Converting Cougar TQS to USB using a Leo Bodnar board
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This should point in the right direction.
Hope it helps you let me know how it goes, only a matter of time before something dies on my Cougar.:D
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Yes - I’ve done this. It works very well, brings your TQS up to 12 bit resolution (which is as good or better than a Hall pot, IMO), and also allows it to work with both a Mac and PC. I used this board -
It’s all a matter of where you tap into the TQS - if you tap in at the J2 connector you’ll notice that all of the switches are already in a matrix, and it’s just a matter of sorting the pins. Very simple conversion really, once you get it pinned. If I can figure out how to post an Attachment, I’ll post my schematic of how I did mine…
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I’ll look at it. Saw it done one another forum and thought it was a good idea. I installed a hall sensor and for some reason things weren’t working. I think I might have fried the PCB and went this route. I have already had to replace the antenna elevation pot on it. I like the setup just it was being stubborn with hall sensors in it. And I’m at a point that this is the best option to get it back running for a good while…
Stevie I went with the X variant of the board for a little more money as that was what I saw on another forum. The board arrives tomorrow. Should I completely rewire it or just use the wiring that is already in place?
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I was able to use the existing wiring when I did mine - the smaller board also makes things a bit easier. I direct soldered all of my pins, but I’m thinking about going back and redoing things using Molex connectors. Will be far cleaner. If you have to, I’d suggest soldering extensions to the stock wiring.
I’ve never really thought much of Hall pots, myself. A pot is pretty much a pot, and unless you’re really hogging it around in a harsh environment I really don’t feel they make that much of a diff…but I guarantee that you will see the difference between the stock Thrusmaster 10 bit and Bodner 12 bit resolutions. Mine was like night and day for the better - found I could instantly set to a Fuel Flow where I could get nowhere close with the stock rig.
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Stevie,
Awesome mine is due to be delivered today. I can’t wait I bougt it second hand last month and have been trying to get the desired performance from it. It’s been difficult especially considerin parts are hard to come by.
Is there any software that is needed?
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Figured out how to convert this file! This is how I wired mine for conversion -
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Ok. So I have it wired up I just don’t have the Z-pot in and I can’t seem to figure out how to get the COMM/IFF switch to work when it is wired. Anyone have any additional insight? Also when I try to look at it in windows it closes on itself.
UPDATE: I got it figured out after making the post. All that is left for me to do is to wire in the Z-Axis Pot and reassemble it.
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Coolness!
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At first - it’s took me a while to figure out just what the micro stick does, electrically. I solved the problem by mapping it to Arrow keys and adjusting the dead zone using ControllerMate on my Mac. Now it’s rock solid.
Electrically, the micro stick describes a Lissajous as it moves from quadrant to quadrant - the trick is to decipher which quadrant it’s in and map that to an Arrow key. For a full Cougar there should be a way to also do this with Foxy, but in our conversion case we need a utility that will 1) read the micro stick; and 2) map it to a key. In any event, I find this method REALLY kills all cursor drift. I just haven’t figured out a way to implement it on a PC yet.