Hi, old user here. I was away from BMS when VR caught me. Gents, you’ve made such a good job! Out of the box it is so smooth and playable in VR that I found myself enjoying fast dogfight like in the old times just after setting axis and keybinds.
Congratulations and thank you very much!!!
Mr.Well
Nope. You could try: http://software.muzychenko.net/eng/vac.htm
It is the software I will use to push IVC into the headset/helmet. I haven’t tested it yet!
Same here. Still to test the hall potentiometer I have with those choices to see in what it works best
I did Uri’s adapter and it works great. Very easy circuit and soldering and super-cheap! Bodnar is much more expensive. For that just use Tusba 
Hi,
Arend and Uri on vipercore.nl (FCC home) are creating another solution for the standalone Cougar TQS.
It is near to be released.
FYI, also a solution for FCC3 on the Warthog base.
Cheers
Wrist and arm support…
Even with 1.0G they are needed
It works perfectly with cougar stick. You’ll just lose the CMS push function.
There are two ways of using FSSB3: with Warthog PCB or with Realsimulator one that is included. If you don’t have the Warthog you won’t be able to select its PCB but it’ll work perfectly with the other.
BTW, I don’t own it. It’s a friend of mine.
Cheers
Ok, great. I can send you my files. Send me a PM with email address, if you please.
Cheers
AFAIK, that is not posible. Some people wanted to do it to get a higher position for the head in the pit, and I didn’t see a solution for it. This is the same, I’m afraid.
BTW, I had the same feeling about the F18 HUD.
Cheers
I presume he talked about swapping from BMS extraction to MFDE only…
If I may ask. Why do you need that?.
I have two FullHD beamers on Eyefinity, so 3840x1080.
Cheers
Wow, could you elaborate what you have done to do it? Which system?
Cheers and thanks in advance
I’m afraid you should have done it before upgrading. As I learned from Revientor, with U1 installed, copy the whole folder (don’t rename it yet), install the U2 normally, rename the U1 to U2 and the copy to U1. Check and fix the shortcuts. You’re done.
Cheers
No, it doesn’t. You have to manually restart after that. That’s for online playing. Not needed for single player. Cheers
I have those carbon film pots for the thumbwheels. They are the lowest profile possible but hard to implement unless you have correctly designed wheels.
Cheers
Nice, then the screen on the first post is correct or are x & y sapped?
If you mean the yellow one that is loose from the other flat cable and coming from the base, it is attached to one of the three long screws that hold the grip in place, between the grip itself and the nut.(I think the one in the middle). I can’t remember if it was soldered to a washer or not.
I hope I explained myself good enough.
I opened a year ago…
Cheers
EDIT: the one in the middle shown here:
Actually it is very similar (maybe exactly the same) to the one in the cougar but that has an small PCB were it is soldered to.
Cheers
