I would always recommend doing research for one specific vessel to a given time. Thanks to Internet you can find a lot of photos for your project. When you have choosen a certain Viper with its given serial# you will see what colours you’ll need or could post or better pm (copyright) me a photo, best with full side of aircraft visible in good light.
Doing have glass is pain in the…… I’ve built a Hasegawa F22 in 1/48 and it took me a lot of time and mixing colours to simulate a realistic Raptor sheen. Which kit and scale are you building?
Latest posts made by Foxmike
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RE: 'Standard' USAF Viper Schemes
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RE: Is the Thrustmaster T-Flight a good "default" rudder pedal?
Hi.
The TM rudder pedals are too narrow and the spring is weak, so no realistic feedback. Braking is ok. You can add or mod that spring, but that doesn’t help much. The pedals are narrow that after some flying rudder intensiv aircraft my knee/legs hurt. Well, the prize is ok and for just flying Vipers these pedals are enough. Of course you can buy handcrafted premium products from all the small manufacturers in the net for several hundred $.Cheers
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RE: AGM-84A bugs report
I can confirm bug/feature 1 and 3 from my own experience in BMS. I have never seen a Harpoon missile irl, nor a picture of Viper with such a load and I personally don’t know any Pilot with Harpoon experience to ask. So it’s hard to say if thats either bug or real live behaviour. But missile step works fine and I never had problems to choose skim or pop up mode. That must be your HOTAS. I guess its normal, that you see REL while you pickle and nothing happens. Sometimes it takes at least 4 s, maybe the aircraft isn’t within (speed) limits, I don’t know. But definitely one bug is that the Harpoons run straight into Aegean islands like dumb bombs, as far as I know they should evade or climb, so I need to approach sometimes 30 nm or even closer to get free sight and achieve a good hit.
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RE: Air-to-Air Radar Troubles
It needs some practice and of course knowledge what you and your antenna are doing. If the bandits have their music on or drop some chaffs it´s of course more difficult to lock and the small Viper antenna has a limited range, you don´t have a AWG9 or APG71in your nose. I guess you are looking out in a too large search pattern and range setting, it takes a lot of time until you see a first radar dot when the antenna moves all that way and returns for another dot. Check your search altitude and place antenna elevation and/or radar cursor to expected bandit altitudes. If you can see the bandit visually, just use all your auto Dogfight modes and switch to the proper mode , vertical scan for example and just place the line on the bandit. BVR, just place the RWR diamond in front of you and reduce scan width, watch the right scan altitude of your radar cursor and reduce range to 20 or max 40.
So, first, know what you´re doing and do training.
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RE: When do you run Mav and TGP handoff process?
Sometimes I bsgt when delivering from full loaded LAU-88, what you would rarely see irl. When I bsgt such stations and handoff I can ( sometimes, not always) deliver all 6 Mavs in one run befor turning away. but a typical loadout irl would be 2 Mavs. I see really no need for bsgt the stations just because you can. I watch the pod on the right MFD while I slew the seekers on the left. My targets are always locked clear before I have a 100% DLZ position, so a handoff process would even waste my time, when my targets are clearly identified via pod picture compared to my Mav picture. With two targets I even ripple the two Mavs, so don’t have pain with bsgt and handoff, just play the piano and deliver the old way.
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RE: Livrot Mic Command - Preview Release
Hi Torvil.
I tried that and I even unpluged all old devices like Warthog throttle and stick. I tried different ports, USB2 and 3, it doesn´t make a difference. My Bodnar device is always in the USB device list and I even can choose it in the LMC advanced hotkey setting for replacing other devices. But all buttons I press are not seen by LMC. Like any other Joystick the Bodnar is shown by Windows as game controller (HID and USB device). Energy settings and all other HID and USB settings are standard, so I don´t know where to start from for making the buttons visible for LMC. Maybe any frequencies, I dont´t know. But even the Arduino board is well accepted and seen by LMC, so it seems to be a special problem with the Bodnar board and LMC only.
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RE: Livrot Mic Command - Preview Release
No, I didn’t. My idea was to autoload one profile working with all controllers and sims. But as long as problem one isn’t solved problem two doesn’t matter. I have still no idea why the buttons of my Bodnar device are not seen by LMC but all other programms.
