Fssb R3 and TUSBA questions
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If you want realistic functionality with the Cougar (or WH stick), use DX only, no softwrae required. I only use DX only on my TUSBA and FSSB R2 for maximum realism.
If you want stuff like timed taps for extra, non realistic functionality (eg. 0.5 sec tap to activate TIR center), TUSBA won’t do it. AFAIK, TUSBA won’t do shifted key presses either. The FSSB changes no functionality of the stick with or without software.R1 and R2 are for Cougar stick and R3 is for WH stick.
Hello how is managed the nws/ missile cycle without programming in the joystick? I mean the manual assigns a different function for the s1 switch when tapped <0.5s and more than 0.5s to cycle between the same type of misiles or change an AA missile type and I think it is the real thing ir I am wrong?
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Hello how is managed the nws/ missile cycle without programming in the joystick? I mean the manual assigns a different function for the s1 switch when tapped <0.5s and more than 0.5s to cycle between the same type of misiles or change an AA missile type and I think it is the real thing ir I am wrong?
If it’s a real function, and implemented in BMS, the sim will handle that logic for you, no need to program it yourself on top.
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Hello how is managed the nws/ missile cycle without programming in the joystick? I mean the manual assigns a different function for the s1 switch when tapped <0.5s and more than 0.5s to cycle between the same type of misiles or change an AA missile type and I think it is the real thing ir I am wrong?
NWS steering works when WoW, then cycles weapons etc. as per manual when airborne. DX S1 also performs as manual says if DX command is used. If you use DX, it does exactly how the manual says it does and is realistic. No need for separate functions programmed…… the DX commands are quite elegant.
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Not to mention that White Eagle is working on an FCC3 solution for the Warthog stick…which totally replaces the Warthog stick PCB. Not only a cool idea because it eliminates the need to use the outdated Cougar PCB, but also leaves you the intact Warthog base to use for another project. Already have an FCC3 on a Cougar base, but REALLY looking forward to grabbing one of these to use in my pit project with the far superior Warthog grip!
http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php/topic,10735.msg156693.html#msg156693
I applaud this effort by White-Eagle, being one of his customers. Its important to note that this WHog force mod will not be compatible to TARGET as it will be a pure DX controller.
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… What functionality will I loose vs using a FSSB R2 witht the cougar base and throttle connected to it using the TARGET software?
Regards.The Whog has a CMS hat with a down button action, the Cougar does not.
That being said, I use the Whog FSS on the Cougar-FCC3 base because i like the Whog stick grip better.
Cougar sticks had two different paint treatments over its production runs. One was matt black and one was shiny black. One was more succeptable to palm sweat/salt than the other and would come off eventually. The Whog does not suffer this issue afaik. Real FSS eventually wear through too, so its not that bad of a thing unless you like them minty like I do.
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The Whog has a CMS hat with a down button action, the Cougar does not.
That being said, I use the Whog FSS on the Cougar-FCC3 base because i like the Whog stick grip better.
Cougar sticks had two different paint treatments over its production runs. One was matt black and one was shiny black. One was more succeptable to palm sweat/salt than the other and would come off eventually. The Whog does not suffer this issue afaik. Real FSS eventually wear through too, so its not that bad of a thing unless you like them minty like I do.
Just to avoid confusion - by down, AV8R mean’s depressing. Most people read CMS down as CMS Aft - I see the confusion frequently, so thought I’d quickly stick my nose in
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Just to avoid confusion - by down, AV8R mean’s depressing. Most people read CMS down as CMS Aft - I see the confusion frequently, so thought I’d quickly stick my nose in
I think perhaps the Warthog had the same issues with the paint. I have a few Warthogs, and one of them which is from the first run has quite a bit of paint wearing off. And as you wrote I still prefer that stick as it shows the most use and looks legit.
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I’ve only recently put a WHog stick grip onto my Cougar base (with force mod), and the hog stick paint has been good thus far. I’ve had both of the Cougar sticks and have noticed the difference in the paint jobs. Same semi sweaty hand.
Not to start a double entendre thing, but… I’ve read that those who use alcohol based hand lotion will degrade the paint faster. Now if you’re flying drunk and spilling Vodka and brews on the controllers, well that might be realistic too
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To my simple way of boiling it down, I see the TARGET software (GUI or Script) as a means to:
- relieve the user from the DX 32 buttons and another 32 for shifted buttons per DX controller accounting and assignment chore
- ability to run a customized game function to stick hat/button/slider/toggle mapping profile in either graphical or text modes. Thus eliminating the game specific mapping file such as BMS Keymap file and its hex encoded function format.
