Not possible…yet!
I had a 270 degree tripple projectort setup aswell.
Only thing you can do is to use a fov that looks good for the center screen and use a headtracker for the sidescreens.
Latest posts made by Ugamanuga
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RE: BMS - Multiple Camera Angles
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RE: Stuttering, FPS stuck, suspect: save files…
edit: wrote something wrong.
but I 've found out another thing.
when using exported mfds or gauges on my mainscreen everything is fluid while it is stuttering when using them on one of my external screens in my pit.
every screen works with 60hz.Second edit:
Using the exported mfds and gauges in network mode now , the stuttering is gone. -
RE: Stuttering, FPS stuck, suspect: save files…
Sorry for necroing this thread but i had the same problem but worse.
solid 60 fps @4k and a 12 screens extracted for the pit.
…but…stuttering as hell.
The “g_bExportRTTTextures” set to 0 didnn’t do the trick.So I tried disabling anisotopic filtering in BMS and forced my GPU to do the job.
The result was a stutterfree image!BTW using an AMD card (my last one).
Hope this helps some ppl.
p.s really like your vids Lorik…keep on the good work!
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RE: Erratic behaviour of Cougar on Tusba Idle Detent is Operating OSB buttons
sounds like you have activated the extended dx buttons 17 to 32.
you can program these buttons to activate when the throttle hits certain values.
if you have insalled the rs calibration tool you can check it pretty easy. -
RE: TQS Cursor double pot drifting: known fixes for this?
the drifting you are experiencing comes from the cheap potis of the microstick.
replacing the whole ministick have done the trick to me.btw, i own a tusba and really like it.
the deadzones can be adjusted independently and you can work around drifting to some extend. -
RE: Help with FSSB Realsimulator Warthog controller setup
have you put the warthog board into the fssb r3?
if you haven’t done it the stick won’t be recognized as a warhog.binding everything in falcon itself should solve any problem you have mentioned above.
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RE: Looking for decent Rudders, recommendations needed :)
I’d kinda like to have a set of Slaw pedals too…but I’d rather build a an accurately modeled F-16 rudder assembly (that works) for my pit project even more…MMV.
that’s the spirit!
the fact that there are no pedals out there that have the real feeling (exept the ones from realsimulator that aren’t produced anymore afaik) is another point for going diy.f-16 pedals work with “pressure”, not so much with movement (about 4cm for the whole axis).
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RE: Looking for decent Rudders, recommendations needed :)
this is awesome!
so why not go down the diy route?if you want to buy pedals, the slaw or crosswind pedals are great for their money and you won’t regret buying them (as a few guys mentioned before).
if you want something solid don’t buy saitek pedals. they are made of plastic all the way. -
RE: Looking for decent Rudders, recommendations needed :)
I did on the set before the Saitek because at that time pretty much nobody was making heels on the floor pedals. Yours look great but a lot of us don’t have access to CNC machines and design software experience. There is 3D printing but I still don’t think most of their plastics are durable to be stepped on all the time.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y36/Snake122/finished.jpg
Without a CNC/machine shop available I can tell you the hardest thing on mine was interfacing the mechanical movements to the pots. I originally wanted to use gears but had a hell of a time finding the right ones. I had to go with a less precise cable and pulley system that worked ok for the brakes at least. Finally found some gears that would work for the rudder and they worked pretty well. Probably overall the cost of the project was $50ish USD, maybe even less since it was mostly recycled materials. I actually did an article on them when I was writing for Computer Pilot magazine.these reminds me of my first pedals!
i used an old steering wheel with a strapped on wooden planka little bit of aluminum, ballbearings and standard tools will work like magic.
btw, don’t use pots… use hall sensors instead.