@jcook said in TUSBA problems:

How can I get rid of the SPD BRAKE Switch - Close input when going into afterburner?

To ensure you do not have DX buttons 14, 15 & 16 bound to your throttle axis, you should have your Idle, Mil & Aft buttons display a darker grey inner box, to achieve this you right click on each of these buttons as in my picture.
Any green, as in your picture, means that part of the throttle range has a DX button bound to it, if the other two buttons are light grey then they are also bound - you cannot right click Min or Max.

I was going through my e mails with Realsimulators Bartolome as I had some re-occurring issues with both my rudder pedals not centering and my cursors drifting again.

For your picture I suppose your operating system is W10 and if it is true, we have found that w10 has some problems with the composite devices and sometime don’t connect well with the device. To fix this problem, please, open the Printers and Devices window and click with the right mouse button on the RUSBA icon and press “Remove Device” option to force windows to change the device. I think after this, your RUSBA will work properly.

I am using Win 10 and doing the above has, as noted in the OP, put my pedals and cursors back to their respective centres by removing both TUSBA and RUSBA then reinstalling both.

Happy days

@samis:

I tried it, and it does not work. you are very lucky!

Try calibrating your cursors with this

@JUmpstart5179:

I will but trying to figure it out.

Maybe this will help?

Also, DiView is the calibration software that LeoBodnar boards provide as per this link http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=page&id=12 so, you’ve got everything you need.

@JUmpstart5179:

I’m still experience stick drift. For me I am using a leobonard board and a delta sim microstick. Any thoughts?

Have you tried adjusting\increasing your dead zones etc in game, under controllers > advanced > avionics.

Not being familiar with LeoBodnar boards and not knowing what, if any control software it might have, I can’t suggest anything further other than increasing the dead zones in game, there maybe some adjustments under windows game controllers applet, but again, I’m not familiar with it as my TUSBA etc is supplied with it’s own dedicated HID software that allows calibration and dead zone adjustment, my TQS has the original microstick, the only internal change I made was the throttle pot, upgraded to a HAL sensor, the TUSBA converts the TQS into a standalone USB device providing 12 bit resolution for much better accuracy. This is why the red raw values in DiViewer are used for calibration as the black values represent a windows standard which I believe are problematic for calibrating through the original gameport connector or it’s a precedence issue that windows generally wins, my memory is hazy on this but the solution for me and many others was TUSBA.

In the event you might be interested, here’s the link to Realsimulators TUSBA https://realsimulator.com/tusba/ I can’t recommend their products highly enough for getting a second life and better overall control of your original Cougar setup.

Sorry I can’t be of much more help but please, keep us updated and let us know if changing your deadzones helped, there may well be people in the future looking for a solution.

@JUmpstart5179:

Thanks. Did you do this for the Z Axis as well or just the microstick?

Only the microstick, my Z axis reports 98.5% and 0.05% or 64574 and 32 so, no need and Z rotation is on a HAL sensor so, again, no need.

@JUmpstart5179:

I mean the red numbers. Did you use the red at both ends of the axis for getting the average?

Sorry, yes. Separately on each axis move the axis to each of its limits and note the red numbers at each max and min position, these should be input in the max and min fields in the calibration applet, then average between the red numbers to get the centre, again input this in the centre field of the calibration applet.

@JUmpstart5179:

Can you share the process?

It’s in the post.

Sorry, no, seeing as you emptied your recycle bin you cannot properly remove after the fact.

However

In your original post you could always try deleting the Registry entry as noted in your screenshot.

You see, because you just deleted the installation folder, your computer doesn’t know it has been uninstalled hence why, when you run setup, it won’t work because setup checks the registry before it proceeds to install.

Also, you should never have to re-download the setup files, you should keep these in a “safe” place so as you can properly uninstall or for that matter, update the installed program.

A couple of questions

1. What did you delete?
2. What did you download?

To properly remove an installed copy of 4.34 you must run the 4.34 setup exe and select remove product from your computer.