Shapeways
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Has anyone bought from these guys?
https://www.shapeways.com/search?q=thrustmaster&type=&s=0#more-products
Particularly looking at getting the 13 deg stick base, DMS switch, paddle switch, and possibly the cursor plate too.
Are they accurate and well made?
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I saw the these and thought about it some.
Assuming the pipe’s dimensions are good fitment with the stick grip and base (and from this picture the tailpipe neck’s screw ears look too thick), my other concerns were:
1. Youd have to extend the cable to the ps2 5 pin connector
2. For the 15* angled one…
a. Will the locking colar slip down over the bent post?
b. You would want to use a force mod that has the ability to recenter the forces on the off angle at rest
The FSSB and the new WFC have the ability to do this.Too many unknowns, so i opted to wait it out for someone else to try
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I have the angled tailpiece and it s very good quality
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I bought the DMS switch cap and it’s great - they dhd have the “high rez print” option when I bought, so I’ll probably buy another and a spare in that rez.
As for the angled adapter - using the angled one really doesn’t buy you anything unless you mount your stick in actual cockpit geometry. I have one of these stems from Ribbs for my pit setup - if the printed one is anything like what I have -
- yes - it should be made such that the stock ring will fit over it and slip into place.
- if the ears are a bit too think that is a good thing, as you can use a jeweler’s file to fit your personal grip and eliminate any and all wobble in the assembly.
- pretty sure there is enough length in the wires - and even so, I think you’ll need to clip and re solder to put the wires through the hole and to the connector in any event.
I’ll probably end up buying one of these printed adapters even though I have the cast bronze one from Ribbs…just because I’m a geek like that. My only concern is just how much force one can apply to the printed one. I know there are also a variety of metals you can request.
In any event - I’ve found dealing through Shapeways to be a no problem; but items are only as good as the skills of the modeller, so pay attention to the pictures and just choose carefully. There’s a ton of neat stuff available there…and if you come up with your own 3D model you can also have them print that, too.
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I bought the DMS switch cap and it’s great - they dhd have the “high rez print” option when I bought, so I’ll probably buy another and a spare in that rez.
As for the angled adapter - using the angled one really doesn’t buy you anything unless you mount your stick in actual cockpit geometry. I have one of these stems from Ribbs for my pit setup - if the printed one is anything like what I have -
- yes - it should be made such that the stock ring will fit over it and slip into place.
- if the ears are a bit too think that is a good thing, as you can use a jeweler’s file to fit your personal grip and eliminate any and all wobble in the assembly.
- pretty sure there is enough length in the wires - and even so, I think you’ll need to clip and re solder to put the wires through the hole and to the connector in any event.
I’ll probably end up buying one of these printed adapters even though I have the cast bronze one from Ribbs…just because I’m a geek like that. My only concern is just how much force one can apply to the printed one. I know there are also a variety of metals you can request.
In any event - I’ve found dealing through Shapeways to be a no problem; but items are only as good as the skills of the modeller, so pay attention to the pictures and just choose carefully. There’s a ton of neat stuff available there…and if you come up with your own 3D model you can also have them print that, too.
Yeah the force was my concern too, so if I were to buy one, I’d buy the stainless steel one, but it’s £50. I’m buying FCC3.
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I have the stainless one. It is very strong, works great with my FFSB. Works just like the original one. Stock ring fits fine and plug is a tight fit but passes through the centre hole. Make sure you don’t order the prototype one. Ask him first for the correct one.
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I have the stainless one. It is very strong, works great with my FFSB. Works just like the original one. Stock ring fits fine and plug is a tight fit but passes through the centre hole. Make sure you don’t order the prototype one. Ask him first for the correct one.
Pictures of this please?
Did you have to lengthen the plug connector?
Did you have to adjust the FSSB at rest at 15* center point for the pitch force sensor?
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Sorry, no pics, it is inside my stick. It works exactly like the original one except it is angled at 13 degrees forward. No adjustments, no lengthening. Install it exactly like the original one and screw it to the base. I did install a collar to stop the play that also occurs with the original tailpiece.
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Sorry, no pics, it is inside my stick. It works exactly like the original one except it is angled at 13 degrees forward. No adjustments, no lengthening. Install it exactly like the original one and screw it to the base. I did install a collar to stop the play that also occurs with the original tailpiece.
Wich collar do you use?
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I have the beta angled stainless steel tailpiece plus the older version of the DMS cap and the larger paddle switch.
