Another Hall Sensor upgrade
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well diview was not accurate at all as ccp was not accurate also. From Foxy the issue is obvious.
I don’t have the energy right now to redo. I took it for a spin as is and I found it smooth.
In aar it was way easier to keep up for speed…
but my stick center play needs to be worked again so i couldn’t fully enjoy it as i couldnt center with the tanker . -
Were you viewing the raw data in DIView? I don’t think you can get more accurate than DIView raw Data. I tested it with hard coded 16bit data and it is always right on. I can’t speak for the calibration transferring though.
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raw data?
I dont recall if i made such a selection, i had a view similar to your video.Edit: I just found the raw data in DIView and you are right it shows the same issue in my case as Foxy test axis does.
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My little package arrived this week. Thanks Mike and UK customs for not holding it up or charging me duty on it, yet?
Watched the videos a couple to times, then went to work.
Couple of minor points.
Joystick - on my set, the pitch axis part needed a bit of filing on the left hand side to open the gap before it slid into place. Otherwise perfect.
Throttle, the thrustmaster ribbon cable must have been close to the minimum length because there was very little room to position it with the sensor and ring in place. Got there in the end.
All working great now.
Thanks Mike.
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Hello Miles,
Thanks a lot for the throttle kit. Received it last week and it seems just great.
I have a problem though. I’ve followed your instructions to the letter for installation and calibration and whatever I do, I can’t seem to get to zero for minimum value of the throttle axis. DIView tells me I can’t go lower than 39. BTW, I use the TUSBA R2, which should give me raw values of 0 - 4095 and my Cougar has the “old” PCB. I transformed it to bypass the resistor in order to get enough voltage. So now in BMS, I can have max value and reach full afterburner but the throttle values seem to stop at idle detent and won’t go further down. Do you think it’s because of the Cougar old PCB ? Or the TUSBA R2? Would it be better with TUSBA R1? I’m at a loss here, any help would be much appreciated.
Kind regardsJudy
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Hi Judy,
If you just re-calibrate you should be fine. 39 is close enough to zero and the loss of resolution with TUSBA is imperceptible. The throttle can be tricky to zero exactly and its really not required. It becomes more critical if you running 8 bit resolution (0-255).
Let us know how you make out after recalibration.
Miles -
My little package arrived this week. Thanks Mike and UK customs for not holding it up or charging me duty on it, yet?
Watched the videos a couple to times, then went to work.
Couple of minor points.
Joystick - on my set, the pitch axis part needed a bit of filing on the left hand side to open the gap before it slid into place. Otherwise perfect.
Throttle, the thrustmaster ribbon cable must have been close to the minimum length because there was very little room to position it with the sensor and ring in place. Got there in the end.
All working great now.
Thanks Mike.
Hi sabre,
The ribbon cable can be tricky. You can usually pull some extra out from inside the handle. I am sorry and surprised you had to file the joystick magnet holder as I test fit each one (I will check them more closely in the future). As long as the set screw is out enough they should be tight pressing them down. The set screw is almost not even needed on most. But it should be tightend anyway.
Thanks for the feedback
Miles -
Hello Miles,
I did just that, several times already, but to no avail. It’s just as if the throttle axis wouldn’t go lower than 39. I know that it’s close to zero and I don’t really need it to go that far down but in BMS, for instance, the throttle axis goes all the way up to AB, 100% of physical displacement corresponding to 100% of throttle value, but going down, the minimum value is reached before the end of physical movement. I must be doing something wrong but right now, it beats me.
Thanks for your helpJudy
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Hello Miles,
I did just that, several times already, but to no avail. It’s just as if the throttle axis wouldn’t go lower than 39. I know that it’s close to zero and I don’t really need it to go that far down but in BMS, for instance, the throttle axis goes all the way up to AB, 100% of physical displacement corresponding to 100% of throttle value, but going down, the minimum value is reached before the end of physical movement. I must be doing something wrong but right now, it beats me.
Thanks for your helpJudy
Same here. Can go down to 24 and fixed the sensor on that place. But when recalibrated and testing in BMS. The first 5mm of throttle movement don’t do anything and then it starts increasing the values.
