Getting my toebrakes full up: TUSBA or RUSBA?
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I’ve done some searching but not 100% sure if my understanding of the situation and possible solutions is accurate and what the answer should be so looking for advice and opinions.
I have an Evenstrain modded Cougar stick, with stock Cougar throttle (no hall sensor mod) and Simped vario F-16+ (think that was the correct full name?) pedals with toebrakes hooked up into the Cougar (so non USB rudder).
So currently my issue is that I am short two axes to have my toe brakes work fully. With Dunc’s Foxy profile I have them acitvating the wheelbrakes “k” but of course that is not full functionality.
So my question to you guys: am I correct in assuming that acquiring either a TUSBA to hook up the throttle as a separate USB device or getting a RUSBA to hook up the rudder separately will free up enough axes off the Cougar so that either way I get full functionality on my brakes?
If so, then my next question is which one would you advise me to get, the TUSBA or the RUSBA? Things I came up with on my own are:
Advantage for the RUSBA:
- my throttle is still together with the Cougar so I have no issues or complicated programming to do to keep my profiles working.
Advantage for TUSBA:
- I have read that it supposedly gives “more accuracy” and can help filter out potential spikes etc for the throttle and the microstick? My microstick sometimes drifts slightly but I might also be able to fix this with some axis tweaking.
Am I correct in assuming that if I went with the TUSBA that the R1 v1.02 would be enough for my situation (giving the improved accuracy/filtering) since I dont need extra axes for AB or anything like that?
What would you recommend me to do in my situation? I appreciate all comments!
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So my question to you guys: am I correct in assuming that acquiring either a TUSBA to hook up the throttle as a separate USB device or getting a RUSBA to hook up the rudder separately will free up enough axes off the Cougar so that either way I get full functionality on my brakes?
Yes, I have both.
Advantage for me. All is separate. If one device would die, I can still use the rest.
Another advantage, both TUSBA & RUSBA let you configure your throttle & rudder more to your liking. And yes, I feel more accuracy and have also deadzoned spikes on the throttle cursor and rudder in neutral position. Both are to recommend.
Any one of them is fine to go for. If you have spikes in the throttle, and no issues (yet) with the rudders, go for TUSBA first I would say.PS: shipping & support from RealSimulator is very good!
Be adviced, I had an issue of the RUSBA not recognising my rudders. Seems some Simpeds have a specific GND wire soldered that needs disconnecting. RS mailed me pictures of which one, was easy peasy. -
Thanks! I do not want to get both at this time so then I think I will go first for TUSBA. Do you agree that in my situation I am fine just getting the R1? Or can you think of a good reason to get an R2?
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R1 should suffice, I just took R2 because the low difference in price and possible advantages in the future, but for BMS at this moment no real advantage yet if I’m not mistaken.
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Another question then (sorry haha).
Am I correct in saying that if I take the throttle out of the Cougar and use the TUSBA, that I cannot do any manipulation on the throttle with the Hotas CCP? e.g. I can not do any axis shaping etc any more? In that case maybe I get a RUSBA so I can still make deadzones etc for the microstick? Or can I program all that stuff also through the TUSBA configuration?
Sorry for all the questions, I really appreciate you taking the time to advise me.
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Another question then (sorry haha).
Am I correct in saying that if I take the throttle out of the Cougar and use the TUSBA, that I cannot do any manipulation on the throttle with the Hotas CCP? e.g. I can not do any axis shaping etc any more? In that case maybe I get a RUSBA so I can still make deadzones etc for the microstick? Or can I program all that stuff also through the TUSBA configuration?
Sorry for all the questions, I really appreciate you taking the time to advise me.
No and yes
When you use the TUSBA, you cannot use CCP for the throttle, but you can of course still use it for the stick. So axis shaping for your stick can still go with CCP.
Axis shaping of the throttle can go 2 ways: 1/ via the Windows game controllers settings page where you can calibrate & stuff but not set deadzones; 2/ via Real Simulator HID DEVICE TOOLS (free download on their site)
The HID Device tool looks like this (screenshot of the FUSBA, but similar for TUBSA, and RUSBA) -
I ended up ordering the R2, also because it is not that much more expensive, and also because I imagine it is nice to be able to flash upgraded firmware when things are added and fixed etc. Also I saw that the new firmware will add ability to manipulate the microstick axes and since I sometimes have issues with those I wanted to be sure to get that ability.
Having asked similar question by mail here is their (very quickly received!) response:
_Thanks for your interest. I really suggest you get the R2.
Have a system that can be upgraded with new features is absolutely good.About the filtering and precision, be sure, is absolutely better.
