If You Could Build A New Computer Just for Falcon BMS Right Now…
-
The SSD chosen is just fine. Good transfer rates on it. He was talking about your RAM for sure as 2133 is the slowest you could get. You could get like 3000 or 3200 and be fine. 3600 is good as well. I agree with both of Shadow’s comments. I’d suggest a bump to 23" or 24" on the monitor and somewhere between 3000-3600 for the memory. The 1080 will run a triple screen setup beautifully. Other than that the build looks good.
Cool, I think I can bump up to this monitor without breaking the bank:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jVJwrH/qnix-monitor-qx2710matte
So this is my build now, $2050, should do fine for my purposes:
-
@Cloud:
HAHA, while these guys, MortSile, Stubbies, Shadow, Ice know their stuff, sometimes it’s not a good idea to put how much you have to spend, especially when it’s a good amount like $2000 clams.
Actually, no. He did exactly the right thing by 1) posting a budget and 2) specifying what the PC will be expected to do.
Logitech MK550 - 44.99
and including an ultra cheap keyboard/mouse combo
I LOVE THIS KEYBOARD!! I’ve been using mine for 7 years now… had to replace the mouse (G700S now) but the keyboard rocks! Stubbies, BITE YOUR TONGUE AND WASH OUT YOUR MOUTH WITH SOAP!!! Your statement offends me!! Pistols at dawn!!
Cooler Master Elite Mid Tower Case w/ PS - 73.85
What case is this exactly? The 310? 311? 330U? The CoolerMaster website doesn’t even list this “Elite 350” under the Elite line but is rather all the way down the page…. classified as “Other”…
Also, way to go with proving your point here… you’re going to stick $1,500 worth of components into a case that looks like this?
Tell me, where exactly will you put your H100i which comes with a 276.00mm x 125.00mm x 30.00mm radiator? Will it even allow for the cooler backplate? Epic fail, man. Epic fail.
SanDisk 64GB SSD - 126.99
You’re recommending a 64GB SSD? I won’t even install Windows on a 120GB SSD!!
Post your build then? I found one that meets his criteria and mine, and can be used for other stuff besides gaming. A lot of other stuff.
“A lot of other stuff…” Yeah, like epic-high temps and a build experience that I won’t even wish on my worst enemy!
You could have had a nice Rig but settling for mediocre.
He blew his wad on a 140TDP chip, an expensive mobo, an overkill GPU for a 1080p monitor… but this isn’t even “mediocre.” This is KFC original recipe extra crispy all thanks to that budget case… if the PSU doesn’t explode first and takes everything with it… and this is even assuming the components can be successfully installed inside the case!
No one is saying that WC can’t beat big air. It certainly can. However it adds complexity/points of failure and cost to the build.
Big costs. The only thing that can really, REALLY beat a good aircooler is a custom watercooling setup with at least 2x 240mm rads. At that point, budget and bang-for-buck goes out the window… it’s like saying SLI setups beat single-GPU setups… sure, but at what cost? And what performance gain did you get for how much more $$$?
Cool, let me know if this link works, this is the modified build of the original one I posted in light of the new advice. Also includes everything else I’ll need to get it all up and running (meets my price point):
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/q4jThqNot a fan of this build.
CPU Cooler - check out reviews and prices for a Noctua NH-D15 or D15S. Newegg has it for around $88. Definitely worth the money.
RAM - get 2666MHz or better. You’ll want that when you OC.
Storage - not a fan of Adata or Hitachi. Samsung SSDs is the gold standard, and I’d go WD for storage. 1TB should be more than enough… if you need more, then this isn’t exactly a gaming rig, is it?
Case - for the price, I think you can get better cases with better fan options
Optical drive - do you really, really, REALLY, REALLY need this? You can install Windows via USB…
Wireless adapter - go wired connection if you can! Check out powerline adaptors and 10Gbit switches…
Monitor - 27"… and something that you can just buy another two of to get your triple-screen setup. At least 24" to start with…
KB/Mouse - not really a fan of “gaming” keyboards unless you’re playing professional online games against Koreans and Taiwanese
Speakers - might be better to invest in a headset that includes a mic… you know, for when you’re flying Falcon BMS in MP -
Here’s a suggested build:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bdyYGf- 7600K
- NH-D15
- GA-Z270X - $252 on the motherboard, but you could get cheaper options. What I’d suggest you look for in particular is 1) OC support, 2) LED diagnostics to show you which parts of your setup is failing, 3) M.2 NVMe support, and 4) enough SATA, USB, and other ports that you need… and at least a USB 3.0 header so that you can add a few more ports if you need to.