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Hi Guys,
It can be tricky to get all of the dead space out, 5mm is pretty good. If you really want to keep messing with it you can do 2 things.- Split the difference by rotating the ring so you have 2.5mm dead-space on each end. (a small amount of dead-space on each end is not a bad thing, it ensures you always reach full idle and full throttle every time)
- Slide the ring laterally. There is a sweet spot that can be hard to find. Its best to start out with the magnet ring close to the sensor at idle and just slightly (1 to 2mm) away from touching the the top case. Then slide the magnet ring laterally away from the sensor until the reading in DIView raw data just starts to move. At that point slide it back toward the sensor slightly so you get idle. Then move the stick to full throttle and check readings and rotate the magnet as necessary. If dead-space is still to much, you can then slide the magnet closer to the sensor. Be aware you will get to a point if you move the magnet ring to far away from the sensor the the readings will reach 0 but then start to move towards the center again before the throttle reaches its limits. (basically, as you pull the throttle back it will reach idle and then start to climb again)
- If you are running TUSBA you should just be able to place the magnet ring as close as possible to the sensor (but leave clearance gap) and just make the idle and max throttle the same distance from min and max values. Then re-calibrate and you wont have any dead-space. You will have a slight loss of resolution but it does not matter because the TUSBA has a high resolution compared to the 8bit throttle to cougar stick.
I think some of confusion may be from thinking not getting to zero is causing the dead-space. When in fact gettin to zero has no efect on deadspace after re-calibration. What couses the deadspace is when the magnet ring is placed to far away from the sensor causing the magnetic field to not change while it rotates at the end of its movement.
I hope this helps
Miles -
I have the TUSBA R2, the problem is the opposite. In Tusba I can set a start/end when in idle it would read 25 for example, then it is reset to 0 in Tusba. But for me it’s the opposite. the first 5mm of the throttle it keeps reading 0, and then it starts registering values
No disaster, just mentioning. -
If the magent ring is to far away it may not get to zero but still not show a field change for a end of movement. I know we are kind of splitting hairs here but if you slid the magnet ring closer to sensor you would probably loose your 5mm of dead-space.
Thanks for the feedback.
Miles -
Excuse my ignorance but since the readings are so close to zero values ain’t supposed that manual calibration takes care of the issue? Meaning if you have some raw data input at idle and with calibration you say it’s your zero point then it should be zero reading.
Ain’t this what manual calibration is supposed to do?Are you guys loading - setting the manual calibration from ccp before falcon?
Sent from TapaTalk
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Hey Arty, I’m not using the CCP to calibrate my Cougar stick just the Windows calibration routine in Devices and Printers. My Cougar is connected through a TUSBA so I don’t need the CCP. I’ll try recalibrating it again this afternoon and see what happens.
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Well, I recalibrated my modified Cougar TQS 3 times and nothing changes. I even started the whole hall sensor installation process again, to no avail. I’ll try with a TUSBA R1 to see what happens and with another, newer, TQS board.
Judy
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Hi Judy,
Don’t calibrate with the Windows Calibration, instead, use RS_HID_DEV_TOOL. only for calibration.
First pair your TQS and TUSBA in their software then calibrate.
I had some issues and Bartolome at RS replied “- We suggest don’t use the Game Controller Setup Calibration page, we suggest the RS_HID_DEV_TOOL.” this is contrary to what they say in their TUSBA documentation however, it worked for me.
Be sure to clear any calibration you performed in the Windows calibration before you calibrate in RS Hid dev tool.
You should find Miles’ mod will work like a charm after this……
Dave.
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Hey Ddoc,
I followed your advice and it seems to work much better. Now I just need to replace my ANT pot and my Cougar will be as good as new.
Thanks againJudy
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Update for Miles.
Have been perfecting AAR and formation flying,and has been really enjoyable with the Hall sensor in the TQS……
thank you Miles…!!
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I’m trying to resurrect my old battered Cougar that I’ve listed for sale several times and not had the heart to let it go.
I might be interested in some of these once I’ve rebuilt mine and gotten rid of the slop/play in the gimbals. I’ll be in touch soon!
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