Another Hall Sensor upgrade
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Or use a usb charge or usb cable (connected to a powered usb plug) cut the wire isolate the power line wire and plug it to miles pcb? Could this also work?
Sent from TapaTalk
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That would work, but it’s overkill as the 5vdc is already on both versions of the TQS PCBs. It’s just a matter of supplying the power (proper voltage without too much current than the device can handle). A jumper wire and trace cut or an onboard mini dc-dc converter would be simpler and without more external wires and power supplies.
Also, the PCBs have a version/revision number on them, and I bet TM knows what TQS serial numbers were run for each PCB version. This would allow people to know which pcb type without opening up the base. But once the TQS base is opened up, and it has to eventually, one can read the pcb version and inspect the pcb for the series surface mounted resistor.
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This post is deleted! -
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Arty
It looks like you have the new board. Did you try it yet? -
Great news… I too am a long time modded Cougar guy with the Evenstrain mod which is working just fine at the moment. This looks like a mod for a Stock Cougar. My question is does this mod help when the stock gimbals start to wear. I do know the stock gimbals are made of a softer metal and over time some slop will happen and this is what put uneven strain on the POTS which would wear them out quick. It looks like this mod has no contact with anything so I’m assuming it addresses this old issue.
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Arty
It looks like you have the new board. Did you try it yet?Not yet. It arrived a bit late and I was already at work… Probably Tomorrow…
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I hate cliff hangars
:munch:
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Miles why do I have 2 plastic pieces? I should put them underneath the hall sensor pcb?
Ok disregard I found the video…
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Yes this picture should show how.
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The spacers are there to make sure the height is correct and provide a relief cut so the board can sit flat. Just be sure the solder joint is in the relief cut.
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Thanx I figured it out as it was the only way to assemble them. :lol:
Sent from TapaTalk
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Out of pure luck no ring adjustment needed… first call was perfect. At least this is what the apps say… falcon will be the final judge…
Edit: if u r lucky… Falcon just doesn’t run.
Yeap.
Aaaahhhhhuuuuuuuummmmmm
Where is that fire hose?
Edit: Found it… well it’s alive… the force feedback from my wheel pedals suddenly got blocking 4.33 U1. Yeap it’s alive… it has it’s own character and it’s braking my nerves down… Ohhhh Microsoft…
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Yeap me again…
After the steam gone and many hours and exercises of yoga to reach spiritual stability cause BMS is not running as it should.
In the BMS UI I observed that there was a dead zone in the start.
I had zero before doing the cougar manual calibration. I did the calibration and everything shows fine in CCP.
But in BMS controllers I move the throttle and the axis is not moving… after a while it wakes up. Also it reaches max way sooner, which is not the case in CCP.Let me first say that I use a trick in the profile with the shifted way to go to afterburner… hmmm maybe now I should remove this as it’s not needed any more with the Hall Sensor. I will look in to it today if the cougar programming is causing it but shouldn’t I have the same observations in CCP?
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Arty,
How did you make out? I really like DIView for testing. I don’t use CCP but it should give you more direct values. -
well diview was not accurate at all as ccp was not accurate also. From Foxy the issue is obvious.
I don’t have the energy right now to redo. I took it for a spin as is and I found it smooth.
In aar it was way easier to keep up for speed…
but my stick center play needs to be worked again so i couldn’t fully enjoy it as i couldnt center with the tanker . -
Were you viewing the raw data in DIView? I don’t think you can get more accurate than DIView raw Data. I tested it with hard coded 16bit data and it is always right on. I can’t speak for the calibration transferring though.
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raw data?
I dont recall if i made such a selection, i had a view similar to your video.Edit: I just found the raw data in DIView and you are right it shows the same issue in my case as Foxy test axis does.
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My little package arrived this week. Thanks Mike and UK customs for not holding it up or charging me duty on it, yet?
Watched the videos a couple to times, then went to work.
Couple of minor points.
Joystick - on my set, the pitch axis part needed a bit of filing on the left hand side to open the gap before it slid into place. Otherwise perfect.
Throttle, the thrustmaster ribbon cable must have been close to the minimum length because there was very little room to position it with the sensor and ring in place. Got there in the end.
All working great now.
Thanks Mike.
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Hello Miles,
Thanks a lot for the throttle kit. Received it last week and it seems just great.
I have a problem though. I’ve followed your instructions to the letter for installation and calibration and whatever I do, I can’t seem to get to zero for minimum value of the throttle axis. DIView tells me I can’t go lower than 39. BTW, I use the TUSBA R2, which should give me raw values of 0 - 4095 and my Cougar has the “old” PCB. I transformed it to bypass the resistor in order to get enough voltage. So now in BMS, I can have max value and reach full afterburner but the throttle values seem to stop at idle detent and won’t go further down. Do you think it’s because of the Cougar old PCB ? Or the TUSBA R2? Would it be better with TUSBA R1? I’m at a loss here, any help would be much appreciated.
Kind regardsJudy