Cougar & Realsimulator update
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Keep in mind that a Cougar or WH grip has far fewer switch positions on it than the RealSim grip - not having seen how the two grips show up, I can’t say what will be there and what will not. But the software will only show what is available for the grip you are using - check the Documentation - it shows the rig with a WH grip installed. And be sure to use the firmware version for BMS.
I did try the BMS firmware and had the same issue. I am not getting any response on windows which must happen before any in game adjustments. For example the trigger red circle doesn’t get lit when I press on it. Let me send you a picture.
edit: OK I got it man, it was the cougar, it wasn’t mounted firmly on the FSSB R3L. Thank you very much for the responses Stevie
edit2: by the way the newest firmware is MJF_FW_F16-18_4_00_0 and it should work with FSSB R3L and will have the BMS features.
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I have to ask for help now because I went through user guide step by step to make the BMS Sample key file but in the control panel under setup in BMS it still says “no key assigned” what do I have to do to load a file that can be recognized. This used to be very easy with foxy but I guess FSSB R3 is not utilizing foxy.
Edit: Ok I am now programing the HOTAS manually and loaded the BMS FULL profile. I guess it’s not that bad since the number of keys on the stick & throttle is not that much. I’ll try to fly tonight and see how it goes.
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Yes - Foxy only works for the Cougar PCB.
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Yes - Foxy only works for the Cougar PCB.
say Stevie do you know how to program a combination of key , say like I want pinky + MSL to open refuel door and press the same thing to be close door
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say Stevie do you know how to program a combination of key , say like I want pinky + MSL to open refuel door and press the same thing to be close door
I think you have to do this as a macro…yes, see page 106 of the manual. You build the macro and then assign the macro to a key/button, then assign that key/button in BMS Setup.
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BTW - here’s an example of what I was talking about concerning stick wobble with the FSSB R3, and FCC3, or any force sensing controller base used with a Cougar or Warthog grip (there are lots of such user observations out there, if you look for them) -
Note that when he’s saying that the “the stick is crap”, he’s talking about the grip and not the FSSB R3. This is because of the metal the grip is made from…it’s soft and will wear over time, and the amount of time that takes will depend on the pilot. Note his very simple solution with the Lego bricks - such adds support and stops the wobble. Dunno if you were to do this right off the bat that it would eliminate the problem forever, but it’s something to consider.
Then there are also more elegant solutions out there like this -
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114647
Personally, I like the 3D printed collars best - and if you have a 3D printer they are easy enough to make/print, and I think I’ve also seen these out there that are for use with the angled grip adapter. Frankly though, I think one could also nicely make one of these supports by sawing up a plastic medicine bottle or chunk of PVC pipe. Highly suggested in order to increase/maintain the useful life of your grip. It’s a simple installation - just insert the support and screw the mounting ring up against it, and you’re solid.
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the wobble is not a bad feature in fact I prefer it. The real F-16 does have the wobble option for the pilot’s convenience but of course they can set it to zero.
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Actually, the RL stick does not “wobble” - it has about 1/8" inch of movement built into it (as I recall) and “clicks”…sort of. I know from the people that have real SSCs in their cockpit builds and have demo’d the units that you can hear an audible “clunk” at the travel limits. But the grip itself is firmly and stably attached to the SSC core and provides control input throughout the movement. As opposed to the situation here, where the result is a distracting movement that provides no control input until the grip is actually loaded.
…which I’m certain will mess with you during AAR.
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I’ll try to send you a clip of a pilot’s hand which seems to be moving during the formation.
edit: I cannot include a video clip because it asks for a URL but I have it as saved copy
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I placed a wooden piece in the place that the video specified and I have to say it did make refueling possible.
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I’ll try to send you a clip of a pilot’s hand which seems to be moving during the formation.
edit: I cannot include a video clip because it asks for a URL but I have it as saved copy
Yes - I fully believe and understand that the stick moves some in the RL jet, but you’re missing the point about how that stick works vs how our setups work. The pilot is making control inputs during that movement. In our case the movement is only slop with no input until the stick is loaded…this is a real problem for making fine control inputs as you will either over or under control the initial input.
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I placed a wooden piece in the place that the video specified and I have to say it did make refueling possible.
Interesting…so it sounds like your grip is slightly worn already. I plan to make a support out of PVC pipe for my own setups. Unless I get a 3D printer first.
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flight is very sharp with the realsim stick, it’s like first days of hall sensors. One thing I find a bit annoying about the radar cursor, while the y-axis does what it used to with cougar the x-axis does not. It goes to the left when I press down, is there a way of making it go to the right for down motion of the microstick? also the cursor is a bit too slow how can we increase it’s speed?
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The RealSim software will allow you to invert axes if needed - just check the box for it. You may also need to re-calibrate your Cursor using the Windows Control Panel and the RealSim software - I recall having to do some “dancing” between the two on my first go round, but what I got in the end is rock solid and I love it; plus it’s hard to get full deflection on the Cursor by simply moving it through x and y individually. I always rotate it in a full circle against the cup to insure I capture the endpoints of travel. Look at the manual under “Manually configure Raw Axes” - you can shorten the endpoints and make it faster/more sensitive there. My Cursor is set up to up/down/left/right wrt the display.
The TUSBA gives you some real power and control over your setup - study the manual, there’s good info in there!
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how does the real pilot resets the trim ? is there a realistic key combination? there should because this is one of the things that should be at his figertips
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I noticed if I download the firmware then in the tool macro is an option but once I close and reopen the tool the macro (and many others) is no longer an option as in being unclickable!
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how does the real pilot resets the trim ? is there a realistic key combination? there should because this is one of the things that should be at his figertips
Not always…I know some jets that have the ability to reset Trim, and a lot more that don’t. One of them I know of can effectively “reset Trim” by engaging and cancelling BALT Hold on the Autopilot. I even know of one that can only reset/zero Trim in the pitch axis.
What I do is to use a double click on the NWS button (red one on the side) to command BMS Trim Reset/zero (there is a key command for it)…good a guess as any. I also use a double click on CMS->dwn to toggle my Trim hat between Trim and POV functions…like with shift keys, effectively. CMS->dwn makes a great shift key on the WH stick because it’s not used for any basic Viper HOTAS.
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I noticed if I download the firmware then in the tool macro is an option but once I close and reopen the tool the macro (and many others) is no longer an option as in being unclickable!
Make sure you’re loading the MJF_FW_F16_SG_3 Firmware, or later.
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Make sure you’re loading the MJF_FW_F16_SG_3 Firmware, or later.
you must be connecting the FSSB-R3 with a RS F16SGRH grip because per the manual only that arrangement will enable the macro +other options. But if it’s FSSB-R3 with a TM compatible grip then the macro+other options will be grayed out and not clickable (pages 85-86). This is regardless of the firmware. I think I do have the latest firmware which by the recommendation of the manual it is “MJF_FW_F16-F18_4_xx_x.FSSB_R3” for the FSSB-R3 Lighting. The x’s will be either 0 or 1 or 2. I might have to save a file (page eighty eight)because it is the wierdest thing that once I download a firmware all options are available but some options are greyed even if I change the tab on the tool.
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Actually, all I’m doing is reading the manual…I have yet to own one of these, but you’re convincing me!