If You Could Build A New Computer Just for Falcon BMS Right Now…
-
-
Well i dont think it was a waste of time.
Many guys learned many things and the configs u posted Shadow im sure will be used for refference from many.
Always look on the bright side of things.Tax? Aouch…
sent from my mi5 using Tapatalk
-
-
Well that was a wast of time, what happened to build your own.
The SSD is a POS http://www.anandtech.com/show/11085/the-adata-ultimate-su800-ssd-review-128gb-256gb-512gb/10
The 1080 is overkill.
Team vulcan 16gb ddr4 only just.
Gigabyte Z270P-D3 entry level but will do the job, but no more.You could have had a nice Rig but settling for mediocre.
Oh I didn’t buy anything yet. Just used that as an example build.
-
BMS only,
Best to take
i3-7350K, 4,2 GHz
Or
i5-7600K, 3,8 GHz -
Oh I didn’t buy anything yet. Just used that as an example build.
Almost impossible to build the perfect rig on the first attempt, hindsight will say much.
Like sands in the hour glass so are the rigs I held dear. ( I need to get a life)
-
Post your build then?
Silverstone Raven 2b case
OCZ-ZX 1250 Watt 80+ gold power supply
Gigabyte GA-Z170-UD5 motherboard
Intel i7-6700K CPU
Noctua NH D-14 CPU cooler
G.Skill 3600 DDR4 16 gigs (8x2)
NVidia Titan X (Maxwell) x2 in SLI
Those Titans drive three 23" LG IPS 235V monitors in a NVidia Surround display
Mushkin Enhanced Chronos 480 GB SSD boot drive
SanDisk Extreme PRO 960GB SSD x2 as game drives
Western Digital Black 5 TB storage drive
Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Champion
Liteon 12x blu-ray burner
Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum keyboard
Logitech G700s mouseI found one that meets his criteria and mine, and can be used for other stuff besides gaming.
Oh you mean the one you put together with no SSD and a power supply that was so cheap that it shouldn’t be trusted with 700 dollars worth of CPU/mobo? You had the case AND power supply listed together at 73 bucks. Meaning that power supply was no better than 20 or 30 bucks. Not something anyone should ever use on a high end rig period.
I will admit being impressed that you got close to the 2k mark but the only way you did was by excluding an SSD and including an ultra cheap keyboard/mouse combo and a PSU that isn’t trust worthy for that system.
A lot of other stuff.
He isn’t doing “a lot of other stuff” with that rig. This is what you have continually failed to take into account in trying to push for a more expensive build. That or even address the possibility of an AMD Ryzen build being better bang for the buck.
And in case you’re in the market for tea in china later… https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/core/desktop-5th-gen-core-family-datasheet-vol-1.html Para 5.7… Second time I’ve given you this. Unless explicitly stated, I don’t assume, I research. Try it some time.
Sigh. You can link it a thousand times but it means nothing unless you are exceeding those limits. I am NOT. Table 23 is showing TCC activation at 96 C. So unless you get up to that point it DOESN’T THROTTLE. I can thermally max my CPU and watch it sit at mid 70s and be watching CPU Z at the same time and the CPU frequency is hardly moving at all. Mainly due to slight changes in the BClk freq as it dips from 100 to like 99.6.
PS… Your BIOS CANNOT lock your processor speed. It can REQUEST a speed. Your processor will do what it is programmed to do regardless of what the BIOS asks of it. Completely transparent to you, it will adjust clock speed as required to meet it’s limitations.
OK thanks for getting to the picking nits stage. I have the BIOS dialed in and I can use any manner of utility and verify that it is dialed in at what I requested. Since I have told it through the BIOS what I want it to run at it is always running at that frequency unless affected by temperature. Which it never is.
Feel free to verify that in the above link as well.
Once again the only time your multiply linked reference is going to apply is if you get up to TCC of 96 C. Which I never do even in synthetic torture tests.
PPS… If you’re running 2 titans and a 6700k OC on straight air, I promise you you aren’t getting the full CPU performance. That’s a fact, no assumptions required. Let me know what your temp monitors say when you’re under load. The Titans alone will raise the case air temp above manageable levels for strictly fans.
