Pro Flight X-56 Rhino
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HI guys,
Sorry is this is posted elsewhere. I tried the search & read many posts in various areas, so hopefully not repeating a post or asking a question previously answered.I just ordered the X-56 after much deliberation. Would have preferred the X-55, but couldn’t find one online anywhere (too old now I guess). I would have liked to see what the TM F-18 package is like, but more than likely expensive and release date unknown.
My question(s);
1. Will X-55 mapping work with X-56?
2. Anybody know of a good F-16 mapping, or is it worth going through & setting up up exactly how you would like it to work?My take is, I’d prefer to learn someone else key mapping whilst flying, as opposed to starting from scratch to set one up myself.
Thanks guys. -
I agree with the OP, the x-56 rhino is the best for BMS that is new and modern, but the CH stuff works well, interfaces well, you won’t get the conflicts and fails you will from TM, or the older stuff.
I played with an x-55, the mouse nub thing sucks, and did not work out of the box as a cursor slew.
I have converted to an x-56 at home, but I am traveling. I have a three mode profile for the x-56, I did not go off the profile deep end like the OP says, I have one for combat/flight, one for landing and VTOL, and one for ramp and diagnostics, all available on the rotary selector…ahhh this makes me miss home, I’ve been playing on a laptop for about 6 weeks now.
I’ll see If I can remote access that profile for you, and I’ll upload it somewhere.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2dbGpdH8RvCbDBVaWhDQmx0NDA
Google thinks this is an audio file but just D/l it and put it into your profile location for the rhino once you get it.
You can print it out through the profile manager once you get it.
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also of note: mode 1, which will be the mode you set up in falcon will be the flight and combat mode, which I’ll break down from memory.
You want to set up your stick like this.
POV HAT up: AA master mode
POV HAT DOWN: AG master mode
POV LEFT: strpnt prv/wypnt prv (navy guys)
POV RIGHT: strpnt nxt, wypnt nxt
trigger: 2nd trigger detent
A: pickle
B: NWS/ MSL STEP
pinkie switch
pinky: paddlehat 2 is TMS hat: TMS UP TMS DWN TMS LEFT TMS RGHT
THE C STICK WILL be your trim stick, the push on that I keep as hud color cycle, some people set this up as the CMS hat, using the profiler, HUD color seems useless until you see just how great cyan stands out, red at night, etc etc etc.
throttle:
the throttle is a beast, so Im going to do the best i Can, I’m ignoring the toggles, but I would use those for ILS, INS knobs, MPO override,CNI knob, master alarm clear, things like this, your gear should be set up in the landing mode, mode 2.
all these other switches in mode 2 and 3 in that profile are set to critical systems you need to takeoff and ramp.
another thing before I start, the slider, will not work in any mode with BMS, unless you set up an advanced key press, which I have set up to operate as the speed brake in every mode.
E:cms up
F push; rdr cursor zero
G push: dogfight mode cancel
I: uncage
H: cursor enableHAT 3 : comms switch up down left right
hat 4: DMS up down left rightmouse stick is cursor slew.
throttle rotaries are manual range and antenna elevation.
ill post more when I can.
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the ramp start profile checklist would be as follows, if you set this up as I’ve stated:
put any jet you are in in mode three on the throttle;
Start in mode 3
switch1
switch3 x2
switch 4
switch 6
triggerthrottle to halfway after 25 %RPM
picklePinkie to arm the seat
tgl 1 up and down
tgl two up and down
tgl 3 up and down
tgl 4 up and dwonswitch to mode 2
repeat:
tgl 1 up and down
tgl two up and down
tgl 3 up and down
tgl 4 up and downthat just turned on your cabin cooling, fuel pump, electric, ACMI, EWS, INS, GPS, AVIONICS, HUD, DED, SMS, FCR, LHP, RHP, set your hud DED to the DED from the PFL, set the EWS to manual and spooled the engine.
I dont have the UHF AUDIO panel set up to my HOTAS, I use the pit, as I use it in backup mode all the time, and have a list of all the FREQS its much easier for me, I am working on among other things, building a USB UHF interface with working display as a learning project for hardware and BMS software particularly, I’ve had mixed results modifying and frankensteining some hardware as of currently, and have stopped using custom wares with BMS altogether.
Now all you need to do is get on the runway after you are cleared, switch 1 up is gear management in that profile under mode 2, after you do that left and right on HAT 1 on the stick kills your lights master mode. Flip it into mode 1 and you are flying a basic hotas setup for the falcon, minus the fact i put dms management on the throttle right near the cursor slew because i like to be able to slew while i tms and dms all at the same time.
good luck man, the basic thing I would do is, go install the software, make sure it is working, load the default factory profile that loads when you start it (so do nothing) and run falcon, go into controllers set up all your axis and set up all the controls with the throttle set to mode 1 like I told you.
then download this profile, and run it from the desktop, you’ll see now that you have the top “layer” of controls you’ve set up, as well as the modes 2 and 3 working as “keyboard” strokes.
just remember, anything you physically map within falcon will always be that press on the hotas, which is why on more complex set ups you must make your hotas mimic your keyboard, and the DX inputs is limited to 356 or something like that.
That’s why I map those raw controls I told you like PICKLE TMS AND DMS ,m the axis in falcon to the hardcoded physical hardware, then everything else is just software emulating the default keyboard strokes in the game.
so that’s why you have to do it like this . I wanted to be able to ramp in any jet even if it didn’t have a working pit with my Hotas, and with this set up, following the procedure you can turn on every system you need to see and fly and kill.
remember, if it doesn’t works, I’m fairlycertain you did something wrong.