I had to make some minor adjustments to the tailpiece to get it flush with the bottom plate of the connector on the FSSB. You can see the pics on the comments thread below the piece at https://www.shapeways.com/product/XRFBJD5SX/thrustmaster-joystick-tailpiece-13-deg-angle-m?optionId=58918864&li=ostatus (messages from Focaldesign on August 2016).
Been using it extensively for the past year without issues.Pics from the adjusted cougar:
- https://www.dropbox.com/s/ji3l7aztqrfy4ft/stick-1.jpg?dl=0
- https://www.dropbox.com/s/6c1xu45fkr166hh/stick-2.jpg?dl=0
At this very moment I have ordered another tailpiece for a second hand Warthog stick I got my hands on, together with the newer DCS switch in metal.
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Which collar do you use?
Made my own out of wood and painted it black. I will make a plastic one in future like the one posted on this forum. It just needs to be a support that takes the pressure off the handle and stop the screws from backing out. The tailpiece design is a bit sloppy in that respect. I think they used the Cougar tailpiece in the WH and there is a hair difference in the stick designs. This also might contribute to the tailpiece breaking in half, but that is just an anecdotal assumption, not a fact.
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I think they used the Cougar tailpiece in the WH
I agree with that as I modded my WH sticks with the Cougar originally designed angled tailpiece and it fitted perfectly.
That was done way before shapeways was known and the parts were made on VP in brassThe WH handle so modded had more Y play than a Cougar handle modded identically, so I tend to agree with the “and there is a hair difference in the stick designs”
btw:
look at the purpose of the forward inclined tailpiece, in a pit, it actually sets the handle straight, not full forward as one might think
This is due to the angle of the stickbase not resting horizontallyHere’s the with without difference (with cougar stick)
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@Red:
I agree with that as I modded my WH sticks with the Cougar originally designed angled tailpiece and it fitted perfectly.
That was done way before shapeways was known and the parts were made on VP in brassThe WH handle so modded had more Y play than a Cougar handle modded identically, so I tend to agree with the “and there is a hair difference in the stick designs”
btw:
http://www.ravico.com/ST/cockpit/viper2/755_ribbs_warthog.png
look at the purpose of the forward inclined tailpiece, in a pit, it actually sets the handle straight, not full forward as one might think
This is due to the angle of the stickbase not resting horizontallyHere’s the with without difference (with cougar stick)
http://www.ravico.com/ST/cockpit/viper2/610_inclinedstick_dual.jpgThanks dude. For £50 it probably isn’t worth getting, as it will be fitted to a horizontal surface. Still keen to see if the DMS and paddle are worth going for though.
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Still keen to see if the DMS and paddle are worth going for though.
I like mine over the wrong & smaller version of the cougar. The paddle on the warthog is larger already, but still has the wrong dms, so I have a new one ordered for that one too.
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Thanks dude. For £50 it probably isn’t worth getting, as it will be fitted to a horizontal surface. Still keen to see if the DMS and paddle are worth going for though.
It is vertical to the horizon but not the pilot. See the incline of the seat in Red Dog’s pics. It makes the stick incline forward to the pilots position. Unless you have a realistic inclined seat like RedDog, it should be leaning forward if your seat is level. Its about ergonomics and where your arms are vs stick, not level.
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technically you’re right raptor, but in our reclined seat position, our arm is not folded at 90° but more
so if you’re seating on an horizontal seat, your arm will fold to 90° and the not reclined handle will fit your hand ergonomicallyEach situation needs to be studied on a case by case scenario. It will not only depends if mounted horizontally but where it is mounted.
If it’s on the desk, the reclined tailpiece actually is less ergonomic than the straight mounting (imho) as it becomes way harder to reach the button due to your rotated wrist - which is exactly what should be avoided)
if the stick is mounted at the knee level, then the reclined piece becomes more important, because the arm angle can be opened up and the handle rest in hand ergonomically as wellimho, the reclined tailpiece should only be considered for mounting at the leg level, not on desks
then yes, the next consideration is how the pilot is seated -
@Red:
imho, the reclined tailpiece should only be considered for mounting at the leg level, not on desks
then yes, the next consideration is how the pilot is seatedAs mine is at leg level. Desktop level is terrible ergonomics no matter what you use. In the beginning I used two chairs for my HOTAS. Way better than desktop holding your arms in the air for hours.
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yep, fully agreed
the two chair concept is what planehazza use i believe ok ok, much nicer i reckon !! -
This is an older WIP shot:
Not much has changed, except I have my MFDs mounted. My thigh is parallel to the ground and is about the level of the cougar base.
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IMHO, if your arms and thighs are parallel, you could use the 13 degree tailpiece. It is not a game changer, but getting your HOTAS to thigh level is though.