I can run Prime95 in Small FTT mode to max out the CPU thermally and I hit mid 70s on nothing but air. A full 20 C below TCC. The CPU is sitting at 1.308 volts at that stage so no issues there either.
BTW, I’m not really trying to be a d*ck and strictly confrontational with you, although I kind of get that feeling from you. I’m really trying to help, because you’re wrong, on several points.
I get the distinct impression from the conversation that you are an Intel enthusiast platform fan boy. You have pushed the same rig regardless of what the OP has stated the purpose was and have steadfastly ignored any mention of AMD Ryzen. I am not questioning your wanting to help but IMO you are seeing these through fan boy glasses which colors the output.
And I can guarantee you would get noticeably better performance from your rig under WC.
No one is saying that WC can’t beat big air. It certainly can. However it adds complexity/points of failure and cost to the build. As has been pointed out even if you have a fan failure on big air you still have these enormous passive fins to get heat away from the CPU just not the fans to move air. Not so much if you get a pump fail on a WC system. Then you only have the water block. The CPU will still do it’s job to protect itself of course. Either way I am not here to rain on anyone’s WC parade. I just prefer the simplicity of big air.
And probably prevent one of the titans from melting a fan at some point in the future.
Hyperbole will get you no where. Since I have been running this same setup for several years now at what point am I supposed to be worried about them melting “at some point in the future”?
I wouldn’t be surprised to hear you say your temp sits at 70+ C idle and well over 90 under full load, which is NOT ok…
You know what they say about assuming…
Try mid 20s idling and mid 70s full CPU thermal load.
-
Poor xcraftile ( the guy who started the thread) must be thinking “wtf, I better not ask which is the best GPU for BMS, I might get banned for over exciting the natives”
Well GPU isn’t one I would even argue at all as both sides of the isle can serve you just fine in that regard at roughly the same price points. I personally prefer NVidia but there is nothing wrong at all with running Radeons.
Point taken though that the OP is probably asking himself how we got here.
-
Welp, I think I have less of an idea of what I want to build now… lol. Going back to my earlier, post, it sounds like that build I found on pcpartpicker will do just fine running windows 7. Again this is primarily a BMS rig, if I wanna mess around with XP11 or DCS I can always get some more ram and OC the CPU. Maybe upgrade to water cooled. Sounds about right?:
https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/hsgXsY/excellent-gaming-build
Whoah hold on. If the link to the excellent gaming build is what you have in mind then you have to take into account that MS has nixed the ability for people to patch up Windows 7 on Kaby Lake or Ryzen CPUs and that build is based on a Kaby Lake. Just hafta keep that in mind. If you are going with either of the newest CPUs it is probably best to run Windows 10. If you really want Windows 7 you need to get a Sky Lake CPU. The Sky Lake equivalent to that build’s CPU is a i5-6600K.
-
@Cloud:
HAHA, while these guys, MortSile, Stubbies, Shadow, Ice know their stuff, sometimes it’s not a good idea to put how much you have to spend, especially when it’s a good amount like $2000 clams.
Sometimes it better to say, “Dude’s, I wanna build a rig for Falcon…I’m broke, the wife divorced me, took the house, left the dog, who by the way has heart disease, whatcha say?!?!?!”
LMAO
C9
Don’t forget the car broke down so he has to walk to and home from work. Up hill. Both ways.
-
-
Whoah hold on. If the link to the excellent gaming build is what you have in mind then you have to take into account that MS has nixed the ability for people to patch up Windows 7 on Kaby Lake or Ryzen CPUs and that build is based on a Kaby Lake. Just hafta keep that in mind. If you are going with either of the newest CPUs it is probably best to run Windows 10. If you really want Windows 7 you need to get a Sky Lake CPU. The Sky Lake equivalent to that build’s CPU is a i5-6600K.
Cool, let me know if this link works, this is the modified build of the original one I posted in light of the new advice. Also includes everything else I’ll need to get it all up and running (meets my price point):
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/q4jThq -
Your memory is way to slow.
