Refurbishing a Warthog stick
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If they are metal parts, take the individual parts and have them professionally stripped and powder coated.
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If they are metal parts, take the individual parts and have them professionally stripped and powder coated.
I actually thought about powdercoating, but quickly ruled it out cos in my limited experience of it (motorcycle frames and subsidiary parts), it tends to be rather thick once applied. I think it might be too thick on something this “small”, unless there are different grades of thickness available?
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I actually thought about powdercoating, but quickly ruled it out cos in my limited experience of it (motorcycle frames and subsidiary parts), it tends to be rather thick once applied. I think it might be too thick on something this “small”, unless there are different grades of thickness available?
Yes, I think that’s true. In fact, I have a friend that has powder coated small parts himself - using the oven in his kitchen. So it’s even possible to DIY. If the spouse will buy off on it…
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In the past when only the red trigger lost its paint, i bought some auto spray paint and it worked fine. However, when the black stick handle paint job itself started going bad and felt grungy, i decided it would be probably cheaper and more efficient to buy a replacement WH stick grip from TM. I did recently.
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Details on how you got a replacement stick grip, AV8R? And how much?
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What would be the best type of paint to use to when refurbishing a Warthog stick please? Ideally something with a similar sheen to it, which won’t rub off of dissolve with sweaty hands?
TIA
In the distant past working with automotive parts (restoration) that needed high scuff/wear resistance I have used “Epoxy resin” (long dry/set time) and Baked Enamel ( for larger parts I built my own oven in the shed) Baked enamel gave a better sheen, and epoxy resin was very chip resistant.
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Details on how you got a replacement stick grip, AV8R? And how much?
Emailed Support and told them my stick was unusable as aforementioned. They wanted to know details and even pictures, i guess so they can learn from a product quality perspective and to limit selling a limited number of spares to. Theres probably better reasons for replacement than mine which wont get the 3rd degree, but ill leave that to you. Doubt they will sell one off hand like a component due to availability. Cost was $120 iirc. Came nicely packaged.
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Ouch! $120 for a new stick, I think I’d experiement with other paints first.
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Painting… ya well…
I dont even paint my models. Best i can do is dab chip cover on my car -
Painting… ya well…
I dont even paint my models. Best i can do is dab chip cover on my carYup, stone chips. I hate the buggers. I spent about 6 hours over the last few days going though the stages of fixing a bonnet that looks like it’s shrapnel damaged. I tell you; it’s a lot harder to get good results than YouTube videos suggest. Still though, better than letting them go rusty or having to pay for a respray!
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…try living in the desert. Stone chips? More like sandblasting. After a point it’s best to stop washing our windshields because of the light dazzling off the pits…I’ve seen the entire front ends of cars stripped to the bare metal after a good strong windstorm. We carry glass buy-back in our insurance plans (at least us smart folks do) and can have the glass replaced on our cars yearly, if desired. Paint is a different issue…
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Ya Stevie,
I live in So California too, and drive to Phoenix for my kids college through the desert
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I’m in the high Mojave…windy today!
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Worn paint = Character
It’s old…
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Socks and Jarmies Schnidr ??
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SchnidrMan, you must have leathery meat hooks for hands!
Seriously, S/N 105 and still running. Should be in a sim museum. Think my lowest S/N set is around 8k and i bought mine as soon as I knew they were for sale locally the year they came out.
This does give me an idea for a TM thread and it maybe we have our “winner” already.
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Worn paint = Character
http://i.imgur.com/ZmxQtHa.jpg
It’s old…
Mine is even worse. The part that comes off is two sections where they put thick gummy stuff to make a rough surface and then painted over top. You can scrape it off with your fingernail. Where there is just plain paint it does not come off as easy. If anyone is thinking of spot painting it, they should remove the goo first or they will quickly have the same issue.
The wear looks like the real sticks on older model jets I have seen, so I’m keeping it.
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I’ve kinda been won over by the “authentic” look, so am gonna leave it as is. Looking at Schnidrman’s throttle, it is not even close to being that worn and I realise now it has a way to go… Heck, it works fine, that’s all that matters, yeah?
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