DIY wireless IR Tracker
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As I just switch to a wireless Headset (steelseries arctis 7) it was time to swap my DIY USB powered wired IR Headtracker with a wireless version.
Requirement I gave to myself
Max Weight: 50g
Size: “smaller than my current wired one”
min play time: 6h
Recharge : usb microParts used
3x OSARAM SHF485p IR (Fv: 1,5V If: 100mA running at 40mA in the circuit) 3€
1 x TP4056 USB charging extension board with Overcharge and Overdischarge Protection 2€
1 x 15 Ohm 1/4W resistor some cent
1 x 47 Ohm 1/4W resistor some cent
1 x 1000mAh 3.7V Lipo (0,5C/0,5C) 14€
small piece of breadboard some cent
2x Dupont connector smoe cent
1 x Micro on of switch 0,4€
Housing 3d printedoverall cost approx 20€
setup: only had to change dimension in Opentrack and run a single pitch yaw calibration, rest of my profile is untouched
Thats’ what came out
overall weight including top lid : 49g :nod: wired one was 84g including the USB cable and 24g without
smaller, see pic below. :nod: That the smallest I can go (distance between IR Diodes) with a distance to cam of approx 100cm using the full 80° beam of the IR without loosing track
with the 100mAh Lipo battery I get at least 8h with 2,5h of recharge time. :nod:
rechargeable with micro USB and indicator when fully loaded :nod:new vs old
ingame usage
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Nice job Oak
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Nice work! Much better than mine. And looks like a whole lot lighter. Mine is a machined aluminum housing with carbon fiber sides. The arms are stainless steel gauge tubing. Thought about battery power but went with usb instead. Would you mind sharing your Opentrack profile?
Thanks Dave
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Nice work! Much better than mine. And looks like a whole lot lighter. Mine is a machined aluminum housing with carbon fiber sides. The arms are stainless steel gauge tubing. Thought about battery power but went with usb instead. Would you mind sharing your Opentrack profile?
Thanks Dave
My Opentrack profile
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fOON5n8qePB8OPBCIKcc3XSvw7cRSQPi/view?usp=sharingAs I do 3d printing for quite a long time about rigidity. So my old wired one dropped at least a dozen time with the headset from the table to the floor without breaking therefore no need to go for any metal housing or clip. And even if it breaks replacement is printed in less than an hour
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Very awesome! Well done, man! What 3D printer do you have? (and would you recommend it?)
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Very awesome! Well done, man! What 3D printer do you have? (and would you recommend it?)
I started with an Anet A8 as that was the cheapest set I could get at that time.
Meanwhile I completely have build 2 printers on my own. One is Prusa I3 style and another a Hevo Style all based around 20x40 40x40 Typ-I aluminium Extrusions, 32 bit Controller boards, TMC drivers.Basically in the ready to print consumer market it depends how much you are willing to spend.
In the 200-500€/$ range go for a Creality Ender Series 3, 3 Pro or 5 or one of the new derivatives with TMC drivers.
If money doesn’t matter that much and you want to have the best consumer grade printer which covers all up to date features and you are willing to spend > 800$/€ my only recommendation is the Prusa i3 mk3sLast thing to mention if you are looking for a 3d printer to make very small highly detailed objects. (Think of stuff like 28mm table top miniatures) out might better go with a resin based SLA printer than one of the above filament based FDM printers.
Just as a last note like with all tinkering stuff it highly depends on the operators skill set. But in 3d printing even more.
With my cheapo 120€ first entry printer and gaining some skill I was able to follow the Rep Rap philosophy and replicate new printer by using another one.
The 2 Im using right now could be called workshop tools.Gesendet von meinem SM-G930F mit Tapatalk
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Wow oak, you are one skilled dude, good job
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I must add to the hot list
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While cleaning up my desk found these pads that came with my desk lamp for inductive charging.
Hm I now rethink of reprinting my IR tracker housing and integrate the pad to the housing in that case I would not even need a cable for recharging -
Nice work. Mine is even smaller, lighter and simpler (that was before I had access to 3D printing):
That’s an AA battery housing glued to a board. Under the tape are three old Russian resistors. I used one of these large paperclips to hold the LEDs. It doesn’t have any electronics, not even an off switch. Won’t win any beauty contests, but it works just fine.
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when does the
sweatshop
get set up @Oakdesign to flood the market? :bdance:nice job btw.:drink:
John.