ah yes, cool down those heat seekers, on the same MFD, right side, WARM/COOL, you can hear the growl change when you do, faster lock and more accurate when fired, vital for dogfights. Do not need to uncage to bring up the eclipse cue, but you can uncage for close range dogfights that are within the heat seeker’s view. Using the radar locked to the HMCS gives a wider view for the missile and does require the missile to be caged to the radar. Practicing will give you a better idea of when to use and when not to use the HMCS. Personally i find when i come back into a dogfight, looking up, i want to lock on earlier with the radar during the turn, before they do, although i am not yet sure the success rate when i do.
To unlock a target, simply pull down on the TMS switch, NO RAD, and push and hold TMS again to bring up the cueing ellipse again, looking for your next target. This also works the same when you padlock targets. The cueing ellipse will not lock onto a fired missile, so no need to look closer, just move to your next target, or chaff/flare if it is a missile coming towards you.
Another tip, there is always two ships or more when enemies engage, and it is better to egress the dogfight quickly, and get far enough out before turning, so that you have enough time to look and lock onto two, three, or four enemy aircraft when you come back into the fight. Using HMCS will give you the shot, without having to turn fully into the seeker heads range of view. This will give you the extra time to engage all targets in the limited time, while also evading incoming enemy missiles. Also try to get within your maximum turning speed during turns to give you the time advantage, throttling back and air-braking as needed. A few extra seconds may save your life…or someone else’s life.
Latest posts made by FNG
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RE: HMCS Head Mounted Cueing System training video in BMS 4.32
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HMCS Head Mounted Cueing System training video in BMS 4.32
Using default settings for Hotas Cougar and BMS.
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DIY Make your own Track IR Pro headset, 3 point clip, for less than $10
Was reading how some were making their own DIY head tracking light sets, so i thought i would give that dusty graduation diploma from DeVry college some pay back…
Turns out it works.
The exact dimension specs seem to be important to the Track IR head set lights to work properly.
Currently i am using the FreeTrack software, that is a free open source program, that integrates with Track IR and is tested to work in Falcon.I had to dismantle a bicycle light, removing some of the 5 LEDs, and in this model, i left 2 out(still works ok), and relocated 2 LEDs to wired positions, for a 3 point head tracking clip.
I then ran the wires thru plastic straws(light weight), and soldered in place. Took me about 5 hours total, from research, to final testing.
Added a clip to it by modifying(bending) the clip wire. Simple attach to your headphone set or baseball cap.
You will need to learn how to calibrate the software to whatever camera you choose to use. Does not require an expensive webcam, $20 tops.
Takes a bit of repeat tweaking to get the software to suit you. 72nd VFM Virtual Fighter Wing has a page that can help you with the FreeTrack settings, but ultimately if you play around with the settings you will eventually get it to work. Every system camera is different, so tweaking is necessary.
Uses rechargeable batteries, rather than occupying a USB port or USB wall plug, although one could research that mod if they want.
One last tip…pay attention to where your hand is when you reach for that hot soldering iron. It will bite you hard and deep, long before you even realize it, and realize it you WILL. ha
And pay attention to the original LED wiring when you rewire them, as they only work one way. Test it before you solder it. Also use sand paper or a grinding wheel to grind down the round tip of the LED, to make it easier to track.
Use something sturdy, yet flexible to attach to headset and adjustable for the lights. When in doubt, tape it. Center light should be positioned just below the ear for the most accurate tracking.
Included is an image for the USB circuit which would be about the same cost as a bicycle light, maybe less, if you recycle some obsolete electronics…ya, you know that big box in the bottom of the closet, from what decade was it now?
Experiment with the minimum and maximum point size tab, and the camera threshold adjustable setting for light sensitivity. Every camera is different. Works best in a dark room. Eliminate any reflective objects. Be sure to set the mode to 3 points clip. You should see 3 red dots light up, that turn to locking green when it is correct. If it sees any more or any less than 3 light sources, it will scramble.
