Oh my.. New Core i5 +8gigs memory makes a world a difference in control…
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Track IR: worth selling your First Born to acquire.
But does it perform any better than a good homemade free-track setup? And why?
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here my freetrack cap, which I have to rebuild because I damaged the last one, and now it is just perfect and with 6dof for sure (smooth)
I see a lot of people making them as you show… why not make one identical to the trackir configuration? Don’t thy just mount three lights in a vertical line on the side of your ear piece?
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It fits my tastes…… the way it is…
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It fits my tastes…… the way it is…
What I was getting at is “Is there a specific position configuration of the lights that will work better than others?” I would think a triangle is a triangle… but perhaps there’s something about the software or the camera or maybe even the game that makes one configuration better than another?
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I believe if you change the size of the model, you have to add the new measures on the software related to the model
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But does it perform any better than a good homemade free-track setup? And why?
Damned if I know…
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I believe if you change the size of the model, you have to add the new measures on the software related to the model
I don’t quite know what that means… Led’s and camera on order from ebay… haven’t installed software yet.
Are you saying that I need to tell free-track the measurements between each led light??
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I don’t quite know what that means… Led’s and camera on order from ebay… haven’t installed software yet.
Are you saying that I need to tell free-track the measurements between each led light??
When I worked on some computer vision, the model you give to the program must be extremely accurate to whatever you have with the physical model, or it will work badly as you add more degrees of freedom.
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Thanks OldGoat… I’ll be sure to make my measurements accurate. Are we talking accuracy to fractional inches? down to the millimeter? or do I need to pull out a pair of calipers?
My educated guess is that anything within 1/8 of an inch would probably be pretty accurate as I can’t see the camera resolving glare much further than that.
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OldGoat has answered already… No worries friend, when you have all ready to start using, you can call me for a teamviewer help if you need it
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Thanks OldGoat… I’ll be sure to make my measurements accurate. Are we talking accuracy to fractional inches? down to the millimeter? or do I need to pull out a pair of calipers?
My educated guess is that anything within 1/8 of an inch would probably be pretty accurate as I can’t see the camera resolving glare much further than that.
Errors will accumulate, 1/8 inch error will be way too big even for only cockpit space for 6DOF. If you want only inaccurate 3DOF (3dof useless for serious), then maybe it will track half decently. If you ONLY lean forward, the 1/8 inch error will grow like crazy. If you lean forward AND turn, the result will be even more messed up. And then how will it accurately compute you leaning back to rest position?
Even millimeter may be too inaccurate, if you have better tools use them. If you don’t, maybe adjusting curve settings can make it bearable. The trackclip is steel (accurate) and the reflectors are designed not to move out of position and should not. PLUS they are meant to be slightly forward of your head (brim of a hat). Putting the reflectors in-line with a headset top makes it work badly (i tried, had to put them as far forward as possible for better result) for that design.
So when you make it, you want to be super-accurate (better than millimeter). (Do you want to build something, and have it work poorly?).
Although you could just build one, and keep guessing the real values to give the software, to get better results if you do not have better tools. But that may take some time to do.
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+1
Using triangle LED setup here with the bottom two being 14 cm apart and 14 cm ahead of the upper LED. Upper LED sits 10 cm above. Sitting about 80 - 90 cm away from the camera.
Camera slightly above - 5 degrees.(adjust this parameter in freetrack, too!).
I made a cappy of garden wireframe. (3mm with green plastic coat)
One circle as the base.
A half circle to the Top from both sides.
A quarter circle from the back to the top.
From the both sides connection points straight forward to the bottom LEDs, a connection between the bottom LEDs and finally from both bottom LEDs to the Top.Very sturdy. With a brush haircut I once inserted a piece of cloth in the forward quarter sphere - otherwise the led got obscured by hair now and again.
Start with a 1:1 output on the x, y and z axis. no smoothing.
With this setup entered into freecam - and then looking at the scull movement from each side again and again while adjusting the pivot point you can see when it gets better or worse.
( carefully check if your understanding of +/- on the pivot x/y/z axis is conform with the freetracks intentions )
When rotating the cap it should not make the scull bow down to one side or the other. Try to achieve perfect rotation for each axis.
Once it does perform in all axis like desired you will quickly find out (for the model mentioned above) that you need a strong acceleration on the Y axis (pitch) to be able to look up high up your lift line in the cockpit.
The result of a strong Y acceleration is off course the neeed for some smoothing on the Y axis to keep a steady view.
The X acceleration can be linear - in fact it feels the most natural this way.If nothing works right, adjust the model parameters again. If the scull starts moving like you want the pilots head in the pit you are on your way.
A firm understanding of each of freetracks parameters and a lot of patience is vital to achieve satisfaction. Just get it right to start flying with it and note down what you need to improve.
If you fly alot you have your perfect setup that you can repair and adjust to your likings in about a month I would say.Hope it helps.
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Even millimeter may be too inaccurate, if you have better tools use them. If you don’t, maybe adjusting curve settings can make it bearable. The trackclip is steel (accurate) and the reflectors are designed not to move out of position and should not. PLUS they are meant to be slightly forward of your head (brim of a hat). Putting the reflectors in-line with a headset top makes it work badly (i tried, had to put them as far forward as possible for better result) for that design.
So when you make it, you want to be super-accurate (better than millimeter). (Do you want to build something, and have it work poorly?).
I have the technical and fabrication skills, as well as the tooling, to get better than millimeter precision but I have to wonder how others are accomplishing this… Most folks don’t have posses the capability to achieve that level of precision.
Furthermore, when I look at some of these home made devices, I can’t imagine how they would hold those tolerances even if they obtained the proper precision. Take that thing off your head, drop it on your desk and when you come back from the bathroom it won’t work correctly anymore? Doesn’t sound right.
It should be fun to experiment when I get my leds though. Thanks for the help…