TQS Cursor double pot drifting: known fixes for this?
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One other thing that has helped me in the past, remove the microstick “shield” - when calibrating, this allows a greater deflection and as such any nullzone programmed into the centre is slightly increased.
Hi Malc,
so yours is working a 100% ???
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Hi Malc,
so yours is working a 100% ???
I don’t suffer any drifting, if that’s what you mean.
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Is wish they could deliver me one As far as i know they are not produced anymore : (My 2 eurocents…
Strange, as they are still listed in Digikey online catalog.
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the drifting you are experiencing comes from the cheap potis of the microstick.
replacing the whole ministick have done the trick to me.btw, i own a tusba and really like it.
the deadzones can be adjusted independently and you can work around drifting to some extend. -
I ordered a few spares from TM, so when they arrive it should solve the problem (for a while anyways). And I second Uga’s comments on the TUSBA, plus the higher resolution gives more fine control and the idle, mil, aft, min and max zones of the throttle throw are all programmable. Not to mention you can calibrate all pots and set DX assignments to the TQS not done otherwise (like SLAP and JFS, etc).
RedDog,
You never did deny or confirm you repurposed real TQS military POT parts to put into your TQS, but your picture implies as much. Wow, if so, that’s quite the gutsy move (pun intended). Wonder if the real TQS could be used and interfaced. -
the drifting you are experiencing comes from the cheap potis of the microstick.
read the post again, our experiences imply it’s not only that
You never did deny or confirm you repurposed real TQS military POT parts to put into your TQS, but your picture implies as much. Wow, if so, that’s quite the gutsy move (pun intended). Wonder if the real TQS could be used and interfaced.
Yes it can be done, quite a few Vp guys made it. I sticked to my TQS for far too long, I’m doing the move thanks to a friend who sourced a real TQS + internal guts. The real goal with all that is the pressure driven radar cursors.
There is a need for an interface between the real internal guts and the Cougar. that interface replaces the TQS PCB. and guess who made it? -
@Red:
Yes it can be done, quite a few Vp guys made it. I sticked to my TQS for far too long, I’m doing the move thanks to a friend who sourced a real TQS + internal guts. The real goal with all that is the pressure driven radar cursors.
There is a need for an interface between the real internal guts and the Cougar. that interface replaces the TQS PCB. and guess who made it?Guess as in its already done? OK ill bite….Mr. FCC (Arend) or Bodinar? Is this generally available?
I have two real sets of FSS TQS in my av collection, but Im too collector minded to use them for simming.
This is what the TUSBA-R2 calibration tool looks like:
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I´ve the exact same problem - drifting microstick also with tusba r2…. I did try to clean the pot - buts the drifting perists…
Btw. where did you order the spare microstick?
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Thrustmaster customer support. They just arrived.
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Hi!
Could you share with me how you fixed this issue? What is the perfect solution for this?
I have the same issue at the moment. -
RedDog,
You never did deny or confirm you repurposed real TQS military POT parts to put into your TQS, but your picture implies as much. Wow, if so, that’s quite the gutsy move (pun intended). Wonder if the real TQS could be used and interfaced.I can today answer that question AV8R
It’s been a long term project I was finally able to bring to conclusion with a LOT of help from friends.
First I didn’t do anything special. I just have the chance to have great friends all over the planet and bringing all these friend’s help make this throttle project possible.Leech from Australia sourced a real throttle and real switches for me
Ghost and Rayman in Holland already had the throttle working in their pit after making the programming and they agreed to share the solution with me
And finally my buddy Arend from holland helped me streamline the solution in my own pit.
So all credit go to them
In the end all I did was holding the soldering ironIt all started with this little guy:
available for a couple euros on ebay.
The great thing is that the arduino pro micro board fit inside the throttle so all connections can be done in there. The only cables beside the miniUSB that needs to go out through the throttle arm are the 3 wires for the throttle hall sensor down in the left console.Interfacing the throttle real bits to the arduino board is easy thanks to the common colour code of the real wires. And there’s nothing fancy in there.
The real gem is the arduino programming which of course I couldn’t do on my own.and it works !!
After the above tryouts, the arduino pro micro board was hot glued in the throttle casing, the wires were shortened arranged and soldered straight to the arduino board
So it is possible if you are the lucky owner of a real throttle
What you need is the Arduino Pro micro board, the diagram and firmware linked belowHere’s the wiring diagrams with the real throttle colour codes
The firmware can be downloaded from Arend’d website (software download section)
http://www.vipercore.nl/index.php/download/software -
Hello RedDog,
Please you could specify the model of the Arduino Pro micro board, that you used in your ThrottleThank you !!!
malpaso -
This post is deleted! -
Hi Red Dog,
How did you handle/wire the Vcc and GND, which you should need more Vcc/GND pins for your implementation?
From your picture, the wiring you did is pretty neat.
Did you solder all the components’ Vcc/GND and then connect to Arduino board’s Vcc/GND?
Thanks if I may have your answer
Po-Fu -
Can you post the part number written on your real radar cursors switch (if any)? If I remember correctly it was made by OTTO…
Maybe one could use the OTTO T5 switch to replace the faulty TM radar cursor. It´s a 4 way push button switch and lot less expensive than the transducer used in the original…
https://www.otto-controls.com/t5-4-way-plus-center-pushbutton-mini-trim
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Let’s wake up this thread. Drifting of cursor happens without any obvious reason. Calibrating solves the problem for a while but it reappears after few minutes. Falcon bms controls page avionics has no movement of the bars and no cross movement or drift on win calibrating tool.
Today returning from a CAP with clear weather no winds I noticed cursors moving to the right but I was on final so I didn’t touch the microstick to center it. Touching down after nose down and wheel brakes release without winds, clear day, no reason for drifting- no touching the pedals, no trim, the aircraft was drifting to the right. So while cursors stropped drifting cause I was on the ground the whole aircraft was drfting to the right!! I don’t know if that means something but I’ll try to reproduce it with TE’s. I’ dont thing that the microstick is the problem…It’s something else… Oh I forgot to mention that unplug and replug the throttle (USB TUSBA R1) corrects the problem without calibration but it reappears after a while…:crazy:
Edit: rudders T Flight Thrustmaster with no calibrating problems .
Red dog is right…read the post again, our experiences imply it’s not only that
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I should have my replacement microstick tomorrow, and I do hope it solves my radar cursor problems. It started as an occasional drift but quickly got much worse, and became problematic while calibrating (center value less than minimum value), so not just in the game. I had to disable it completely in Foxy and use the keyboard for cursors.
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Yep, works like a brand new microstick. Because it is. Not sure what issue others above are having.
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where did you get the new microstick?
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