Impatient Electronics Noob Converts Thrustmaster TQS to USB Standalone Throttle
-
After waiting several years for an accurate Viper TQS to be released at an affordable price, I recently gave up on the manufacturers and decided to re-work an older unit using an Arduino. This was a difficult project for me because I have never soldered anything before and I am not a programmer either. Indeed, it was a bit rash for me to attempt this but when I learned that Thrustmaster released a new throttle for an AIRBUS HEAVY instead of an updated Cougar, I was seriously disappointed and I probably handled it badly.
The good news is that I pulled it off and it was easier than I thought. In this post I’ll describe the project and some lessons I learned along the way. I do this for two reasons -
1. Some of you may covet a realistic TQS as much as I did and use this post as a resource with your own project.
2. Some of you are more experienced with hardware craftsmanship and may offer critiques that will help me improve my next project.Project:
Rebuild a TM “TQS Classic” (My nickname to differentiate the plastic model I have from the rarer metal Cougar TQS) to connect directly to a USB port. This required constructing something called a “button matrix” with wire and also adding a chip called an analog to digital converter (“ADC”) to get fine control of throttle inputs. These are both easy and I will include a diagram to illustrate.Hardware - Arduino Pro Micro clone and ADC “MCP3208”
Arduino Clone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FXCTVQP/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
MCP 3208: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083GZN8N7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079SM1LW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1Software - MMjoy2 / https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wik
Tools - Soldering iron with fine point, heat shrink tubing, solder, 22 awg wire, breadboard, magnifying glass with alligator clips, fine point pliers, plastic putty, razor knife, hot glue gun, wire connectors. A Dremel rotary tool speeds up the plastic shaping but risks taking off too much.
Knowhow:
https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki
https://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4415221/1
https://pit.uriba.org/uriba/standalone-cougar-tqs-part-i/
https://www.benchmarksims.org/forum/showthread.php?39847-Converting-Cougar-TQS-to-USB-using-a-Leo-Bodnar-boardLessons learned:
1. No programming necessary with MMjoy2. It’s all baked in and you just need to make some choices from pulldown menus.2. Soldering is not easy but can be enjoyable and relaxing when you find the “zone”.
3. The original thumb cursor for the TQS classic is a trackball and the voltage is not compatible with the Arduino hardware. I deleted this and replaced it with a PS2 thumbstick instead. There were some concerns about quality, but this PS2 thumbstick works great. Some shaping was required to shave off plastic inside the throttle grip handle. Once I got it to fit, I secured it temporarily with hot glue and then added plastic putty to hold it permanently.
Concerns: https://www.benchmarksims.org/forum/showthread.php?36126-Replacing-microstick-double-pot-latest-intelligence-please
Thumbstick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CT949FR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Putty: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003S2E4UE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=14. Buy extras if this is your first go at hardware hacking (like it is mine.) Some soldering errors can be fixed, but catastrophes are easier solved by chucking the casualties in the trash and starting with a fresh part
Pic - Version 1 v 25. There is plenty of wire inside the serial cable that originally connected the TQS to the stick. Being frugal and impatient, I decided to recycle this, which was a mistake. This wire is very thin, delicate, and hard to work into the connectors. After it’s soldered in place, a few flexes are enough to make it break. It would have been easier/faster/better to replace all wires with the 22awg stuff.
AWG: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TX6BX47/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=16. I bought a $15 cheap-o soldering kit from Amazon thinking that this project would not need anything heavy duty. It was a mistake. When it started to break apart and could no longer melt solder, I replaced it with a Weller WLC-100 that cost $40 and is ten times faster/easier to work with.
Bad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756VKPTB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AS28UC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=17. Training. After I became frustrated with my soldering failures, I watched a YouTube video about 10 stupid soldering mistakes and learned that I was guilty of at least 7.
Video:8. The Arduino board has enough analog ports to use it for the cursor X & Y, range, and ant elev controls. Still, it’s better to put them all on the ADC instead. This way simplifies troubleshooting because if ANY of the analog controls are working, you know the ADC is OK and can be ruled out as a problem. The ADC is required if you want greater than 10 bit resolution on the throttle or other analog axes.
Use a socket when soldering the ADC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079SM1LW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=19. The detent for the TQS classic looks like something you would throw away. Kind of like part of the plastic ring that stays on the Pepsi bottle after you unscrew the cap for the first time. I’m pretty sure I threw it away, so don’t do that unless you are sure you don’t need it. I miss mine, so if you are sure you don’t want it, then please get in touch!
10. Use headers instead of trying to solder wire directly to the board.
11. It’s easier to use veroboard and drill out connections you need to break, rather than using perfboard and soldering all needed connections.
Conclusion -
This project took longer than I expected and cost a little more also. On the other hand, I have a new skill and some tools that I can use to take my pit to the next level. In about 3-4 weeks, BMS 4.35 will be out and may include VR support… (?) When that happens, more buttons and toggle switches would be handy. After completing this project, it would be simple for me to build a button box and put the most important switches right under my fingertips. Even if VR support doesn’t happen soon, these skills will pay off - because now I can replace the 4-way comm switch with a 5-way switch and add “cursor zero” to my HOTAS.As I said earlier, I wanted to share this experience with you all in case some of you want to repeat this project or do something similar. Also, this was my first go at an electronics “hack” and I welcome constructive criticism and advice from more experienced folks.
-
Absolutely awesome!! Well done!
-
Nice work mate, and thanks for sharing.
