Questions about warthog and F4 BMS
-
I’m currently saving money to buy TrackIR 5 and CH pro pedals for the DCS Huey. Later on I would like to buy a good throttle and stick for DCS and F4 BMS.
1. How compatible is the TM Warthog with F4 BMS?
2. Does its throttle have detents like the cougar did? (I would like an accurate throttle especially for mid-air refueling, my assumption of detents is that they’re notches that let you know that you’ve moved the throttle forwards or backwards one step).
3. Will I need any software provided by TM to configure my controls or can I do it in the game? (Are profiles used for this purpose?)
4. What are the dimensions for the bases of both the throttle and stick? (I need to make some changes to my PC table).
-
Save the money for edtracker instead of trackir.
-
1. How compatible is the TM Warthog with F4 BMS?
2. Does its throttle have detents like the cougar did? (I would like an accurate throttle especially for mid-air refueling, my assumption of detents is that they’re notches that let you know that you’ve moved the throttle forwards or backwards one step).
3. Will I need any software provided by TM to configure my controls or can I do it in the game? (Are profiles used for this purpose?)
4. What are the dimensions for the bases of both the throttle and stick? (I need to make some changes to my PC table).
1- fully.
2 - Yes. One for STOP -IDLE, one for AB. This one is not in by default, but you can add it very easily, everything is included. Not a notch, you have to lift the throttle to pass the detent.
3 - Depends what you want to do.
If you just plug it, you will have two DX devices, and there, you can assign buttons in BMS setup. I advise you to get to know how to modify your keybind file manually though.
If you want to do more advanced stuff*, you can use a TARGET (TM’s software) script file. Morphine’s profile is an excellent base to build on.4 - Stick has a metal plate removable of approx 30cm X 25 cm. If you remove it, you are left with the cylinder just below the stick, approx 12 cm of diameter. IIRC, you can screw it to something to have a custom mount.
Throttle is approx 30cm X 20cm.
For the exact dimensions, Google is your friend*By advanced, I mean that you can add shift layers, define custom actions for short/long presses, etc…. If you know how to program a bit, you can even do more. I dont have pedals, for example, I manage rudder and differential braking with my HOTAS directly.
-
1- fully.
2 - Yes. One for STOP -IDLE, one for AB. This one is not in by default, but you can add it very easily, everything is included. Not a notch, you have to lift the throttle to pass the detent.
3 - Depends what you want to do.
If you just plug it, you will have two DX devices, and there, you can assign buttons in BMS setup. I advise you to get to know how to modify your keybind file manually though.
If you want to do more advanced stuff*, you can use a TARGET (TM’s software) script file. Morphine’s profile is an excellent base to build on.4 - Stick has a metal plate removable of approx 30cm X 25 cm. If you remove it, you are left with the cylinder just below the stick, approx 12 cm of diameter. IIRC, you can screw it to something to have a custom mount.
Throttle is approx 30cm X 20cm.
For the exact dimensions, Google is your friend*By advanced, I mean that you can add shift layers, define custom actions for short/long presses, etc…. If you know how to program a bit, you can even do more. I dont have pedals, for example, I manage rudder and differential braking with my HOTAS directly.
Thanks.
-
-
doubt it. trackir 5 is great.
-
Is it better than TrackIR?
It is a lot cheaper and works in any light condition. But it is only 3 axis…
-
3 axis seems like enough, but those other three axis (tilt, vertical position, and horizontal position) while not crucial, add more to the experience than one would think
-
3 axis seems like enough, but those other three axis (tilt, vertical position, and horizontal position) while not crucial, add more to the experience than one would think
Question is this worth 200 EUR instead of 25 EUR? I have a track clip pro and a ps3 eye cam. So I have almost the same solution as trackir but ed tracker feels more comfortable and has a better resolution. Furthermore I can move more freely and my neck doesn’t hurt after a while.
-
Question is this worth 200 EUR instead of 25 EUR? I have a track clip pro and a ps3 eye cam. So I have almost the same solution as trackir but ed tracker feels more comfortable and has a better resolution. Furthermore I can move more freely and my neck doesn’t hurt after a while.
to me? yes. but believe me, i considered the lesser cost options for a good while. the misses wasnt necessarily on the same page as me on the whole “let’s go out and buy a bunch of flight sim gear!” should have seen her when she saw the warthog price tag.
but once i got used to trackir, i can imagine not have having those axis.
for instance, if something in front of you, say your flight lead, passes behind the walls of your hud , you can just move your head to the left/right to see it. also, when turning, especially in dogfights, it becomes indispensable in my opinion. being to able to actually turn around, lean to get a better view, to crane your neck to the horizontal when your jet is banking, to look around your legs in the pit if you have the leg mod….all of these things add up in the experience for me and are WELL worth the price of trackir, and more, to be honest. in hindsight i might have paid $500 if i had to. -
The problem with TIR is losing tracking optically. The problem with inertial solution (ED) is drift without absolute optical reference. The answer of course is to combine the two inputs blended so if your cat moves in front of TIR camera it switches briefly to inertial until it can see the camera again. Then apply transform calibration so camera can be off-axis to sensor. Of course inertial sensor is 6DOF. Maybe multiple cameras. Wavelength/pulse coded IR beacons. Multiple inertial units for differential acceleration sensing. You know, good stuff.
-
well, when we go into VR, all these get solved
one day.
for now though, mine is up high on my monitor. if my cat flew passed it, i’d have bigger things to worry about than my BMS head tracking. i’ve never lost tracking or had any issues with it whatsoever. but im not facing a window or bright lights.
-
well, when we go into VR, all these get solved
one day.
for now though, mine is up high on my monitor. if my cat flew passed it, i’d have bigger things to worry about than my BMS head tracking. i’ve never lost tracking or had any issues with it whatsoever. but im not facing a window or bright lights.
1. Can I have an energy saver bulb behind me and not pointed directly at me or the TIR sensor?
2. Also during the day can I draw the curtains from one side to let some light pass through? Will TIR 5 still work? -
if you have any direct light coming from outside then its gonna mess up TIR.
-
I use the energy saver bulbs and have zero issue with TIR5 tracking. As for the window, as long as you don’t get direct light on the receiver, it “shouldn’t” cause an issue. I have a window that shines in my room and have no issues with that either.
-
if you have any direct light coming from outside then its gonna mess up TIR.
I crank IR filtering on TIR5 to maximum and I have not had any problem with stray IR energy. I don’t have a light bulb directly behind me though. Proclip IR lights are very strong so with maximum threshold it is still seen very clearly.
-
thanks guys.
-
I use the energy saver bulbs and have zero issue with TIR5 tracking. As for the window, as long as you don’t get direct light on the receiver, it “shouldn’t” cause an issue. I have a window that shines in my room and have no issues with that either.
this.
my window and light arent directly pointed at it.
here’s my room: -
I don’t see your layout having a problem with interference from external light sources for track ir
-
you can see in the track ir screen if there is any interference, instead of the three reflective tags (or 3 LEDs if using the pro clip), any blobs you see on the screen represent additional light interference.
ve only seen it once, when i had a highly reflective frame behind me and several lights blaring on it.