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Mate, thank you very much!! I will download and have a good look at it when it arrives.
Cheers,EDIT: Just rereading….man very in depth, fantastic! Cheers again
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i got pm’d and I just wanted to say, I am reworking a profile to have a vtol stol and a landing and nav mode and a combat mode, this guy above up the page seems to have a solid profile tho, I took a look at it and he/she’s ramp switches are pretty cool and it pretty much covers everything, I might just tweak it to include the vtol stol stuff, as it has tons of switches left to assign.
I might switch to this profile actually. I had a profile for the different aircraft but it seemed redundant so I went back to basic DX, but now this piqued my interest like I said since someone pm/d me
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Can someone help me?
Buy the X-56 and I’m in trouble. I have all the buttons configured but when I am playing some porpoises they work alone, what can this be?I can confirm a powered usb hub will fix this Ghosting Issue, it fixed mine hasn’t ghosted since.
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x-56 is logitech BTW.
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I thought it was Saitek
It was… but now Logitech has the rights & drivers and technical support.
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It was… but now Logitech has the rights & drivers and technical support.
FYI, for drivers/software–- http://www.saitek.com/uk/down/drivers.php
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saitek drivers don’t work good on some systems, rudder and ghosting, I would recommend you install the logitech suite for the x-56, after uninstalling the old stuff from saitek. just backup your profiles somewhere else until you’re all done.
I know it sounds like a pain, but after I had some trouble with the saitek shit, I talked to logi, they walked me through it and sent me their x-56 with a logitech box and base logitech branding on the actual stick, I haven’t used that one, but I did reinstall all the hardware and software.
It’s worth the run and around.
also the ghosting isn’t USB power, it’s just macro and memory, just reboot your system if it’s really bad you should only see it after some system time, of course ignore this it could be melted or bad wiring giving you false input, but it’s unlikely.
I WOULD RECOMMEND ANYONE HAVING ISSUES WHO BOUGHT SAITEK CALL LOGITECH AND JUST USE GOOD FAITH, they sent me a brand new stick twice and let me keep the screwy one, it ended up being software so now I’ve got 3.
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saitek drivers don’t work good on some systems, rudder and ghosting, I would recommend you install the logitech suite for the x-56, after uninstalling the old stuff from saitek. just backup your profiles somewhere else until you’re all done.
I know it sounds like a pain, but after I had some trouble with the saitek shit, I talked to logi, they walked me through it and sent me their x-56 with a logitech box and base logitech branding on the actual stick, I haven’t used that one, but I did reinstall all the hardware and software.
It’s worth the run and around.
also the ghosting isn’t USB power, it’s just macro and memory, just reboot your system if it’s really bad you should only see it after some system time, of course ignore this it could be melted or bad wiring giving you false input, but it’s unlikely.
I WOULD RECOMMEND ANYONE HAVING ISSUES WHO BOUGHT SAITEK CALL LOGITECH AND JUST USE GOOD FAITH, they sent me a brand new stick twice and let me keep the screwy one, it ended up being software so now I’ve got 3.
Wrong on the USB power! I was not using the SST software so could not be Macro or memory. USB power is a known issue if you are not getting enough power through the ports you will get random button presses as I was. USB powered hub solved the issue and it has never occurred since!
Maybe it wasn’t USB power in your case and therefore there are two situations that can cause the ghosting?
I get annoyed when people make a statement that’s not entirely true! Enough said.
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+1…also resolved my issue with a powered USB hub.
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my X-56 works like a charm… just took some youtube vids to figure out.
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I just got mine and it didn’t work with BMS until I shut down the HUD software; that fixed all my problems. It has the ESD issue to I will get a replacement but that’s another matter. 3rd HOTAS in 4 years… not build to last though…
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I’ve since returned all my saitek sticks and had them replaced, in fact I had two the first one they asked me to send them for inspection @logi, which I did- the second time, which is actually the third iteration of this whole situation they basically just told me “we don’t even care they are all defective keep it for spare parts”
ESD and EM bleeds are all protected under the CPA, because any electronic consumer device “MUST BE ABLE TO RECEIVE AND FUNCTION UNDER INTERFERENCE” they may try and posture, but if you’ve got an x-56 that says saitek and a proof of purchase, just tell em to cough it up. a defective product has no limit under warranty, and must either be replaced, repaired, or refunded, in the USA. all you need is the proof of purchase.
Also, up the page, how’s your USB hub fix going? because that aint the problem. I get annoyed when people have to chime in because they think they know what is best for other’s based on only cursory anecdotal experiences. The HOTAS market is shit because it’s consumers are pushovers. the USB hub may simply absorb the bleed in the signal chain, which is really not a fix and will not provide relief for all ports or system architecture. thats a patch on a leaky tar roof. build a new roof.
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Also, up the page, how’s your USB hub fix going? because that aint the problem. I get annoyed when people have to chime in because they think they know what is best for other’s based on only cursory anecdotal experiences. The HOTAS market is shit because it’s consumers are pushovers. the USB hub may simply absorb the bleed in the signal chain, which is really not a fix and will not provide relief for all ports or system architecture. thats a patch on a leaky tar roof. build a new roof.
Thanks for asking my USB hub has still solved the issue so thanks for CHIMING in thinking you know the ANSWER!
Just an observation, you’re not a real people person are you?
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A powered USB is a must with the 56. Known issue of ghosting without one.