And you spend good money on a kick arse 1080 GPU to drive a piddle little 21" monitor.
1080s are for 4k monitors. 1070 is more then enough for 32’ 2560x1440
-
Yeah, I’ll try to find some better memory. I plan on using VR or triple screen at some point, so I think the 1080 is a good bet.
-
Wait are you talking about the RAM latency, hz, the SSD or what? Cuz I though that as far as SSDs go, 6gb/s is about as good as it gets.
So like this for RAM?:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/d8mxFT/gskill-tridentz-rgb-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c17d-16gtzrThat about tops my planned budget though.
-
1080s are for 4k monitors. 1070 is more then enough for 32’ 2560x1440
Since the miners have been bleeding the suppliers dry of 1060s and 1070s the prices on those two have gone up. Wouldn’t be surprised if the 1080 wasn’t that much more expensive than a 1070 atm.
-
Wait are you talking about the RAM latency, hz, the SSD or what? Cuz I though that as far as SSDs go, 6gb/s is about as good as it gets.
So like this for RAM?:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/d8mxFT/gskill-tridentz-rgb-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c17d-16gtzrThat about tops my planned budget though.
The SSD chosen is just fine. Good transfer rates on it. He was talking about your RAM for sure as 2133 is the slowest you could get. You could get like 3000 or 3200 and be fine. 3600 is good as well. I agree with both of Shadow’s comments. I’d suggest a bump to 23" or 24" on the monitor and somewhere between 3000-3600 for the memory. The 1080 will run a triple screen setup beautifully. Other than that the build looks good.
-
The SSD chosen is just fine. Good transfer rates on it. He was talking about your RAM for sure as 2133 is the slowest you could get. You could get like 3000 or 3200 and be fine. 3600 is good as well. I agree with both of Shadow’s comments. I’d suggest a bump to 23" or 24" on the monitor and somewhere between 3000-3600 for the memory. The 1080 will run a triple screen setup beautifully. Other than that the build looks good.
Cool, I think I can bump up to this monitor without breaking the bank:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jVJwrH/qnix-monitor-qx2710matte
So this is my build now, $2050, should do fine for my purposes:
-
@Cloud:
HAHA, while these guys, MortSile, Stubbies, Shadow, Ice know their stuff, sometimes it’s not a good idea to put how much you have to spend, especially when it’s a good amount like $2000 clams.
Actually, no. He did exactly the right thing by 1) posting a budget and 2) specifying what the PC will be expected to do.
Logitech MK550 - 44.99
and including an ultra cheap keyboard/mouse combo
I LOVE THIS KEYBOARD!! I’ve been using mine for 7 years now… had to replace the mouse (G700S now) but the keyboard rocks! Stubbies, BITE YOUR TONGUE AND WASH OUT YOUR MOUTH WITH SOAP!!! Your statement offends me!! Pistols at dawn!!
Cooler Master Elite Mid Tower Case w/ PS - 73.85
What case is this exactly? The 310? 311? 330U? The CoolerMaster website doesn’t even list this “Elite 350” under the Elite line but is rather all the way down the page…. classified as “Other”…
Also, way to go with proving your point here… you’re going to stick $1,500 worth of components into a case that looks like this?
Tell me, where exactly will you put your H100i which comes with a 276.00mm x 125.00mm x 30.00mm radiator? Will it even allow for the cooler backplate? Epic fail, man. Epic fail.
SanDisk 64GB SSD - 126.99
You’re recommending a 64GB SSD? I won’t even install Windows on a 120GB SSD!!
Post your build then? I found one that meets his criteria and mine, and can be used for other stuff besides gaming. A lot of other stuff.
“A lot of other stuff…” Yeah, like epic-high temps and a build experience that I won’t even wish on my worst enemy!
You could have had a nice Rig but settling for mediocre.
He blew his wad on a 140TDP chip, an expensive mobo, an overkill GPU for a 1080p monitor… but this isn’t even “mediocre.” This is KFC original recipe extra crispy all thanks to that budget case… if the PSU doesn’t explode first and takes everything with it… and this is even assuming the components can be successfully installed inside the case!