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RE: Livrot Mic Command - Preview Release
Hi.
I installed several new USB game controllers but one of them can
t be recorded as LL-Hotkey. No button of that device (Leobodnar USB interface) shows up in LMC, but shows well in BMS or even the Win10 gamecontroller setup and event tester. There is no "eating" software like TARGET running. So I can
t imagine why this device doesn`t work with LMC. Is there any device setting with influence to that problem? And second question: I want to use two USB devices alternatively with MIC PTT buttons, but I can only record one alternative as DX Hotkey for MIC in Livrot as I can see. Is there a way to use 2 USB devices with seperate PTT buttons within one profile or must I always switch LMC profiles ? -
Old Thrustmaster TQS and F-22 revival Win10
Hi.
Just for the interested. I own very old 80 and 90s stuff, one of the first Thrustmaster wooden viper cockpits with all add ons, old TQS, F22……so I “played” the very first Sims and controllers from C64, Atari ST, PC on. I was searching for a manual bringing the old TQS with its mixture of PS2, serial, Gamport back to live. I only read in the DCS forum about users who used bodnar boards but without any complete explanation. So I just want to write here some description for those who own the old TQS and want to use it on new Win10 systems.First, it works, and it works great! Theres no pain building the TQS to USB standard, it goes nice and easy.
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You wipe out all the old boards of the TQS and replace it with a Leo Bodnar board, you can use the cheaper ones (BU0836A) or the top variant BU0836X as I did. Buy some cabels for wiring and a 3-4$ XBox/PS2/3/4 thumbstick for the cursor control/Enable switches.
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Remove the old Mouse control stuff from the trottle an replace it with the thumbstick, it will fit without problems, just ensure that it stays right in place without moving.
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Then just follow the colours of the old TQS wiring and solder (BU0836A, but then you have to solder some diodes too or you just use the Bodnar matrix board) or just plug (BU0836X) the cabels. Just follow the right colours and plug all buttons and pots; you can use one ground and one +5V cable common for all switches or pots, so you just have to solder new cables for the thumbstick and thumbstick button.
The Bodnar board allows to connect 8 axes and 32 buttons, one hat switch. The board is “the whole controller”, you just add all axes and buttons you want and you don´t have to program anything, you can use any kind of buttons, switches and all common pots (1 - 100k). You don´t have to use any old, spiky Thrustmaster pots, cou can replace them with newer 10k joystick pots or mix pots of different size/value. You can even add new axes and switches as I did (see jpg), I used additional three pots, two of them with On/OFF switch for HMCS and HUD control. You can calibrate all axes and the new pots in the Win10 game controller settings and then all works fine in BMS. Just match the right keys in BMS controller settings to your new USB device and the corresponding switches/axes.
Of course you can use the old Thrustmaster pots, but then better clean them (inside) as I did; disasamle the pot (don´t just spray in), remove the grease and dirt and bend all the small contacts (cleaned) into place. Then the spikes are gone for a time.
Because the old TQS is made from plastic you can easily drill and model the throttle as you want. You can see in the pictures my home built idle and AB detents, I just used the hardware I found and some bike parts for that, the idle detent can only be accessed by lifting the cutoff release handle (just mechanically as IRL, but of course without rotating the throttle handle up/outwards).
If you want to use the F22 stick, the best way is to use a Arduino board, there are several good manuals on the DCS forum, so I don´t explain it here how to do, you will even find the software you need in that forum. I just added two more pics for demonstration, I combined the F22 grip with an old Microsoft Sidewinder Force Feedback2 for flying Huey and some planes in DCS VR with realsitic Feedback and Trim functions. I used the free buttons and axes of the FFB to build a collective helicopter control with working throttle ant the most important switches there. A 20 bucks adjustable motorcycle steering damper takes care of realistic collective movement.
If anybody needs futher explanation you´re welcome.
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RE: Reorient Microstick Axis
Thanks for help. Two more questions for the experts:
I searched Google for a picture of the Block 50/52 throttle grip with night vision blackout switch visible and found only some drawings. Could anybody upload a picture here if available? The new cursor slew control described as Reverse China Hat looks similar to PlayStation thumbsticks. Does it even move like a thumstick regarding throw angles an so on?