Gimbal Play
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:lol: you hard locked me.
Sorry but the terminology doesn’t help me to understand your post and also can’t help me reply that good.
So I haven’t yet but will.
The center tube (XY) were you put the metal foil like: tube foil gimbals. I want to put it like: tube silicon foil silicon gimbals.
Also in my pic where the many wires are putted which i covered in the next pic with the red plastic thermal insulation takes care of the y axis I believe.
Still there is metal friction and metal filings are scattered here and there… and the slim wires are cut and have to re fill often.
So to reduce those micro gaps I thought to just pour and squeeze as much silicon as I can… I know small amounts but what ever can save or make better… Not the best or recommended but when no money… a man got to do what a man got to do.
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:lol: you hard locked me.
Sorry but the terminology doesn’t help me to understand your post and also can’t help me reply that good.
So I haven’t yet but will.
The center tube (XY) were you put the metal foil like: tube foil gimbals. I want to put it like: tube silicon foil silicon gimbals.
Also in my pic where the many wires are putted which i covered in the next pic with the red plastic thermal insulation takes care of the y axis I believe.
Still there is metal friction and metal filings are scattered here and there… and the slim wires are cut and have to re fill often.
So to reduce those micro gaps I thought to just pour and squeeze as much silicon as I can… I know small amounts but what ever can save or make better… Not the best or recommended but when no money… a man got to do what a man got to do.
Hi Arty,
Sorry, I kind of rambled on a bit.
Here’s my current plan:
I would apply hot glue to the red line on both sides so that the 3mm shaft cannot move within the cradle. Instead, only the stick end will move around the shaft after I install the bearings. This would be much easier than fitting bearings.
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well hot glue is not that durable or resistant. it will be elastic and come off at some time. The combination I believe will be more effective.
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well hot glue is not that durable or resistant. it will be elastic and come off at some time. The combination I believe will be more effective.
I’m still not sure I follow what you’re doing. Could you illustrate where you plan to put silicon to stop the stick base moving around in the cradle?
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Guys, the play is a lot better, but I still hate the springs. They’re just too damn stiff making it very difficult to make precise movements. It feels very X or Y if that makes sense, with tough mechanical deadzones.
Has anyone replaced the springs with softer ones, or even bungee cord or something?
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Don t know, but i hopefully wait the force sensing mod from milesd
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+1
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Me too. Any ideas on the latest? I can see me really enjoying BMS 433 but this old POS cougar is making it really hard.
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Don t have any news on milesd. Awaiting…
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So I haven’t been able to get into the tech rooms at work yet, but whilst I wait I’m wondering if bearings are the right thing to do, or would a brass bushing be better? I’m dubious about drilling a 2mm deep hole. It would be easier and more precise to simply drill a 6mm hole all the way through the gimbal, and put a brass bushing in to remove the slop.
Thoughts?
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what kind of brass bushing would work… I did put a piece of steel around the center stick and it removed most all of the play, I would like to further remove play if I could add some bushings…
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Personally, I’d try nylon bushings - seeing as the metal on metal is what’s wearing the base gimbal, and nylon might be easier to find/replace from hardware/hobby store stock.
I’ve already replaced my Cougar gimbals with an FCC 3, but now you’ve got me curious to tinker with the old parts I removed….
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what kind of brass bushing would work… I did put a piece of steel around the center stick and it removed most all of the play, I would like to further remove play if I could add some bushings…
I did that also. I fashioned a neat piece of metal from a coke can and installed that and greased it up. The main source of play is from the stick base moving around on the steel shaft. Nothing I can do about that until I lower the diameter of the hole in the base. For this I’ll need bearings or bushings.
Personally, I’d try nylon bushings - seeing as the metal on metal is what’s wearing the base gimbal, and nylon might be easier to find/replace from hardware/hobby store stock.
I’ve already replaced my Cougar gimbals with an FCC 3, but now you’ve got me curious to tinker with the old parts I removed….
I thought brass bushings were designed for this? There are often several on my RC helicopters, where things aren’t spinning fast. Usually bearings are used, but there a definitely areas that don’t spin, only pivot a certain amount of degrees that use bushings. I already have the right bearings I need for this project; my concern is that it’ll be difficult to get a precise hole drilled.
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I did that also. I fashioned a neat piece of metal from a coke can and installed that and greased it up. The main source of play is from the stick base moving around on the steel shaft. Nothing I can do about that until I lower the diameter of the hole in the base. For this I’ll need bearings or bushings.
I thought brass bushings were designed for this? There are often several on my RC helicopters, where things aren’t spinning fast. Usually bearings are used, but there a definitely areas that don’t spin, only pivot a certain amount of degrees that use bushings. I already have the right bearings I need for this project; my concern is that it’ll be difficult to get a precise hole drilled.
Yes I was curious to see what size brass bushings to use with a link to a store that sells them?? I checked a few RC Stores out but did not see any brass bushings listed and I searched for them too???
I would think brass bushings would be better as you could replace them easy and would last longer then the cheap cast aluminum Thrustmaster chose to use…
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Yes I was curious to see what size brass bushings to use with a link to a store that sells them?? I checked a few RC Stores out but did not see any brass bushings listed and I searched for them too???
I would think brass bushings would be better as you could replace them easy and would last longer then the cheap cast aluminum Thrustmaster chose to use…
Here you go mate:
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p120255/AM0305-6-Oil-Filled-Bronze-Plain-Bush-3x5x6mm/product_info.htmlI may have the dimensions wrong as I’m working from memory, but I’m pretty sure I need 3mm ID and length of about 5mm.
What I’ll probably do is drill a 5mm hole deep enough to house the bearing. If I’m happy it’s secure enough (I’ll use green loctite to hold it) I’ll go with that. If not, I’ll just drill all the way through and fit a bushing instead.
The next big task for me is to find different springs. IMO the stock ones are far too stiff making precise diagonal movements very difficult. If I purely rolling in X or pitching in Y it’s fine, but once you’re fighting two springs it becomes problematic.
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The slop is still there and almost as bad as it was. I really need to just get the holes drilled and bushes fitted.
Even covering the gimbals in hot glue hasn’t cured it, as they just loosen up and stop resisting over time.
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Well, that’s me out of action for a while The slop has come back as the hot glue has worn (as I suspected it might). I took it all apart, and I’ve purposely worsened the slop in the stick base in the attempt to fit a bush, but with no luck so far. If I can’t get the stock gimbals to work, I’m going to have to cough and get FSSB R1. I’d rather not spend all that money, but it’s really either that or I give up simming for good, which I really don’t want to do.
The only other option I’ve got is to try and get the holes drilled to precisely 6mm to fit bearings but I really don’t think I’ll be able to do it so precisely that the slop is gone forever…
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gimbals are a terrible thing to have. Would thoroughly recommend FCC3, although I have it on good authority that the FSSB is just as good.