaged the last one, and now it is just perfect and with 6dof for sure (smooth)
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Track IR: worth selling your First Born to acquire.
+1
I sold first and last and got a DelanClip. So worth it.
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Track IR: worth selling your First Born to acquire.
But does it perform any better than a good homemade free-track setup? And why?
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here my freetrack cap, which I have to rebuild because I damaged the last one, and now it is just perfect and with 6dof for sure (smooth)
I see a lot of people making them as you show… why not make one identical to the trackir configuration? Don’t thy just mount three lights in a vertical line on the side of your ear piece?
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It fits my tastes…… the way it is…
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It fits my tastes…… the way it is…
What I was getting at is “Is there a specific position configuration of the lights that will work better than others?” I would think a triangle is a triangle… but perhaps there’s something about the software or the camera or maybe even the game that makes one configuration better than another?
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I believe if you change the size of the model, you have to add the new measures on the software related to the model
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But does it perform any better than a good homemade free-track setup? And why?
Damned if I know…
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I believe if you change the size of the model, you have to add the new measures on the software related to the model
I don’t quite know what that means… Led’s and camera on order from ebay… haven’t installed software yet.
Are you saying that I need to tell free-track the measurements between each led light??
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I don’t quite know what that means… Led’s and camera on order from ebay… haven’t installed software yet.
Are you saying that I need to tell free-track the measurements between each led light??
When I worked on some computer vision, the model you give to the program must be extremely accurate to whatever you have with the physical model, or it will work badly as you add more degrees of freedom.