- DDR 4 2x8GB 3200MHz - excellent for OC
- 2x 850 SSDs - one for OS and programs, one for games. If you don’t have too many programs or if this is STRICTLY a gaming PC, you can do with 1x SSD.
- 1x 1TB 7200RPM HDD - short-stroke this one and get 200-350GB more storage for games.
- GTX 1070 8GB - VR ready, more than capable of running 3 screens, and the fans don’t spin unless the GPU is under load.
- Corsair Carbide 500R case - this is currently my case… but in black. I’ve been looking for a good replacement case for almost a year now and I’ve not found one that I like yet. This case has 2x 120mm fans in the front… and I’ve removed the 5.25 drive bay covers and placed a 140mm fan there too. It has a 200mm side fan and a 120mm rear fan, and space for 2x 120mm or 140mm fans on the top. I’ve popped a 140mm fan on the top for additional exhaust, but with 2x120, 1x140, 1x200 intake fans vs 1x120mm, 1x140mm exhaust, my case is under positive pressure. The lower 120mm fan blows air over my HDDs, the top 120mm fan blows air directly into the case (the HDD bays are removable), the 140mm fan supplies air to the Noctua cooler. The 200mm side fan ensures my GPU has more than enough fresh air, while the two exhaust fans makes sure that the hot air from the CPU cooler gets expelled as quick as possible.
- 650W 80+Gold - for the same price as your 550W… higher wattage ensures that you are at “peak performance” at max load of your system, which is usually around the 50% mark of the PSU’s rating.
- Windows 10 - Why not? Unless you really, really, REALLY want Win7 or Win8…. but stick to Win10 Anniversary Edition.
- 3x 27" Monitor - again, feel free to change this. Look for one with smaller bezels if possible…. You did say you wanted triple-screen!!
- KB/Mouse/Speakers - no sense in splurging for these. You’ll be simming anyway Splurge on a set of Cougar MFDs or a touchscreen instead!
The list comes down to $2167 or $2120 after rebates… I know, I know… it’s over budget… but this could easily be solved by going single-screen for now ($310 less right there!), going with just 1x SSD, or picking a cheaper motherboard that has the features you want.
-
So this is my build now, $2050, should do fine for my purposes:
Missed this build for some reason
Why buy a 6600K and put it in a Z270 board?
RAM… Not a fan of RGB at all. I don’t stare at my case, I stare at my monitors. I don’t impress my friends with my case lighting, I impress them with my triple-screen setup, touchscreens, voice commands, and TrackIR. Too busy with that to notice any case lighting.
That GPU is tiny… I would bet it runs hot… or loud… or both. Get a “proper-sized” 1080 if you wish.
2560x1440 monitor - excellent for a single-screen solution, but your GPU might struggle once you triple-screen this setup. -
I LOVE THIS KEYBOARD!! I’ve been using mine for 7 years now… had to replace the mouse (G700S now) but the keyboard rocks! Stubbies, BITE YOUR TONGUE AND WASH OUT YOUR MOUTH WITH SOAP!!! Your statement offends me!! Pistols at dawn!!
Only if I can reverse it and wash my mouth out with soap THEN bite my tongue.
Big costs. The only thing that can really, REALLY beat a good aircooler is a custom watercooling setup with at least 2x 240mm rads. At that point, budget and bang-for-buck goes out the window… it’s like saying SLI setups beat single-GPU setups… sure, but at what cost? And what performance gain did you get for how much more $$$?
Yeah guilty as charged as far as SLI goes. SLI is a serious mixed bag since it requires much love from the game and drivers for good implementation. My only self defense was there was nothing better at the time to upgrade to and it didn’t break my bank. Even being an SLI runner I wouldn’t try to defend it, or Titan video cards, on a price per dollar comparison as both are losing arguments.
-
Why buy a 6600K and put it in a Z270 board?
He wants to run Windows 7 and you cannot patch up Windows 7 with a Kaby Lake processor.
That GPU is tiny…. I would bet it runs hot… or loud… or both. Get a “proper-sized” 1080 if you wish.
I did notice that too in the naming but I didn’t get into the why of it. I also didn’t do any research to see if Tom’s Hardware or some of the other youtube sites I visit for hardware had anything to say about that specific card. If there isn’t a specific reason to want or need to have a small 1080 then probably best to get a normal one as technology being equal size does indeed matter for cooling.
2560x1440 monitor - excellent for a single-screen solution, but your GPU might struggle once you triple-screen this setup.
I have a buddy who runs triple screen from a GTX 1080 FE at 5760x1080 so I know for a fact that works great. Not sure how much of a hit would come from driving those extra pixels. Best for the OP to do some research before considering that to make sure it still works good.