Found a good FreeTrack [profile](https://www.dropbox.com/s/awq05mgo8pjub9p/Peace Falcon BMS Free Track profile2 . rar) that you can download and unzip into the profile folder of FreeTrack program.
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DIY Create Track IR Pro headset tracking lights for $15, rewiring a bicycle light.
Was reading how some were making their own DIY head tracking light sets, so i thought i would give that dusty graduation diploma from DeVry college some pay back…
Turns out it works.
The exact dimension specs seem to be important to the Track IR head set lights to work properly.
Currently i am using the FreeTrack software, that is a free open source program, that integrates with Track IR and is tested to work in Falcon.I had to dismantle and remove some of the LEDs, and in this model, i left 2 out(still works ok), and relocated 2 LEDs to wired positions.
I then ran the wires thru plastic straws, and soldered in place. Took me about 5 hours total, from research, to final testing.
Added a clip to it by modifying(bending) the clip wire. Simple attach to your headphone set or baseball cap.
You will need to learn how to calibrate the software to whatever camera you choose to use. Does not require an expensive webcam, $20 tops.
Takes a bit of repeat tweaking to get the software to suit you. 72nd VFM Virtual Fighter Wing has a page that can help you with the FreeTrack settings, but ultimately if you play around with the settings you will eventually get it to work. Every system camera is different, so tweaking is necessary.
Uses rechargeable batteries, rather than occupying a USB port or USB wall plug, although one could research that mod if they want.
One last tip…pay attention to where your hand is when you reach for that hot soldering iron. It will bite you hard and deep, long before you even realize it, and realize it you WILL. ha
And pay attention to the original LED wiring when you rewire them, as they only work one way. Test it before you solder it. Also use sand paper or a grinding wheel to grind down the round tip of the LED, to make it easier to track.
Use something sturdy, yet flexible to attach to headset and adjustable for the lights. When in doubt, tape it. Center light should be positioned just below the ear for the most accurate tracking.
Included is an image for the USB circuit which would be about the same cost as a bicycle light, maybe less, if you recycle some obsolete electronics…ya, you know that big box in the bottom of the closet, from what decade was it now?
Experiment with the minimum and maximum point size tab, and the camera threshold adjustable setting for light sensitivity. Every camera is different. Works best in a dark room. Eliminate any reflective objects. Be sure to set the mode to 3 points clip. You should see 3 red dots light up, that turn to locking green when it is correct. If it sees any more or any less than 3 light sources, it will scramble.
Found a good FreeTrack [profile](https://www.dropbox.com/s/awq05mgo8pjub9p/Peace Falcon BMS Free Track profile2 . rar) that you can download and unzip into the profile folder of FreeTrack program.
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Installed on a laptop, with dual extended screen output to 43" inch 4k screen
The Thinkpad T510 is a fairly powerful workstation laptop, with FHD 1920X1080p dual screen outputs, to a Vizio 43" inch 4K screen, @60Hz. The Vizio upscales FHD to 4K. The laptop chokes under full graphics settings, or rather, it stutters too much to play, but still, surprised it does as well as it does.
Running on a dual core i7 cpu of 2.67Ghz, Windows 7, 4 Gigs ram, 128 Gb SSD hardrive(a must).
Set the NVidia graphics card to performance, rather than quality. Turned off the shaders, turned off scaling, pulled back objects by 1, running BMS 4.32 at about 24Fps, now playable.
Still need to fix the pot for the throttle, but other than that, great to be back in the jet again.
The laptop screen is wide enough(13 inches) to attatch two Thrustmaster MFDs.
I will attempt to add more ram(8Gb) to see if that helps performance.
A newer Thinkpad T530 would easily handle Falcon BMS at full graphics settings, but be prepared to hand out $1500+ for it. An easy cockpit setup with MFD set up. And the 4k screen is an absolute must.
Maybe next year, some dual curved 65" inch 4k screens.
As for the flyboys and flygirls out there in the real jets, no doubt they consider themselves fortunate….loving every minute of every day flying, proving once and for all, that man really can fly…and save lives.