The deadzone, was rewrited a few days a go, because a customer suggestion, and was implemented in the new HID DEV TOOL. Is the program that send this imformation to the R2, and will be released in a few days, just as today is in test by some owners. to check that work outside the laboratory like inside. and as soon as the owner, will give us its OK, we will release it._
Hope it lives up to my expectations
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This is fantastic news - I have an R2 myself, and so far I really like it and the interface tools for it…standing by for the update!
…and it occurs to me that if you are not using the TQS with your Cougar, it should be possible to build something to plug into the TQS input on the Cougar base to make use of those now vacant inputs via the CCP…hmmmnn. The labels in the sofware won’t match, but buttons are buttons/switches. Assign as you wish. I’ll be noodling on this.
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The deadzone, was rewrited a few days a go, because a customer suggestion, and was implemented in the new HID DEV TOOL. Is the program that send this imformation to the R2, and will be released in a few days, just as today is in test by some owners. to check that work outside the laboratory like inside. and as soon as the owner, will give us its OK, we will release it.
This is good to know. I also use the R2 with the Cougar TQS and Warthog stick. Setting the deadzones for the TUSBA via the HID DEV TOOL is currently easy to do. But, It takes some fiddiling around with to get it just right. As they are set the deadzones are not where you think they are.
Here is a pic for the TUSBA -
I think this actually varies from Cougar to Cougar…I have three Cougar throttles and no two are the same. Something I’d really like to try is to get rid of the mouse stick that is in there for the radar cursor control and replace it with a pointing stick unit - the little force-sensing nub that is found on some PC keyboards. That thing behaves more like the actual switch in an airplane as it is, and probably also has a more positive center point.
Not sure about how I’d do the Enable function though…but I’m thinking about it.
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This is the first Id heard of the ministick having a short/nonexistent throw in the jet?
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Yes - if you’ve ever had your hands on one of these cursor control switches (I have, in a few places) they are similar to the force sensing stick or one of these mouse-stick gismos. In fact, the first time I ever encountered one of these mouse sticks the first thing I thought of was how it was like the TDC in the Hornet. Think about it - if you were pulling Gs and had to move the cursor using something as sloppy as what’s in the Cougar TQS, you’d have a pretty hard time at it.
Looking around, I just now did manage to find a “pointing stick module” - which is what these are called - that is x-y-z capable…I’m sure the z axis throw isn’t realistic for TQS purposes, but I’ll take it over the stock Cougar mouse stick as far as performance goes.
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I see your point there, but in fairness I dont think you should be needing to mess with the cursor whilst yanking and banking anyway.
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You might think that, but given that you can slew some of the the radar ACM mode scan volumes and a few other RL things like that I might postulate, I’d beg to differ…
…besides, I even asked RedDog at one point about doing a mod to the mouse stick/button to make the throw stiffer/less “fast” in the quest for “realisimo”, and he didn’t flat tell me I was on the wrong track…or that I might hurt the mouse stick.
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I could see it being useful for ACM SLEW. Not a lot else coming to mind, so please feel free to expound on that a little [emoji14]
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You’re on the right track Stevie And if you succeed I’d be interested to follow the same path
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Thanks, RedDog…
BTW, I found these the other night -
http://sprintek.com/products/sk8702.aspx
and have been wondering if I could simply replace the mouse stick with it, given that it also behaves like a mouse - it even has a Z axis; probably not realistic in throw, but I’d get the function. All I’d need to is make a realistic cap, or fit the Cougar cap to it and…far more realistic controller. Still noodling pinouts.
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Seems like its a higher level device than you really want? Don’t you want the stick part without the IC and PS2 interface? I guess you could strip those parts off it if it works as a variable resistor, and wire it to the cougar in place of the ministick pots. That would still leave the z axis though.
Mebbe its worth starting a thread to brainstorm about it?
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It’s a matter of how it’s interfaced, really. If I can get away with stripping the PCB then yes - that will not only make things easier, I expect it will also make it easier to fit inside the TQS grip. But if the pinout for x-y-z runs though that little PCB then I will have to use it somehow…I have the datasheet for the device but it isn’t quite clear on that how it’s pinned out. I’m still researching.
It may also be cheaper to just plain cannibalize one out of a second-hand keyboard. In any case, I need to get hold of one and figure out how it’s actually pinned by reading it out probably. I have a Cougar TQS that I’ve converted for standalone USB operation using a Bodner board so I can s it with my iMac and FAF - this is the one I’d likely experiment with since I already have the connections broken out. I have three Cougar throttles, so I have some room for maneuver.
Edit: Ok…after looking at the datasheet again I think I know how to take this thing apart and pin it. It looks like it is just screwed into the plate that holds it to the PCB, and that the four solder points are x, y, z, and ground…the excitation voltage and ground come in at PCB contacts 1 ad 2, and VCC must be applied through the case/bracket. On the face of things this looks to me like it could be a pretty straight-forward mod, electrically speaking.