-
Alright guys, thanks for all the help!
I have a premium account with newegg and a prime account with Amazon so I modified the list slightly to be able to purchase from just those two sources. I did indeed go with a i5-6600k and Windows 7.
I’ll post the details shortly. It all came out to about $2100.
-
Only if I can reverse it and wash my mouth out with soap THEN bite my tongue.
No, no, no. It has to be done in that order for maximum effect! Have you chosen your pistol and your second?
Yeah guilty as charged as far as SLI goes. SLI is a serious mixed bag since it requires much love from the game and drivers for good implementation. My only self defense was there was nothing better at the time to upgrade to and it didn’t break my bank. Even being an SLI runner I wouldn’t try to defend it, or Titan video cards, on a price per dollar comparison as both are losing arguments.
And here we have the caveat – if money wasn’t an issue, go and do whatever you please! At least you’re honest enough to admit to the downsides of your choice! I wish others were as honest…
He wants to run Windows 7 and you cannot patch up Windows 7 with a Kaby Lake processor.
So why Z270? Why not a Z170?
I have a buddy who runs triple screen from a GTX 1080 FE at 5760x1080 so I know for a fact that works great. Not sure how much of a hit would come from driving those extra pixels. Best for the OP to do some research before considering that to make sure it still works good.
My tests had Falcon running at around 40-50fps on my stress test TE… that’s a 980Ti at 5896x1080 so it is capable. While I’m sure that a 1080 or 1080Ti can drive a 7680x1440 setup, I don’t know if the framerates will be acceptable or similar. The only real way to know is to test… maybe it’ll work? Beefier GPU power driving more pixels…
I did indeed go with a i5-6600k and Windows 7.
I’ll post the details shortly. It all came out to about $2100.
Congrats on pulling the trigger!! Sometimes, that last part is the hardest!
Still curious as to why Win7? -
I went with Windows 7 since the TM Cougar HOTAS is supported better on it. The goal is to build it, install the software, and run it from first time on with no issues. I ended up going cheap on the mouse, speakers, and keyboard and got a better monitor. That way I can at least enjoy it until I figure out what I want to do with triple screen or VR. Total was $2126.80 tax and shipping (3 business days or less). I still have $40 of rebates to send in.
-
So for everyone’s convenience, this is what I went with only I didn’t pay quite as much for the Windows 7 software and I bought some bargain bin keyboard, mouse, and speakers from Amazon.
Let me know if this link works for public usage:
-
No, no, no. It has to be done in that order for maximum effect! Have you chosen your pistol and your second?
Well if I am forced to name em then I will go with my Kimber .45 ACP primary and my Glock .40 S&W backup. Good enough?
And here we have the caveat – if money wasn’t an issue, go and do whatever you please! At least you’re honest enough to admit to the downsides of your choice! I wish others were as honest…
Indeed. If money isn’t an issue then you can just pick the best that happens to be most expensive as well and everyone is happy. However most people don’t have that kind of coin to drop on a rig so you get the expectation and the budget and make things fit the best you can.
So why Z270? Why not a Z170?
I’d hafta wonder about if there was a price differential between the two chipsets. If they are in the neighborhood to each other it just opens the door for him to go Kaby Lake later if he so desires.
My tests had Falcon running at around 40-50fps on my stress test TE… that’s a 980Ti at 5896x1080 so it is capable. While I’m sure that a 1080 or 1080Ti can drive a 7680x1440 setup, I don’t know if the framerates will be acceptable or similar. The only real way to know is to test… maybe it’ll work? Beefier GPU power driving more pixels…
I cannot say for certain as I don’t know anyone with that setup. The 1080Ti will definitely have an easier time of it than a 1080. Heck the Ti is more powerful in games than my SLI Titan setup.
-
So for everyone’s convenience, this is what I went with only I didn’t pay quite as much for the Windows 7 software and I bought some bargain bin keyboard, mouse, and speakers from Amazon.
Let me know if this link works for public usage:
Link works.
+1 to the SSD, RAM, GPU and monitor changes.
Why two optical drives?
-
That looks a lot better.
Be aware GPU prices have been push high be Currency Miners the last month or so.
Apparently the bottom has dropped out of the price, so there may well be a flood of the second hand GPU for sale soon.
New card price will fall back to sensible levels also
My AMD MSI480 I paid $370au a few months ago, was selling last week for Just under $600 is now @ $499.monitor the price there for a few days.
PS: I see the order is in !
-
I was going to tell u the same about the keyb and mouse.
