DIY ICP Module
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This is not a sales thread, just thought I would share how I am making ICP Modules. Besides, these are all spoken for
First: These are not perfectly to scale, I know that but they are how I designed them and I will probably not change the design from here on out. The text is the wrong font, yes, the thumbwheels are not grooved correctly, absolutely right, the buttons are not the correct shade of color/font/height/shape all true. But they do look pretty darn cool if I do say so myself, lol. I was not going for perfect scale, more of a stand-off scale If you really want an ICP module that looks perfect I can point you in the right direction. Some of the professional and even DIY modules on the market are impressive as…well…the real thing and well worth the money
The idea came from a buddy of mine (ujmolter) who wanted to get away from using a USB keypad for his simpit and get something a little more like the real deal. Working together we designed and built our ICP Module MK1 seen below.
I would have stopped there but I was very unhappy with the thumbwheel setup as the mounting system was an afterthought. It worked but was fragile (one broke off when I shipped it to ujmolter). So I decided, if I could get interest enough from my fellow squadron pilots to pay for it, to make the MK2.
At first I was going to use the same panel, PCB sublayer and controller design. But after some reflection (and urging from ujmolter, lol) I added a more scale appearance to the panel with a finger guard, raised upper section and corners that faked the sub panel design of the real ICP module.
For the thumbwheels I found a better candidate for pots. They have their own, larger, thumb wheels which are a better fit for pressing into the larger white thumbwheels. I also came up with a better mounting system, which is fairly sturdy.
The ICP Modules are fully plug and play, the buttons and LEDs are mounted to a PCB sub panel with each button connected directly to the controller board with no need for a matrix between the two. They use the Teensy++ 2.0 micro project board.
The dobber switch is a matrix of four buttons on the PCB sub panel which are pushed in turn by tilting the center post in the direction of the button. A large washer held in place by lock nuts pushes down on the button applying force. A pretty simple design that works well.
Windows sees the ICP Module as a 32 button, 3 axis joystick called “ICP Module”. I decided to make every switch and axis functioning, including the FLIR buttons. The fourth potentiometer acts as a dimmer on the LEDs so there are actually four functioning thumbwheels. In BMS you can just program each key individually or use a profile program such as Helios or SVMapper (I switched to Helios).
Here is the ICP Modules MK1s:
This is my “Sorta Pit” with the ICP module:
And a video of the module in use:
(yes, I am a mouth breather in the spring time, lol. My sinuses are completely plugged)On to the Mark2!
The Controller board, I created custom PCB boards for the controller to make it easier to plug in the button PCB sub panel and potentiometers:
The brass mounts for the potentiometers; I solder the pots to these and then bolt them to the button PCB sub panel:
The upper panel is made of 1/4" white acrylic:
PCB sub panel with the buttons and pots attached. You can see the mounting bolts for the controller board. This allows an offset for wires and plugs to pass along the back and into the controller board. Both the pots and the controller board use nylon bolts.
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The Thumbwheels ready to have the pots pressed in:
A teaser with some buttons tossed in (yes, some are upside down) :shock:
Notice the raised upper section and button guards are glued in place before paint.
And the panels with paint and the text engraved. The text is not perfect, the slower I run the CNC table the better the text, but I got a little impatient sitting there waiting to change panels in the jig as each was finished. I also pocketed the backs for backlighting.
The floating bit holder that I made to do the text. I needed a floating bit holder because my first run had a tendency to dig in too far. It is a pretty simple design.
The buttons, so far I have five sets cut but I plan on running three more (for the woops factor). These get painted today and hopefully get engraved next week. I want to let the layers of paint cure. I use a flat white primer, with several layers of flat black and a final layer of flat grey to follow. The backs will be painted white.
Notice the 1/8" bore holes, I use them for registration marks so each panel can be engraved without missing the buttons. -
Thumbwheels after pressing in potentiometer wheels:
Buttons all painted up and waiting to be engraved:
The first module off the production line. Well, it still needs a dobber handle; I need to fabricate them yet. It also needs a switch for the FLIR (although it will also function as a button).
Otherwise it is fully functional
The first three are ready to be shipped.
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saved
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…saved
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Looking good, are you planning to sell them?
If so, I would be interested
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lol !!
This is not a sales thread, just thought I would share how I am making ICP Modules. Besides, these are all spoken for
Looks good Propnut. Clean job, they might not be 100% accurate as you said, but they are certainly doing their job and they look kick ass!
Well done -
Looking good, are you planning to sell them?
If so, I would be interested
As I mentioned, these are all spoken for. PM me though.
@Red:
lol !!
Looks good Propnut. Clean job, they might not be 100% accurate as you said, but they are certainly doing their job and they look kick ass!
Well donelol, didnt want to get in trouble, and this thread really is to show them off.
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then any more detailed info how to build them?
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Hi Arty, what type of details would you like?
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All??? :lol:
where u bought what?
how the buttons sent the command to the USB controller? I mean the contact…
The USB controller Teensy is it? which version? (looks like 3) -
Everything?!!
Umm…let me try;
The USB controller is a Teensy++ 2.0 available here:
http://www.pjrc.com/store/teensypp_pins.htmlSince I have zero programming skills I used this drag and drop programing software to create the programming:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/generichid/files/
For information on using it see the creators website here:
http://generichid.sourceforge.net/
The buttons on the PCB board use a common ground and each one is individually connected (+) to an input on the Teensy++ 2.0 (see the PCB board for the teensy in the pictures on the first page). The buttons themselves are micro-switches with tactile feedback.
Almost everything was purchased via Ebay except the Teensy’s.
Everything was cut and shaped on my DIY CNC router table, details here:
The basic design for my floating tool holder can be found here (see post # 10):
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/engraving_machines/33263-diy_spring_loaded_engraving_tool_holder.html
(GASP…DEEP BREATH) whew!
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Whats used for dcs switch?
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The dobber switch is a matrix of four buttons on the PCB sub panel which are pushed in turn by tilting the center post in the direction of the button. A large washer held in place by lock nuts pushes down on the button applying force. A pretty simple design that works well.
Whats used for dcs switch?
Quote above is from the first post, let me know if I can help further.
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I can attest that the MK1 works well can’t wait to get my little grubby paws on the MK2:). I have put the MK1 through it’s paces and it is holding up great. It is real nice to have this ICP while “In game”. A big thanks to Propnut and his work on this project!
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Where did you buy pots?
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Ebay
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added and update to post #3
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wow… very impressive! Curious… what would roughly be the cost of such a unit?
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Third post updated with pictures of the buttons painted and waiting for engraving.