Here is a nice 3d printed HAL sensor
-
the first one worked!
I have just the printed parts……no hall or magnets
I can send you pics
-
the first one worked!
I have just the printed parts……no hall or magnets
I can send you pics
please do!
-
pm me your email
-
count me in for 2. Pm me when they are ready…Wow.
-
i will leave the pm ing to you
i will post when i have the stick blocks printed
-
Miles used a capacitor on each sensor. Any ideas why?
-
Noise filter i guess.
-
So I thought I saw a thread somewhere that talked about a resistor to change voltage on the PCB in the Throttle to integrate a Hall Sensor in place of the pot. But I haven’t seen test results or a follow up to confirm it actually works Is it that easy? I’m not the type that can write my own firmware nor create circuit designs but I’m not afraid of my soldering iron. I guess my questions are:
Do you have to modify the PCB in the throttle to accept the Hal sensor?
If so what do you do to it?
If you are successful with your new Hall Sensor in your Throttle, are you willing to sell a couple? -
@16th:
I guess my questions are:
Do you have to modify the PCB in the throttle to accept the Hal sensor?
If so what do you do to it?
If you are successful with your new Hall Sensor in your Throttle, are you willing to sell a couple?There are 2 versions of TM throttle pcb’s one working on 5V DC and a (older version i guess) operating at 3.5 V DC.
This image shows the 3.5 V DC version(picture taken from the web,not my picture)
The 5 V DC version is lacking R1 resistor.
I have ordered a hall sensor with a operating supply voltage ranging from 2.7 V up to 6.5 V, so there is no need shorting R1 to get a 5 V supply on the older PCB.
Bear in mind this has to be tested, i have ordered the part and has to be tested.
I have both versions PCB’s so i can test it on both PCB’s.If this works i will do a production run and even convert it to stick Hall sensors.
-
Wow
That is some smart idea.
Have to look into this.Ha my friend. How long ago did I ask you about doing this?
-
i will leave the pm ing to you
i will post when i have the stick blocks printed
the other thread has the pics of the printed pieces
Redneck, I could print to help you out, I do not want to get into constructing the hall and mganets
-
Hi mate.
I know you asked long time ago, real life doesnt come easy sometimes.
The last few months i have been building ICP’s flat out.
Just trying to build this in my spare time. -
Any reason as to why I managed to burn a Hal sensor a couple years ago when soldering to the stick? For the throttle it worked fine. Perhaps reversed cables? I don’t have a polymeter and as I said, I am not good with my hands:p
-
on the firmware side of things check out mmjoy2 much easire to work with with the programing of functions
-
When available, I am in!
-
Don’t know yet when it will be available yet.
Got some new sensors in today, and started testing.
The sensor i got in today has a operating supply voltage of 2.7v up to 6.5v
I have been testing on 3.3v and 5v, and i can confirm it is working on both supply voltages.I have tested it on a pokeys board so the next step would be designing and 3d printing a enclosure which houses the actual sensor but is not bigger then the original pot.
-
Don’t know yet when it will be available yet.
Got some new sensors in today, and started testing.
The sensor i got in today has a operating supply voltage of 2.7v up to 6.5v
I have been testing on 3.3v and 5v, and i can confirm it is working on both supply voltages.I have tested it on a pokeys board so the next step would be designing and 3d printing a enclosure which houses the actual sensor but is not bigger then the original pot.
Great news! Eagerly awaiting!
-
I’ve installed a Hall Sensor in my throttle as per this pic: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1485155&postcount=6
In calibration, it’s not registering any movement on the axis
But there’s not much supplementary information, so I have a couple of Q’s that I think you’ll know the answer to, Redneck.
In the picture I have linked to, is the sensor installed facing the wrong way? I kind of think it might be, I know the wiring is reversed in the throttle sensor but I’ve studied the spec and I think the magnet should face the ‘ramped’ face of the sensor.
Also, which way should I install the magnet? North pole facing the sensor, South facing it or side-on to the sensor face? I have a 5mm cube magnet glued over the aperture for the pot with the north pole facing the sensor.
I have spare sensors so if this one is now fried by being wired incorrectly, it’s not the end of everything
-
I’ve installed a Hall Sensor in my throttle as per this pic: https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1485155&postcount=6
In calibration, it’s not registering any movement on the axis
But there’s not much supplementary information, so I have a couple of Q’s that I think you’ll know the answer to, Redneck.
In the picture I have linked to, is the sensor installed facing the wrong way? I kind of think it might be, I know the wiring is reversed in the throttle sensor but I’ve studied the spec and I think the magnet should face the ‘ramped’ face of the sensor.
Also, which way should I install the magnet? North pole facing the sensor, South facing it or side-on to the sensor face? I have a 5mm cube magnet glued over the aperture for the pot with the north pole facing the sensor.
I have spare sensors so if this one is now fried by being wired incorrectly, it’s not the end of everything
The beveled face of the sensor should point at the magnet , for the north/south pole you should get a compass and determine it that way. I just tested it out of the cougar using a arduino or pokeys. This way i am sure i don’t fire my cougar electronics. Just try different face of the magnet pointing the hall sensor.
What type of sensor are you using?
What is the operating voltage that comes from the pot pins?
Some PCB’s are 3.5V DC , if the operating voltage of the the hall sensor is 5V DC it wont work.Here is a update from my project.
I have been testing my new SMD sensor on the pokeys on 3.3V and 5V DC , it turned out it works perfectly on both supply voltages. This eliminates
the difference of voltages of the Hotas cougar PCB voltages.No knowing it works i 3d printed an enclosre for it not bigger as the original pot. After some runs i got it right.
It dropped in place easily, after re calibrating it worked like a charm.
I didn’t get to it to open up my stick and have a look at the internals. Hopefully next week i get to it.
Now i need to design a custom PCB and get the right connection wires for it. This way it will be much more easy to drop it the cougar.
Know soldering needed. -
The beveled face of the sensor should point at the magnet , for the north/south pole you should get a compass and determine it that way. I just tested it out of the cougar using a arduino or pokeys. This way i am sure i don’t fire my cougar electronics. Just try different face of the magnet pointing the hall sensor.
What type of sensor are you using?
What is the operating voltage that comes from the pot pins?
Some PCB’s are 3.5V DC , if the operating voltage of the the hall sensor is 5V DC it wont work.Here is a update from my project.
I have been testing my new SMD sensor on the pokeys on 3.3V and 5V DC , it turned out it works perfectly on both supply voltages. This eliminates
the difference of voltages of the Hotas cougar PCB voltages.No knowing it works i 3d printed an enclosre for it not bigger as the original pot. After some runs i got it right.
It dropped in place easily, after re calibrating it worked like a charm.
I didn’t get to it to open up my stick and have a look at the internals. Hopefully next week i get to it.
Now i need to design a custom PCB and get the right connection wires for it. This way it will be much more easy to drop it the cougar.
Know soldering needed.BAM! Salivating hard!!! :hungry::hungry::hungry::hungry::hungry: