Flightstick recommendations
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Hi all
I’m an original Flacon 4.0 owner from waaay back; I stumbled upon it on Christmas eve 1998. I absolutely loved it! I only recently realized that it was being kept alive and improved upon.
I had a very nice TM HOTAS flight stick with dual Throttle back then and would like to get a few member recommendations for a new one.
While the Cougar and Warthog look AMAZING (especially love that Warthog throttle), I would like to get a stick for less than $200 US. Preferably one with twist stick or some other function for controlling Yaw. Rudder pedals cost money and I may decide to plop down several hundred on a full setup down the road, but not now. I’ve seen several sticks online under $200, but would like to hear opinions from folks that have actually used them. I’m also strongly considering track IR.
Thank you!
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Best setup possible is a Warthog stick and Cougar throttle, with Saitek Combat Pro pedals being the best bang for cost - IF you can find them. You can sometimes find Cougar throttles on Ebay as solos ( I have three). But you’re going to spend some $$$ on TM gear.
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If you want an entry level set to start, Thrustmaster makes a lower end full set. I have not used these, but a know a few that fly with them. Read the reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/
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+1 for the WH or modded Cougar recommendation. Also recommend a stock Cougar, but be ready to tinker with it. As for other alternatives, I’ll let others with the actual hardware speak up.
The TM WH may seem expensive, but if you are serious about Falcon and see yourself flying a good few hours every week, the TM WH gets cheaper and cheaper over time and as you use it more. I would also recommend getting a TrackIR first if funds are low…. you can link NWS to your ROLL axis so you can steer with your joystick on the ground. TrackIR brings much more to the experience. Also consider skipping on the TrackClip Pro and buying a wireless UTC Mk II device instead.
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Thanks Tx, that does indeed look like a good starter set, especially since it includes the pedals. Might forgo the pedals though since it’s a $37 price bump to add them AND you need a $20 RJ12 to USB adapter.
Ice, is the UTC a stand alone or do you need Track IR as well?
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Thanks Tx, that does indeed look like a good starter set, especially since it includes the pedals. Might forgo the pedals though since it’s a $37 price bump to add them AND you need a $20 RJ12 to USB adapter.
Ice, is the UTC a stand alone or do you need Track IR as well?
UTC is the compliment the TIR; it works better than the proclip LED, and FAR better than the older vector clip that attaches to a baseball cap. UTC is about £40, and TIR is about £150 in the UK, so not cheap, but invaluable. Takes a while to get used to initially but I’ve had my old TIR3 Pro for 10 years and it’s still going. Could not imagine not having it…
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TIR is a must, I refuse to fly without it. .
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dido on the TrackIR but I never heard of this UTC it looks interesting, I do not use a head set (yet, picking up a good one for x-mas) so I have been using the clip on the baseball cap works ok mostly but can lose track at extreme angles if you are not set up properly.
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dido on the TrackIR but I never heard of this UTC it looks interesting, I do not use a head set (yet, picking up a good one for x-mas) so I have been using the clip on the baseball cap works ok mostly but can lose track at extreme angles if you are not set up properly.
The UTC will still suffer with this if you turn so much that the TIR can’t see all three points, however the benefit is that the TIR won’t lose the track with lots of ambient light. I can actually fly during daylight hours now, thanks to the UTC. Worth the £40 many times
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I hate head tracking devices in general…but I tolerate inertial ones - I have this one:
They make both wired and wireless versions - I have the wired version and will probably pick up one of the wireless ones someday.
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If you don’t mind DYI and like a little project… you could pick up a FLCS or FF22Pro with TQS from eBay and convert this into a/two USB device(s) with some Arduino’s.
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I hate head tracking devices in general…but I tolerate inertial ones - I have this one:
They make both wired and wireless versions - I have the wired version and will probably pick up one of the wireless ones someday.
How long did you wait for yours?
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
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I hate head tracking devices in general…but I tolerate inertial ones - I have this one:
They make both wired and wireless versions - I have the wired version and will probably pick up one of the wireless ones someday.
I couldn’t live without 6DOF personally. I like the concept of EDTracker, but it would need to be 6DOF for me to consider it.
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I couldn’t live without 6DOF personally. I like the concept of EDTracker, but it would need to be 6DOF for me to consider it.
Last thing I want in my cockpit is 6 DOF…I consider it a cheat.
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I’m more interested in flying than in fiddling with electronics I always used to buy wired headsets as well since I used a wired TrackClip Pro but since getting a Vive, I’ve been wanting to get a wireless headset…. thanks to the wireless UTC device, it made more sense to buy a wireless headset now. Nothing like being able to still be on comms as I go get a drink or go to the…
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…certain fighter…er…excuse me - ATTACK pilots - used to like to tell me “I got more time sittin’ in that seat than you got on the…”.
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Last thing I want in my cockpit is 6 DOF…I consider it a cheat.
I can understand using the mouse wheel for zoom, but how is 6DOF a cheat. Please explain.
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I can understand using the mouse wheel for zoom, but how is 6DOF a cheat. Please explain.
Zoom is a cheat - as I understand set up, some people use translation in X to control zoom under 6 DOF. You can’t zoom in RL, and if you can’t do it in RL I don’t want it. As for the rotational axes, I don’t see why you need a rotation in X or Y…you just tilt your head wrt the screen.
But my main kick is that devices like TIR shorten your natural FOR by training you to move your head in an unnatural manner…similar having an off-calibration on a stick. Not interested in that in any way, YMMV. I may be open to using rotation in Y in order to provide up-look in my OTW setup…which will be a compromise, but I’m strictly only interested in that 1-DOF solution. And even then, I may turn it inside-out and build a tall screen set and a moving projector platform that tracks my head in elevation…I’m actually leaning more to this solution. It will all depend on how much room I end up having to work with - a 270 degree surround is easy, overhead OTW is hard.
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Zoom is a cheat - as I understand set up, some people use translation in X to control zoom under 6 DOF. You can’t zoom in RL, and if you can’t do it in RL I don’t want it. As for the rotational axes, I don’t see why you need a rotation in X or Y…you just tilt your head wrt the screen.
If you mean this, then I agree 100 percent. I used to feel the same way too about the L key zoom function, and wouldn’t use it, but as time has gone by I’ve come to accept others use it and I’m leaving myself at a disadvantage by not using it too. TIR and head-tracking, like most things in life, is a compromise - it’s the best solution available to us who sit in front of a single screen, so I say make the best of what’s available.
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Tilt adds to the immersion and naturalist head movement. Without it is like a robot moving to XY.
I also agree that out of the pit zoom is a chest.Στάλθηκε από το MI 5 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk