Morphine's Profile
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Ok I just always had profiles that allowed you to do that with a button press. Morphine, do you know what’s up with the china hat? I can actually move the bar in the settings, but it doesn’t register in the pit.
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See response in your other thread.
The issue is that you are expecting the HOTAS to have the same functionality as whatever profile you used previously. However, the functionality was not realistic, in that the real HOTAS does not have those functions (which is how the BMS developers programmed the sim and how I tried to implement that functionality in the profile). Look at the BMS Manual for a diagram of the real the HOTAS and the corresponding BMS functions.
That being said, if you want certain functions on the HOTAS, programming the key file and the TARGET profile will allow you to do almost anything you can want or imagine.
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Hi, One more question, before when trying to lock a ground target I would push TMS Up once and it would ground stabilize, how do I perform that task now, as that no longer works.
Thanks
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You can not lock all ground targets like you could in previous versions. For most targets you can only TMS up which ground stabilizes the TGP and puts it on AREA mode. This is the primary way you drop LGBs. For most vehicles and at certain ranges you can TMS up to then place the TGP in SPOT mode which is similar to the old way of locking a target.
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I would buy the G13, where can I find the labels already writtens?
Thank you very much. -
I would buy the G13, where can I find the labels already writtens?
Thank you very much.I’ve printed the picture of ICP onto A4 plain sticker, and cut the buttons to paste on the G13.
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Great, thanks
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Fuzzysham sent me a PM with a problem he is having that I think others are also having. I’ve posted his PM here and my response so all can address their similar issue.
Unfortunately, your device is being recognized as the 4th DirectX device attached (when TARGET is running) rather than the 1st. First thing I would try is to unplug all other USB Game devices, reboot, and then plug your WH Joystick directly into a Motherboard USB port (the ones on the back of your computer near your Ethernet port, etc.) and not to any external USB hub or other front or back USB ports on your computer (as these are also considered hubs). Reboot your computer and do the same with the WH Throttle putting it right next to the Joystick. Reboot again. Now add your other devices to any other USB ports and one last reboot. Now if you got lucky, this may have re-ordered your devices so that the WH Joystick is now Device 0 and the Throttle is Device 1. You can see what the Device order is by going to using DxDiag.exe. To start DxDiag, go to your Start Menu and in the Search box at the bottom, type DxDiag and it should appear in the list above and you can launch it. The last tab called INPUT will list all your DirectX (DirectInput) devices attached. Under the column CONTROLLER ID, it will list the ID number and thus the order they appear to games (remember ID# 0 is the first device and so on). So if our trick worked above, the Joystick is ID# 0 and the Throttle is ID# 1. When the TARGET script is run the Thrustmaster Combined device should now get Controller ID# 0 in DxDiag.
If that didn’t work then you will need to edit the Warthog_DX.key file (with Notepad++) and the TARGET script (with Script Editor). In the keyfile you only need to edit the Joystick mappings. I’ve attached a spreadsheet that shows how the numbers are calculated. Since your Thrustmaster combined device is Device #4 then you need to add 128 to every number from 0-32.
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If you have other DirectX devices like the TM MFD’s attached you will probably have the same problem and have to edit the key file to fix their numbers as well using the same process. However, you may need to experiment with the numbering as when you run TARGET the MFD’s don’t move to DirectX ID 1 & 2 in DxDiag, but that is how the game sees them and how the keyfile controls them. You may also need to experiment with your numbering for your DirectX devices as it may also have some differences in how the game sees it versus how DxDiag reports it. A quick test is to go into the Controller Setup screen in the game (with TARGET script running) and push the first trigger button on the Joystick (just to the first detent) and see what the game reports that button number to be (e.g. 128 ). The same can be done with the MFD’s but use the upper far left button. You will then you will know where to start your numbering for each device.
Hope that helps and good luck.
I appreciate the detailed response. That really helped a lot. I knew in theory what had to be done but didn’t know the best way to go about it. Your spreadsheet was very useful. I have used your profile before, last May-ish. It worked flawlessly before. Since then, I have gotten three ten port USB hubs that are full plus all the 12+ ports on my mobo and upgraded to Windows 8 and an FSSB R3 for the Warthog. Makes sense that it did not go so smooth this time for me. I was using the Cougar throttle with the FSSB R3 Warthog but the Cougar throttle is just not cutting it anymore. Yours definitely is the best profile.
I spent from 9am to about 6pm trying to get this to work, as I had nothing better to do today. First it was editing the key file but then the shifting wasn’t working then it was re-ordering the USB inputs, among other things. I finally got it working and now I’m gonna pass out from the mental strain of so many numbers. Ultimately, I did it by re-ordering all the inputs. I actually found the easiest way was to right click and remove a device in “Devices and Printers”. Once I got the stick and throttle working, the MFD’s were not in the correct order so I kept removing and letting it re-add itself until it finally put itself in the right place. Now I know the easier way. I am terrified to reboot my computer for fear of screwing it up again. I can’t even imagine how borked the controls for DCS are now.
Thanks for helping me get it working again.