The wireless card also i would ditch it.
Nice u changed the vga from zotac.
Also the Blue ray recorder i would ditch.
So ditching those either save the money or kill’em on a more amps per line PSU.In general about radiators cases ambient room temp etc… my psu is outside my case, my radiators and water pump r outside my case.
Its there to stay and for a purpose. Except the hdds affecting temp in the area of GPU cpu chipset the rest are on full ambient room temp xposure.
Happy camper like that for 5+years now… it could be much more…
My water block is from 775 era. On stock intel air on 4.5Ghz temps where crazy going up to 80.
Now on a crazy hot day it goes at 55.
Maybe on a new good air solution things would be better, but since it works its fine. And i totally dislike those monster huge (i’ll break your mobo) coolers.
I had a semifat once and had to remove it first whenever i wanted to do or change things in there. So nope stock cooler and lower speed for me than those monsters.
At the bottom line doing a quick search u can built a way more effective wc solution by pumps from fish tanks and all bought separetly. The money u save u can buy a suberb water block for the cpu or an extension for the vga.
And i laugh hard with the solutions with radiators in the case on the top area. As and with psu’s on the bottom area.sent from my mi5 using Tapatalk
-
Link works.
+1 to the SSD, RAM, GPU and monitor changes.
Why two optical drives?
Oh I forgot to delete that Pioneer. If you look on the actual order invoices you’ll see I just went with the basic optical drive. Try the link again: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/xcraftllc/saved/MrbqsY
I was going to tell u the same about the keyb and mouse.
The wireless card also i would ditch it.
Nice u changed the vga from zotac.
Also the Blue ray recorder i would ditch.
So ditching those either save the money or kill’em on a more amps per line PSU.In general about radiators cases ambient room temp etc… my psu is outside my case, my radiators and water pump r outside my case.
Its there to stay and for a purpose. Except the hdds affecting temp in the area of GPU cpu chipset the rest are on full ambient room temp xposure.
Happy camper like that for 5+years now… it could be much more…
My water block is from 775 era. On stock intel air on 4.5Ghz temps where crazy going up to 80.
Now on a crazy hot day it goes at 55.
Maybe on a new good air solution things would be better, but since it works its fine. And i totally dislike those monster huge (i’ll break your mobo) coolers.
I had a semifat once and had to remove it first whenever i wanted to do or change things in there. So nope stock cooler and lower speed for me than those monsters.
At the bottom line doing a quick search u can built a way more effective wc solution by pumps from fish tanks and all bought separetly. The money u save u can buy a suberb water block for the cpu or an extension for the vga.
And i laugh hard with the solutions with radiators in the case on the top area. As and with psu’s on the bottom area.sent from my mi5 using Tapatalk
Do you think that will be necessary on my setup? I’m not planning on OCing or anything for now.
-
I went with Windows 7 since the TM Cougar HOTAS is supported better on it.
Fair enough!
Do you think that will be necessary on my setup? I’m not planning on OCing or anything for now.
What will “be necessary”??
I’d hafta wonder about if there was a price differential between the two chipsets. If they are in the neighborhood to each other it just opens the door for him to go Kaby Lake later if he so desires.
Well, over here, they’re around the same price range… I did think about future upgrade issues but unless he wants to upgrade within the next 2 years, I reckon the CPU development will have a new chip and socket config after that rendering the “upgrade to Kaby” useless.
-
Do you think putting the power supply on the outside would do anything if all I was doing was running that setup on the stock clock speed?
-
you don’t need to do anything special, as long as you have extraction fans at the rear/top and maybe some intake fans, that will be more then enough.
I have OC every CPU I have owned since the 80s and keeping air flowing through the case is the basis of good cooling.
And if your not OCing its a no brainer.
Also PSU adds to the air extraction. Keep it where it is meant to go.
-
Well, over here, they’re around the same price range… I did think about future upgrade issues but unless he wants to upgrade within the next 2 years, I reckon the CPU development will have a new chip and socket config after that rendering the “upgrade to Kaby” useless.
So even if the Kaby Lake upgrade doesn’t happen if the 170 and 270 chipset boards are the same price then I just flip the question and say why not Z270?
-
Do you think putting the power supply on the outside would do anything if all I was doing was running that setup on the stock clock speed?
No need. You can mount your PSU “upside down” so that it takes air from UNDER the case and blows it out the back… so it’s totally separate airflow from the rest of your case.
So even if the Kaby Lake upgrade doesn’t happen if the 170 and 270 chipset boards are the same price then I just flip the question and say why not Z270?
That’s what I’m asking… is there something on the Z270 that isn’t on the Z170?