Warthog works for only a few hours then ….
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Sorry to hear your stuck between a rock and a hard place.
I find it hard to believe two pots failed at the same time. Possibly a mechanical axis fail but more likely to be
analogue to digital processing fail.Only other thing I can think of is a firmware update/rewrite.
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yes Shadow you are correct,
that is what I think too.2 axis means 2 pots,
or more precisely, is it hall sensor?
do you guys know?
what exactly do TM use for z and rz axis? the usual potentiometer or hall sensor?why both of them can be broken together at the same time?
that what I asked TM, but no reply so far.the axis mechanic is still OK, I still can move both left and right throttle like before.
analog to digital processing?
which one is it?and I have already updated the firmware, but the problem remains.
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If its a pot or a hall device it changes the impedance (resistance) of a circuit, this is the “analogue” input.
The output of the Throttle is digital via its USB interface. Hence the internal analogue to digital processing in the Throttle body.I hope you have some better luck….
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After waiting for a week for their replies,
then another week exchanging emails,
finally TM shows its true face.This is their reply:
Kindly be informed that since you are located in Indonesia and the invoice is issue by a shop in Australia, the
manufacture warranty is not applied.
Also the potentiometer for the this device are not available as a spare part.
I have emailed them since Dec 3, 2014
and I told them since the beginning that I ordered it from PC Case Gear Australia.
And on my reply dated Dec 10, 2014
I have sent them the invoice and my Indonesian address.and they only replied:
Dec 9, 2014
Please provide us with a copy of the invoice for the device and a picture with the sticker placed at end of the USB cable
, so that we may know if we may assist you under warranty.
Dec 10, 2014
In this situation, the potentiometers for the axes appear to be defective.
Please provide us with a copy of the invoice for the device and a picture with the sticker placed at end of the USB cable
, so that we may know if we may assist you under warranty.
then they also asked:
Dec 11, 2014
Thank you very much for providing us with these details.
Please provide us with a video recording with the device while testing it, under game control panel.
Attached to this email you will find a document with the instructions on how to send us the video, once is done.
then:
Dec 12, 2014
Thank you for providing me with these details.
In this situation , we will send you new potentiometers for the X and Z axes of the device, so tyhat you may replace
them and fix this issue.
In order for us to do this please provide us with the following details:
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Your full name and postal address;
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A phone number where we may contact you.
then after I replied, today I get this:
Kindly be informed that since you are located in Indonesia and the invoice is issue by a shop in Australia, the
manufacture warranty is not applied.
Also the potentiometer for the this device are not available as a spare part.
In this situation, you will need to contact the store and ask for a replacement.
What a joke,
they should say from the beginning that they do not have the spare parts to spareand WTF is “manufacture warranty is not applied”?
if I am not under warranty they also should say so from the beginning.That is it.
I never buy anything with Thrustmaster brand anymore.TM should know that in the 1990s I bought CH Flightstick Pro in USA,
while I was studying there, then I brought it home to Indonesia.
After 3-4 years, the pots spiked, then I contacted CH Products,
then they send me the pots right away,
no questions asked and no charge.
That is what I called “good warranty and service”.Not like them,
after they asked for almost evertything:
the invoice, pictures of this and that, and please make video etcand in the end, they do not want to be held responsible,
hiding behind legal technicalities.what a waste of time.
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Call Thrustmaster and explain your case then. If you get the right people, and you can convince them you are taking responsibility for any further damage, they may mail you the replacement parts. I know its a different company from when they sent me replacement springs for my 2nd hand mark 1 stick in the 90s, but they do try. You won’t be able to get anywhere unless you either 1) have access to schematics or 2) open up the throttle and check for yourself. My guess is you have broken contacts from a weak solder job, or a disconnection. Good luck.
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manufacturers warranty does not apply outside the country of purchase - they might choose to cover it anyway, but its not actually an obligation.
In any event, going to the manufacturer is NOT typical repair/return process. You deal through the store you purchased it off. Buying a product from PC Case Gear in Australia means you are covered under the Australian Consumer Law as laid out in schedule 2 of the Competition and Consumer Act 2010. This means you have certain guarantees and warranties owed to you, by the store you purchased the goods/services from.
If there is a fault with the stick, unless you bought it from TM, its the retailer’s obligation to repair or replace it. Now, typically most retailers will replace goods which are faulty within a short period after purchase, and will repair goods after that time. In the case of the stick Id say they would be more likely to replace it anyway, but they do have the option.
Your -other- option, is to decide that you are definitely out of warranty, and try to repair the stick yourself. This was the option I had to go through for my cougar as I bought it second hand.
Again I would recommend going through the warranty option first.
Did try to warn you…
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Are you sure that the axis are not working when Target is NOT running? Because I am getting an error very similar to yours everytime my Script Editor is running and I have no idea how to fix it, besides shutting down Script Editor and then I see the axis again.
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no, it is not.
it seems only a coincidence that the axis won’t work after I install target.
I have tried to connect it to other system without installing target,
but now the axis won’t be detected at all.I have look at the inside, it seem there is no broken wires or bad soldering.
tm say the pots are bad, but to me what shadows wrote it’s more likely,
or bad board / components fried. -
today I read some post in other forum about a guy fixing his spiking warthog throttle by opening the right throttle handle.
and I have just realized that I have never opened that part.so out of curiosity, then I try opening the right throttle, looking for something unusual.
it turns out I can’t find any broken wires or anything, everything looks normal.so I put everything back together again.
and plug it into my system (again).at first everything looks exactly as before, z and rz axis don’t work, all the button works, axis x and y works.
but after I move the throttle for sometimes,suddenly z and rz axis GET DETECTED again.
however, they get detected only for a few seconds, then it is gone.
then I unplug and replug the throttle,
and it get detected again, but again only for a few seconds.I can repeat the process about 6 or 7 times,
now it won’t be detected at all.What do you think Guys?
does it seem like loose connection or wires? -
No
Fault in ic
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Thanks Shadow.
Do you know which IC?
Is it possible to change it? -
Most likely this one https://www.benchmarksims.org/forum/showthread.php?20657-warthog-works-for-only-a-few-hours-then&p=302887&viewfull=1#post302887
But as discussed before you needed to send it back, if not you will be replacing parts (if publicly available ) at your own risk. Unless you have the tools & knowledge to bench test the board correctly.
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Most likely this one.
But as discussed before you needed to send it back, if not you will be replacing parts (if publicly available ) at your own risk. Unless you have the tools & knowledge to bench test the board correctly.Same reply sorry, your voiding your warranty. And I will have no part in that.
By asking these questions it tells me the outcome is not going to be good.
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no, you misunderstand me.
I just want to know which is the most likely culprit here,
then I am going to contact TM again to ask them about the part.If they still won’t send it then I am going to tell them that I do not mind to buy it from them.
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Most likely but……
Every thing else is mechanical
Find the cables that originate at the pots and use a multimeter to test the changing impedance as you move the throttle. They are most likely HALL sensors and you may not have the equipment or experience to determine their performance, but as you did say you lost both left and right at the same time I would hazard a guess their OK.
Good luck you will need it.