I thought the menu resolution was fixed. The setting doesn’t change that. In-game resolution should be what you set it to.
The issue with BMS messing up your window sizes/positions has been an issue for a long time now. I haven’t found anything to stop it from happening.
The way I understand it, RNG and EDR are sort of opposites in some sense.
RNG tells you how fast to go at your altitude to maximize your range.
EDR tells you how fast to go at your altitude to maximize your flight time.
They are not necessarily the same thing, even though they might sound like it at first (maximum flight time does not equal maximum distance traveled). So basically, you want to use RNG when you want to end up with the most fuel upon arriving at a location, while you want EDR when you want the most loiter time around a location. As for HOME, it simply tells you the best way to get back home (or whatever steerpoint you end up selecting).
In the lift equation, r is the density of the air, not relative density. So, 500m altitude corresponds to 1.1673 kg/m^3 according to the Standard Atmosphere model. At sea level r = 1.23 kg/m^3. So right off the bat your value for r is a little bit off. But, doing the calculation with the correct density still gives something a fair bit off; I got L = 3.26e5 N
Assuming the mass and geometric properties used for the aircraft are correct (which, they seem to be), then the culprit must be in the assumed value of CL. I looked at the .dat file and I really have no idea the range of alphas these values of CL span, so I don’t know what alpha corresponds to the CL of 0.07, but it looks like you’d get quite the error if you just used one of the listed values instead of properly interpolating for the value you need. If you put the original expected value of lift back into the equation and solve for CL, I get CL = 0.031, which doesn’t sound unreasonable to me.
There are at least 3 different programs you could consider using: FreeTrack, FaceTrackNoIR, and OpenTrack. I’ve had at least some experience with all three, but I’ve only really used one for the most part.
You’ll want to stay away from FreeTrack outright, its an old program that hasn’t seen an update for a very long time and its got some quirks with the PS3 Eye and modern operating systems that make it prone to crashing, so it’s not worth trying to use it. This is the one I started out on and it was okay while I was still messing around with my set up and making it all work, but the constant random crashes was irritating and I moved onto a better solution.
FaceTrackNoIR is the one I personally use with my setup. I don’t recall having to do anything fancy to get the PS3 eye working with this one, but its been a while since I touched BMS so I could be wrong. Its got pretty much everything you’ll need for customizing your tracker, and its receiving updates, although kind of slowly last I remember. There’s also support for a ton of other kinds of tracking methods, in case you decide to switch in the future.
Actually, I didn’t know this until I just checked out their website, but FaceTrack is no longer free… they now charge 2.85 euros. Well, I guess its up to you to decide if it sounds worthwhile to purchase. I’m running an older version so I’m not sure exactly whats new in this version. But I can say the program does work well, and I like it.
OpenTrack is, as the name suggests, an open-source head tracking software. I’ll be honest, I have very limited use with this program, so my word may not be the most representative. From my experience in trying this quite some time ago, its pretty much an open-source version of FaceTrack; its got all the same features from what I can remember. I don’t know enough to say for sure how this differs from FaceTrack, but it is free and receiving updates at a good pace. Personally I had some issues in setting up my stuff using OpenTrack, and it just felt like my setup with FaceTrack was “better”. Plus I don’t play BMS very regularly, so it didn’t seem worth it to me to spend too much time trying to get OpenTrack working perfectly for me when I had a good enough setup with FaceTrack.
In any case, since FaceTrack is apparently no longer free, you may want to start off using OpenTrack and if you don’t like that, try out FaceTrack… or maybe see if you can find one of the older versions of FaceTrack that were free (I’m using 1.7). As a final note, I found that no matter what program I was using, it took a lot of tweaking the profile settings to get the head tracking motion to feel good.
Generally speaking no, but it depends on the joystick you have. I’ve got a T16000m set up with TARGET and an appropriate keyfile to do just this and it works wonderfully.