No one is saying that WC can’t beat big air. It certainly can. However it adds complexity/points of failure and cost to the build.
Big costs. The only thing that can really, REALLY beat a good aircooler is a custom watercooling setup with at least 2x 240mm rads. At that point, budget and bang-for-buck goes out the window… it’s like saying SLI setups beat single-GPU setups… sure, but at what cost? And what performance gain did you get for how much more $$$?
Cool, let me know if this link works, this is the modified build of the original one I posted in light of the new advice. Also includes everything else I’ll need to get it all up and running (meets my price point):
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/q4jThqNot a fan of this build.
CPU Cooler - check out reviews and prices for a Noctua NH-D15 or D15S. Newegg has it for around $88. Definitely worth the money.
RAM - get 2666MHz or better. You’ll want that when you OC.
Storage - not a fan of Adata or Hitachi. Samsung SSDs is the gold standard, and I’d go WD for storage. 1TB should be more than enough… if you need more, then this isn’t exactly a gaming rig, is it?
Case - for the price, I think you can get better cases with better fan options
Optical drive - do you really, really, REALLY, REALLY need this? You can install Windows via USB…
Wireless adapter - go wired connection if you can! Check out powerline adaptors and 10Gbit switches…
Monitor - 27"… and something that you can just buy another two of to get your triple-screen setup. At least 24" to start with…
KB/Mouse - not really a fan of “gaming” keyboards unless you’re playing professional online games against Koreans and Taiwanese
Speakers - might be better to invest in a headset that includes a mic… you know, for when you’re flying Falcon BMS in MP -
Here’s a suggested build:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bdyYGf- 7600K
- NH-D15
- GA-Z270X - $252 on the motherboard, but you could get cheaper options. What I’d suggest you look for in particular is 1) OC support, 2) LED diagnostics to show you which parts of your setup is failing, 3) M.2 NVMe support, and 4) enough SATA, USB, and other ports that you need… and at least a USB 3.0 header so that you can add a few more ports if you need to.
- DDR 4 2x8GB 3200MHz - excellent for OC
- 2x 850 SSDs - one for OS and programs, one for games. If you don’t have too many programs or if this is STRICTLY a gaming PC, you can do with 1x SSD.
- 1x 1TB 7200RPM HDD - short-stroke this one and get 200-350GB more storage for games.
- GTX 1070 8GB - VR ready, more than capable of running 3 screens, and the fans don’t spin unless the GPU is under load.
- Corsair Carbide 500R case - this is currently my case… but in black. I’ve been looking for a good replacement case for almost a year now and I’ve not found one that I like yet. This case has 2x 120mm fans in the front… and I’ve removed the 5.25 drive bay covers and placed a 140mm fan there too. It has a 200mm side fan and a 120mm rear fan, and space for 2x 120mm or 140mm fans on the top. I’ve popped a 140mm fan on the top for additional exhaust, but with 2x120, 1x140, 1x200 intake fans vs 1x120mm, 1x140mm exhaust, my case is under positive pressure. The lower 120mm fan blows air over my HDDs, the top 120mm fan blows air directly into the case (the HDD bays are removable), the 140mm fan supplies air to the Noctua cooler. The 200mm side fan ensures my GPU has more than enough fresh air, while the two exhaust fans makes sure that the hot air from the CPU cooler gets expelled as quick as possible.
- 650W 80+Gold - for the same price as your 550W… higher wattage ensures that you are at “peak performance” at max load of your system, which is usually around the 50% mark of the PSU’s rating.
- Windows 10 - Why not? Unless you really, really, REALLY want Win7 or Win8…. but stick to Win10 Anniversary Edition.
- 3x 27" Monitor - again, feel free to change this. Look for one with smaller bezels if possible…. You did say you wanted triple-screen!!
- KB/Mouse/Speakers - no sense in splurging for these. You’ll be simming anyway Splurge on a set of Cougar MFDs or a touchscreen instead!
The list comes down to $2167 or $2120 after rebates… I know, I know… it’s over budget… but this could easily be solved by going single-screen for now ($310 less right there!), going with just 1x SSD, or picking a cheaper motherboard that has the features you want.