TQS Cursor double pot drifting: known fixes for this?
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Damn, I got some of the boards on the way (thanks Red Dog), but need a ministick. The eBay listing is no longer available I guess it was just one…
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Hey man! Do you have 5 ministicks or you are planning a microstick hall sensor mod that fits on it like those interesting mechanics on TQS!:D
I do have 5 ministicks spare parts, but I need them for other purpose.
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Hello
Anyone have bought one? cause Russia, i’m a little affraid lol
Thanks
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Hello
Anyone have bought one? cause Russia, i’m a little affraid lol
Thanks
I bought one - no problems at all. Took about 2 weeks to arrive in Austria….
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Hi Everybody!
I just read that the ministick of a XBOX360 controller would fit…
Can somebody confirm that? Or will other mini sticks fit?Reuse
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Like a lot of people, I was experiencing major drifting of the cursors on the TQS.
I am using a modified TQS with HAL sensor and also a TUSBA R2 - I found that I could not get the Realsimulator software to rectify the drift problem, I’m on Win 10 and cannot use the game controllers applet.
However
The solution that worked for me in cancelling out any\all cursor drift is to download a program called DIView.
DIView allows you to calibrate your controllers.
Download DIView here http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/download/DIView.exe
Right click on the relative windows for x and y microstick axes then select show raw data, this will show values in red.
Move the axis to its extremes and note the figures in red - I used these figures and found the average, I then input these figures into the field boxes that open when I right click and select calibrate.
Microstick is now working as if it were brand new.
Hope you find this helpful
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Like a lot of people, I was experiencing major drifting of the cursors on the TQS.
I am using a modified TQS with HAL sensor and also a TUSBA R2 - I found that I could not get the Realsimulator software to rectify the drift problem, I’m on Win 10 and cannot use the game controllers applet.
However
The solution that worked for me in cancelling out any\all cursor drift is to download a program called DIView.
DIView allows you to calibrate your controllers.
Download DIView here http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/download/DIView.exe
Right click on the relative windows for x and y microstick axes then select show raw data, this will show values in red.
Move the axis to its extremes and note the figures in red - I used these figures and found the average, I then input these figures into the field boxes that open when I right click and select calibrate.
Microstick is now working as if it were brand new.
Hope you find this helpful
Can you share the process?
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I fixed my drifting by disassembling the throttle and removing the pot and taking it apart then cleaning each part in rubbing alcohol then put it all back together. It works better now! The pot drift can happen from the dust that collects inside.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Like a lot of people, I was experiencing major drifting of the cursors on the TQS.
I am using a modified TQS with HAL sensor and also a TUSBA R2 - I found that I could not get the Realsimulator software to rectify the drift problem, I’m on Win 10 and cannot use the game controllers applet.
However
The solution that worked for me in cancelling out any\all cursor drift is to download a program called DIView.
DIView allows you to calibrate your controllers.
Download DIView here http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/download/DIView.exe
Right click on the relative windows for x and y microstick axes then select show raw data, this will show values in red.
Move the axis to its extremes and note the figures in red - I used these figures and found the average, I then input these figures into the field boxes that open when I right click and select calibrate.
Microstick is now working as if it were brand new.
Hope you find this helpful
This is awesome!!
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It’s in the post.
I mean the red numbers. Did you use the red at both ends of the axis for getting the average?
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I mean the red numbers. Did you use the red at both ends of the axis for getting the average?
Sorry, yes. Separately on each axis move the axis to each of its limits and note the red numbers at each max and min position, these should be input in the max and min fields in the calibration applet, then average between the red numbers to get the centre, again input this in the centre field of the calibration applet.
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Sorry, yes. Separately on each axis move the axis to each of its limits and note the red numbers at each max and min position, these should be input in the max and min fields in the calibration applet, then average between the red numbers to get the centre, again input this in the centre field of the calibration applet.
Thanks. Did you do this for the Z Axis as well or just the microstick?
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Thanks. Did you do this for the Z Axis as well or just the microstick?
Only the microstick, my Z axis reports 98.5% and 0.05% or 64574 and 32 so, no need and Z rotation is on a HAL sensor so, again, no need.
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Only the microstick, my Z axis reports 98.5% and 0.05% or 64574 and 32 so, no need and Z rotation is on a HAL sensor so, again, no need.
Thanks
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I’m still experience stick drift. For me I am using a leobonard board and a delta sim microstick. Any thoughts?
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I’m still experience stick drift. For me I am using a leobonard board and a delta sim microstick. Any thoughts?
Have you tried adjusting\increasing your dead zones etc in game, under controllers > advanced > avionics.
Not being familiar with LeoBodnar boards and not knowing what, if any control software it might have, I can’t suggest anything further other than increasing the dead zones in game, there maybe some adjustments under windows game controllers applet, but again, I’m not familiar with it as my TUSBA etc is supplied with it’s own dedicated HID software that allows calibration and dead zone adjustment, my TQS has the original microstick, the only internal change I made was the throttle pot, upgraded to a HAL sensor, the TUSBA converts the TQS into a standalone USB device providing 12 bit resolution for much better accuracy. This is why the red raw values in DiViewer are used for calibration as the black values represent a windows standard which I believe are problematic for calibrating through the original gameport connector or it’s a precedence issue that windows generally wins, my memory is hazy on this but the solution for me and many others was TUSBA.
In the event you might be interested, here’s the link to Realsimulators TUSBA https://realsimulator.com/tusba/ I can’t recommend their products highly enough for getting a second life and better overall control of your original Cougar setup.
Sorry I can’t be of much more help but please, keep us updated and let us know if changing your deadzones helped, there may well be people in the future looking for a solution.
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Have you tried adjusting\increasing your dead zones etc in game, under controllers > advanced > avionics.
Not being familiar with LeoBodnar boards and not knowing what, if any control software it might have, I can’t suggest anything further other than increasing the dead zones in game, there maybe some adjustments under windows game controllers applet, but again, I’m not familiar with it as my TUSBA etc is supplied with it’s own dedicated HID software that allows calibration and dead zone adjustment, my TQS has the original microstick, the only internal change I made was the throttle pot, upgraded to a HAL sensor, the TUSBA converts the TQS into a standalone USB device providing 12 bit resolution for much better accuracy. This is why the red raw values in DiViewer are used for calibration as the black values represent a windows standard which I believe are problematic for calibrating through the original gameport connector or it’s a precedence issue that windows generally wins, my memory is hazy on this but the solution for me and many others was TUSBA.
In the event you might be interested, here’s the link to Realsimulators TUSBA https://realsimulator.com/tusba/ I can’t recommend their products highly enough for getting a second life and better overall control of your original Cougar setup.
Sorry I can’t be of much more help but please, keep us updated and let us know if changing your deadzones helped, there may well be people in the future looking for a solution.
I will but trying to figure it out.
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I will but trying to figure it out.
Maybe this will help?
Also, DiView is the calibration software that LeoBodnar boards provide as per this link http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=page&id=12 so, you’ve got everything you need.