Yeah, after reading the key file manual it seems to be that way. Oh well. Right now, using Xpadder all the keys are working fine in BMS. I will have to poke the firmware code a little bit (actually a lot) to see if I can make those hat keys into regular keys. Should be doable, I’m just not very literate with programming and I won’t have the spare time to work on it for a little while. Also, I’d like to investigate a different arduino firmware I found to see if that’s a bit easier to work with. The installation looks more complicated but if it means less hassle with programming then I’ll take it.
Since I started this little project it was always my intention to release this stuff to the community. I have no use in keeping it to myself! But I thought I should have some solid proof of concept before showing you guys what I was working on. Once I iron out the kinks on the software side I’ll make a separate thread for this project.
I have a commercial software called Xpadder that I use for emulators and things. I think I could take the hat inputs and emulate keyboard commands (will try this later tonight). But my intentions for this project was for a completely plug-and-play controller, where no additional software is necessary to use it. Its just cleaner and easier for the end user if they don’t have to mess with additional software for what should be a straightforward, budget controller. But that’s just my opinion.
Truthfully, I have no plans on making a SSC. I already have a TM T16000m, and for the price it is a wonderful stick. It just has a terrible throttle and lack of hats. I pretty easily made up for the lack of hats using TARGET, so the only issue to tackle is a standalone throttle. In the end I personally will end up using Xpadder because my throttle will have 2 extra buttons that will emulate the shift and alt keys which is something I can’t do from the arduino (as far as I know). But, doing the SSC shouldn’t be all that different in terms of the software. You could either use another arduino uno, or if you want them to be one device you could look at the arduino mega, but I don’t have one of those so I wouldn’t be able to test it.
I am looking for a solution to do a metal casting on aluminum for the stick and throttle grips. Have found some pics from the ssc to start a 3d model, but not so much detailed
from the throttle….
That’s pretty ambitious. I’m not quite at the physical construction stage of my project, so I haven’t given it too much thought but it sounds kind of pricey for me. I was thinking of 3D printing as I don’t really care for construction quality, and I want this to be as low-cost as possible. As long as it doesn’t fall apart in my hand and works as it should, I’m not complaining. I’ve tried looking for a model of the cougar throttle as well, but no luck there. I was toying with the idea of just taking reference pictures of the throttle grip and trying to recreate it myself, but I’m not 100% sure on that one yet. Hoping maybe someone else in the community can help us out there.
Anyway, for the purposes of this thread I am still looking for an answer if I could somehow program the hat through BMS so it is recognized even though its on the secondary controller.
Hey gents, I am in the process of building my own throttle to emulate the functionality of a cougar throttle. I’m doing this by using an Arduino Uno running a USB HID firmware called UnoJoy, and so far its been exactly what I need. I recently bought the electronics needed and everything is hooked up and working fine in game…except for one little bump. The arduino takes 4 of the inputs as a hat switch. I figured this would be good for the comms switch on the throttle. Windows detects all the inputs fine, but I am having issues getting BMS to work correctly with this hat.
BMS does not accept inputs from this hat unless the arduino itself is selected as the main controller. Is there any way to program the hat so I can use it even though my joystick is the primary controller? All the other inputs work fine with the joystick as main controller, its just this hat that doesn’t function properly.
I can recommend the ps3eye alternative, it cost me less than $20 CAD off of amazon. I had a whole lot of fun making the LED array as well, and that was completely free - scavenged the LEDs and the battery compartment from old TV remotes. I did have to modify them so they had a larger viewing angle, but all that consisted of was filing down the rounded bits so it was completely flat.
But for what it is, it works very well. This was the first thing I did before I even started reading the documents for BMS, because of how heavily people were emphasizing the hands-free camera look. And those people were very right, I can’t imagine what it must be like to play without a head tracker.
Yep, sorry, my bad, the crosses are in fact red! I thought they were green cause Ive been messing with opentrack a bit and the crosses are green there!
I don’t actually own a delan clip - I built my own device which does the job as well as it needs to. But from looking at the pictures its roughly the same dimensions as what I’m using. Do the lights appear as big blobs or tiny dots in FTNoIR? I think what might be happening is, they are big blobs to the camera and when you look down the top 2 blobs merge into one big one, so the camera loses track.