- ability to have user defined axes curves, button delays, holds, nesting; which is good for menu commands
- ability to combine multiple TM controllers into one virtual controller not limited to the DX 32 button limitation
- ability to control the LEDs on the WarHog throttle base, for gear status or flight surface states, etc.
That being said, I just use a manually customized version of the BMS FULL KEYMAPPING file and as DX controllers. For DCS, I use their built in mapping GUI. So while I did use TARGET GUI for IL2-CLOD, I really don’t use TARGET much anymore.
Now if my hotas use model was to use as many sim functions as possible, and didn’t care about the realistic FSS and TQS mapping BMS Keymap provides, or if I was using the Warthog throttle instead of a TQS, then I might consider using TARGET.
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I applaud this effort by White-Eagle, being one of his customers. Its important to note that this WHog force mod will not be compatible to TARGET as it will be a pure DX controller.
Which is fine by me!
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I am having problems assigning rthe DX keys to the correct switches in the throttle. I am running the FFSB r3 and TUSBA with crosswind pedals. I have tried modifying the order of the devices in devicesorting.txt file but if I put the TUSBA on second place the first button of the throttle is #32 so it assigns it to an OSB instead of the radio comms and so on on every other switch of the throttle. Can you help me?
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Each DX device has max 32 buttons available for windows, so it’s perfectly normal that your Tubsa will start at 32 when it’s set to second place. It’s actually #33 but BMS counts #1 as item 0.Just assign the correct callbacks to the 32 in sequence, no?
And that little difference is important to catch when manually editing BMS keymapping files.
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Ok I have assigned the correct dx buttons to the handle and throttle. Pushing the pinky button allows the shifted layer in the stick but with the TUSBA the pinky wont show the new shifted buttons for the throttle. I am running the FSSB R3 directly to the realsim pcb not using the thrustmaster warthog pcb. In this situation I lose the shifted layer in throttle buttons no?
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no, it should work. I use shifted buttons of the throttle for idle detent for example.
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But are you using the fssb r3 directly to the pc or have installed the thrustmaster pcb from the warthog to the fssb r3?
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But are you using the fssb r3 directly to the pc or have installed the thrustmaster pcb from the warthog to the fssb r3?
I have a Cougar with RS FSSB1 on the Cougar PCB. But if you have issues with throttle via TUBSA, what FCC you have doesn’t matter. TUSBA makes the throttle a separate HID device. So you just need to know which button number BMS sees for the switch you wish to use in shifted function.
Also note that by default BMS sets shifted layers to start with a 256 number offset, but if you have more devices, it can happen that those 256 etc numbers are still used by Windows for your regular HID devices so you need to increase the offset in BMS config so that the offset starts with a number out of the regular HID range. -
Thanks I have the fssb the tusba the rudder pedals and thats it. When I presa the shift un the stick it se es correctly new numbers i.e. 68 69 etc but un the throttle it just shows the same dx number shifted or not. Should I look the key file?
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Thanks I have the fssb the tusba the rudder pedals and thats it. When I presa the shift un the stick it se es correctly new numbers i.e. 68 69 etc but un the throttle it just shows the same dx number shifted or not. Should I look the key file?
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I have the Cougar, Tusba & rusba.
Note that in BMS it will never show the shifted number. It will only work once you are inside the pit.
So take my example for reference. I have pinkyshift + uncage (push range button on throttle) for idle detent. When I push the uncage in BMS setup page, it shows 140.
So in my keyfile it uses SimToggleMissileCage 139 8 -2 0 0x0 0. See it’s 139 and not 140 because nr 1 in Windows is nr 0 in BMS logic.
When I want to set the idle detent on the shifted layer, I add 256. So 139+256=395. SimThrottleIdleDetent 395 8 -2 0 0x0 0
Also, don’t forget to set the pinky shift in both normal and shifted number! In my case SimHotasPinkyShift 34 -1 -2 0 0x0 0 SimHotasPinkyShift 290 -1 -2 0 0x0 0 -
I will try that. However in my stick setup page in game Isee the dx button numbers and If I press the pinky I see the sam numbers +32 and that wont happen with the throttle buttons.
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