I’ve had the exact same problem. For me the joystick was set to ID#1 and throttle to ID#0 every single time. First I’ve tried unplugging/plugging them in 1 by 1 with rebooting like Morphine said, but they were always set to the same ID#. Next, I’ve unplugged them and went to Device Manager and enabled “Show hidden devices” and deleted all the entries I could find related to my joystick, then tried the Morphine method again. Again they were set to the same ID# (joystick 1, throttle 0). After that I’ve tried the Fuzzysham method of removing them through “Devices and Printers” but the same problem occured when I plugged them back in.
After that I’ve started browsing on how to change them through regedit and I’ve stumbled upon a nifty program that fixed the issue with ID# for me. The program is called JoyIDs and you can find it HERE.
The way I fixed my issue after installing JoyIDs:
1. Unplugged Joystick, Throttle and Pedals.
2. Removed Joystick, Throttle and Pedals from “Devices and Printers” under Control Panel.
3. Plugged in Joystick and waited for Windows to install the driver.
4. Plugged in Throttle and waited for Windows to install the driver.
5. Opened JoyIDs and ordered them like THIS.
6. Right-click on JoyIDs and select “Register ‘jid’ Layout Files” and then closed the program.
7. Opened DxDiag and made sure that Joystick was being listed as Controller ID 0 and Throttle as 1.
8. Plugged in Pedals and waited for Windows to install the driver.
9. Opened JoyIDs again and ordered the devices listed to finally look like THIS.
10. Right-click on JoyIDs and select “Register ‘jid’ Layout Files” and then closed the program.
11. Launched TARGET Script Editor and ran the FalconBMS-Warthog.tmc file and waited for it to load.After that I launched Falcon BMS and under Controller Options > Advanced my Thrustmaster Combined was finally listed as (0) and Saitek Rudder Pedals were listed as (1). After at least 3-4h of pulling my hair out I could finally fly again. Hopefully this will work for you as well. If it means anything I’m using Windows 8 64.
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Hi Morphine,
great profile, working fine, thanks for it. For me there was a little error in the file I downloaded that I had to change:
//Engine Operate Left MapKey(&Throttle, EOLIGN, PULSE+L_SHIFT+'j'); MapKey(&Throttle, EOLNORM, PULSE+L_SHIFT+L_CTL+'j'); MapKey(&Throttle, EOLMOTOR, PULSE+L_SHIFT+L_ALT+'j'); //Engine Operate Right MapKey(&Throttle, EORIGN, PULSE+L_SHIFT+'j'); MapKey(&Throttle, EORNORM, 0); MapKey(&Throttle, EORMOTOR, DX26);
having the same key (L_SHIFT+‘j’) for “Idle detent” and “JFS Start”.
Greetings
Max
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The duplicate JFS Start was by (bad) design. If you are using the Idle Cutoff code that I added in Version 2 then you no longer need ALT-i (in fact it shouldn’t work if you made the right settings in BMS Configuration). Since that switch is spring-loaded I just couldn’t think of any different function to put there.
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Where can I get a copy if the file?
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See first post.
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Hi Morphine,
may I ask what OS you have? I have no troubles with running your profile on Windows 7 64 pro, but a friend of mine isn’t able to run it on Windows 8. This has nothing to do with your specific profile, problem is, that with any profile loaded, falcon will suddenly no more recognize the warthog HOTAS - but it’s there, if you look in game controlers. So the question is if anybody manage to run profile with falcon in Windows 8?
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I’m running on Win 8 with no problems so I’m pretty sure it can be done. I don’t think I understand what the specific problem is from your description. Did he get a new computer with Win 8 pre-instralled or did he upgrade from Win 7? And if he upgraded, did he do a clean install or try to upgrade his current installation?
One observation about Win 8 is that it is much less predictable in how it numbers the Direct X devices. Thus his Warthog could be device #3 rather than the first device which is how the profile is programmed. See post #148 for further details.
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Thanks a lot for this info. As far as I know it is a new computer with pre-installed Windows 8 - at least now we know that it can be done at all.
I have no clue what could be the problem. Thought of numbered directX devices too (or puzzled USB ports), but I didn’t thought of that this could actually affect the pure axis assignment. The approach in post #148 is worth a try anyway. Will report back.
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Ok so it’s the axes that aren’t working properly. Are they working in the Windows “Game Controllers” panel? Also are they working properly in the TARGET Device Analyzer? If those are working then it must be some problem specific to BMS. If it’s not working there then you probably have a driver problem and need to reinstall the drivers. Has he tried it with any other games?
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I am noticing when taking off my plane starts to drift off to the left as speed builds up. Is this due to the fact I am not using rudder pedals or could it be the small dead zone included in the WH 2.O profile?
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I am noticing when taking off my plane starts to drift off to the left as speed builds up. Is this due to the fact I am not using rudder pedals or could it be the small dead zone included in the WH 2.O profile?
I bet nothing to do with the profile, probably asymmetric loadout.
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I am noticing when taking off my plane starts to drift off to the left as speed builds up. Is this due to the fact I am not using rudder pedals or could it be the small dead zone included in the WH 2.O profile?
Most likely lack of rudder pedals and your lack of steering capability. Dead zone should have no effect.