-
I have a same FLCS and TQS, and I have an arduino pro micro too. I would like to convert in USB. I have shift register in the handle and the trottle. and I also want to use TLE5010 hall sensor for potmeters. Have anyone experience in this case. I have already made a pre-connection and try to test in MMJOY2 softver, but there were not every buttons were regognised by the program.Does anyone what is the good set up in the program ? Have anyone a connection schematic about the handle and the trottle for this arduino and shift register combination? It would be nice if the buttons would be the same connection than the cougar to use in the future the same keymapping.
I have this shift register:
https://scontent-dus1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/133702499_450029902827088_5469505814946343933_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=2&_nc_sid=ae9488&_nc_ohc=MeXBkGyhCAEAX84mJa4&_nc_ht=scontent-dus1-1.xx&oh=85a03f464c7a9909bacaee3adbae656e&oe=600ED5EC
https://scontent-dus1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/133729878_173318704482805_2241257111702963355_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=2&_nc_sid=ae9488&_nc_ohc=RZ-OvATOOewAX9cmpHj&_nc_ht=scontent-dus1-1.xx&oh=0b86ef7ec32526fbe6196da85125056d&oe=60103F7Fand this pro micro with shield:
https://scontent-dus1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/133563606_1336581573342660_7327801996118268274_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&cb=846ca55b-311e05c7&ccb=2&_nc_sid=ae9488&_nc_ohc=HZxr4J5LXTEAX_KeFcs&_nc_ht=scontent-dus1-1.xx&oh=04819c02a4224e5ef09bdd6c33f384b1&oe=600F87D1I anyone can read the chines text on it it would be help also.
On the shift register has an in and out put with 5 pins (VCC 3,3V,GND,CLK-SCK,SL-CS,DATA-MISO) But I don’ know this pins are where on the 6ea side pins , where need to connect the buttons.
And among these pins , which pins could be connected togheter on the TLE5010 like a common pins like the VCC and GND to save wires to interconnected between the TQS and the FLCS.I don’t know what is the correct connection for the buttons and the TLE5010 if I want to use only one pro micro board for the TQS and the FLCS and it would be placed in the TQS base.
-
Hi!
_Read this material, maybe that’s what you look for!
Lots of reading !!!
Link below!
https://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324042/f16-flcs-tqs-original-usb-conversionGood luck!!_
-
If you are not registered in the forum, sign up, post your doubts, there is always someone, willing to judge !!!
-
I know this forum, but nobody reply to me by now.
And I also wrote the other topic MMJOY2 at the same forum.
For me it doesn’t cleare the connection between the shift register and the buttons. witch pins go where to be a right place to came out the 5 pins from the handle. -
I have a same FLCS and TQS, and I have an arduino pro micro too. I would like to convert in USB. I have shift register in the handle and the trottle. and I also want to use TLE5010 hall sensor for potmeters. Have anyone experience in this case. I have already made a pre-connection and try to test in MMJOY2 softver, but there were not every buttons were regognised by the program.Does anyone what is the good set up in the program ? Have anyone a connection schematic about the handle and the trottle for this arduino and shift register combination? It would be nice if the buttons would be the same connection than the cougar to use in the future the same keymapping.
I have this shift register:
https://scontent-dus1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/133702499_450029902827088_5469505814946343933_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=2&_nc_sid=ae9488&_nc_ohc=MeXBkGyhCAEAX84mJa4&_nc_ht=scontent-dus1-1.xx&oh=85a03f464c7a9909bacaee3adbae656e&oe=600ED5EC
https://scontent-dus1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/133729878_173318704482805_2241257111702963355_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=2&_nc_sid=ae9488&_nc_ohc=RZ-OvATOOewAX9cmpHj&_nc_ht=scontent-dus1-1.xx&oh=0b86ef7ec32526fbe6196da85125056d&oe=60103F7Fand this pro micro with shield:
https://scontent-dus1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/133563606_1336581573342660_7327801996118268274_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&cb=846ca55b-311e05c7&ccb=2&_nc_sid=ae9488&_nc_ohc=HZxr4J5LXTEAX_KeFcs&_nc_ht=scontent-dus1-1.xx&oh=04819c02a4224e5ef09bdd6c33f384b1&oe=600F87D1I anyone can read the chines text on it it would be help also.
On the shift register has an in and out put with 5 pins (VCC 3,3V,GND,CLK-SCK,SL-CS,DATA-MISO) But I don’ know this pins are where on the 6ea side pins , where need to connect the buttons.
And among these pins , which pins could be connected togheter on the TLE5010 like a common pins like the VCC and GND to save wires to interconnected between the TQS and the FLCS.I don’t know what is the correct connection for the buttons and the TLE5010 if I want to use only one pro micro board for the TQS and the FLCS and it would be placed in the TQS base.
Hi Revpez
I couldn’t see any model numbers of the shift register chips in your photos. MMJOY2 supports 74HC165 and also 4021 shift registers. If you were able to use some buttons but not others then maybe (?) these chips are ok. I haven’t used shift registers yet so I don’t have a config to share with you unfortunately.
If you can get all the buttons to create an input in the MMJOY config tool, then you can make it work. Even if the button numbers change, it’s not a big problem to re-map them in BMS or Alternative Launcher.
I didn’t recognize any Chinese characters in your photos. I think it’s all English.
-
https://ibb.co/85Xsxdz
Maybe the attachment was broken.
So this is my problem to to don’t know that the shift register chips are the same from both of them ot different and it isn’t supported by MMJOY2 program.
But It ther is a text on it to ejoy and mjoy.So above the pics what I have shield and shift register.