TUSBA Integration
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ddoc I had just typed a long answer but I guess the login had expired :'/ More to follow. Have to run out for ribs at a freidns house. Thanks for sticking with me!
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Hi ddoc,
like I said, thanks for your patience and help so far.
I went into BMS and did indeed change to have the Rotation Z axis from the tusba assigned to the throttle. This had the interesting change of making the full through move to the initial part of the throttle (idle to half MIL), instead of what it was before (the AB section).
My axes are as follows:
Radar Antenna: X rotation tusba
Radar Cursor: Y axis tusba
Radar cursor: X axis tusba (these make more sense to me when I’m moving the cursor in game)
Range knob: Y rotation
these all seem to work well enough. I did add some dead zone in HID for the radar cursor as it tended to wander someI recalibrated the throttle in HID, to include the settings from Idle to AFT. Of note, I don’t get a green light on Min or Max, but I do for Idle, Mil and Aft.
I did try and calibrate the blue bar in BMS by both right clicking the mouse and left clicking to set AB and idle, but that seemed to have no affect, as the blue bar goes from idle to full AB in about 1/3 of it entire movement. I don’y however, follow what you were saying about the stick selection in controller. If I change it from HOTAS to TUSBA, it doesn’t keep any of my selections, and then, when I switch back to HOTAS (the stick part of the controller), I have to re-select all the settings. When I select TUSBA as the input device, the throttle still does not respond correctly.
This leads me to believe maybe it’s my HAL sensor? I installed the vipergear HAL a while back, but maybe I did something incorrectly? Any thoughts on that? It sure does seem to work OK in HID though…
I flashed the firmware to the latest setting when I installed the TUSBA last week, is there a way for me to verify what load it has?
Also, I see in HID there are buttons 17-32 that I can assign, do you use those? If so, how? Would be nice just to have a few of those for things like gear etc…
Do you have a link to a solid user manual? Any thoughts on their stick mod?
Regards,
- bruzzer
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The following are screenshots of my BMS settings showing which axis I have applied to my TQS, I have also included screens of my HID settings and DCC waiting for me to load the firmware - if you click load in DCC it should open in the TUSBA folder which should show you a firmware file, I only have firmware version 1.07 which I can e mail you if necessary? In the Docs folder that should also be displayed, you will find the full user manual for the TUSBA again, if you don’t have it I can e mail it to you.
Although the manual describes calibration using Windows Game Controllers, Realsimulator, if you speak with them, they will advise NOT to use Windows Game Controllers for calibration hence why I advised to reset controller. I also advise to update the firmware using the same firmware that’s already installed, for me, it’s 1.07 doing this, I believe will cancel any calibration carried over from Windows Game Controllers if that was ever used? So you’re effectively starting from new, calibrate ONLY in the HID tool - if your x y cursor is drifting, this calibration can be refined in DIView but for now only deal with HID tool. Once calibrated go into BMS setup and setup your TQS, my settings in the screens above may or may not work for you though I’m guessing they should, worth a try at least if you’re having any issues.
Regards the FSSB3 Lighting mod, brilliant, very expensive but brilliant nonetheless and their RUSBA is equally brilliant for reviving older gameport pedals, without these I’d have retired years ago!
Edit: location of manual C:\Users\Your User Name\AppData\Roaming\RealSimulator Data\TUSBA\Doc
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Hi ddoc,
I unplugged my TUSBA then restarted my computer, plugged it back in and DCC confirms that the firmware is 1.07. Below are the screen shots of my DCC both at idle and full AB, with a comparison shot of yours.
I will log into BMS now and verify the axis assignments. I did some google searching to see if it’s possible to verify potentiometers and their output but didn’t find anything (except taking it apart and using lab equipment). I did notice that you had the axis mapped to your RUSBA. Pretty cool!
Also, can you select targets with your radar cursor enable click? I remember being able to do that…
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If you haven’t already you should re-load the firmware > in DCC click Load and follow the instructions to disconnect\re-connect your TQS - doing this should ensure you’re starting from new and wiping out any calibration that was completed using Windows Game Controllers, this is what I believe is causing your throttle to not respond properly in BMS Controllers page. While the HID software is great, BMS, I believe will still try to use the Windows Calibration data so, it’s best to stay away from Windows Game Controllers Calibration, only ever use HID to calibrate.
When I first installed my TUSBA I followed the Realsimulator manual which advised to use Windows Game Controllers calibration. I ended up with a similar problem to yours albeit, the blue bar didn’t appear until I had physically moved the throttle to the AB position. I contacted Realsimulator who advised me NOT to use Windows Game Controllers calibration - a contradiction to their advice in their manual - I flashed the firmware and started again, this in turn solved the throttle problem. In BMS you may need to try different axis for the throttle until you find the one that operates the blue bar properly but you MUST flash your firmware first then Pair and Calibrate using HID software, remeber to calibrate the Idle, Mil and Aft positions too. At this point you can go into BMS and setup your controller by assigning axis and buttons, Idle and Aft.
Unfortunately, your screenshots are not showing for me, all I see is:
Attachment 37774
Attachment 37775Selecting targets is now done by putting the FCR cursor on the target and then TMS up to lock the target…… see -34 page 56 and 61 for a description of Target Management amongst many other pages.
The cursor enable control is a four-way joystick with a press capability. The joystick moves the radar cursors (or the cursors of whatever format is active on the active MFD). The z-axis (press) toggles between weapon launch modes (depending on the active weapon). For most missiles it toggles between slave mode (follows radar) or boresight mode (looks straight ahead).
Again, going through the -34 will provide you with a better\fuller understanding of its operation. I find the search function to be very useful when looking for specific information.
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ddoc,
EDIT: I WAS ABLE TO FLASH THE TUSBA. when I try and flash the TUSBA, it appears grey in the software. If I unplug it and plug it back in, it flashed black (ready to be updated) and then grey after a second (as if not detected), and won’t let me flash the TUSBA. Any idea?
With that done, I’m going back into BMS now to see what happens.
EDIT: Unfortunately not good news. The X/Y cursors wander and I get no response from the throttle, even though in the settings it shows some (very limited) motion. Basically full throw of the throttle only amounts to 1/4 of the blue bar filling up. In game I get no response from the throttle at all.
Cheers ddoc. Hoping the pictures help.
- bruzzer
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Ok…I just set up my TUSBA R2 on a new machine with BMS 4.34 under Win 10 and I ended up having to do a dance I’d forgotten - yes, some of the labels in the firmware don’t exactly mate up to what the axes actually do, but you can noodle through that. My throttle was not going through full range of travel, and my Cursor was drifting all over the place…what I ended up having to do was to go into the Win Game Controller panel for the R2 and calibrate the whole throttle; in particular Win 10 had my Cursor stick sitting way off center.
This got my Cursor to become actually centered, then I could go back into the R/S HID panel and set things up - now my Cursor is not drifting at all and is very controllable. I wasn’t able to flash my R2 (don’t think I need to really) but it’s because I don’t have any firmware files resident on this machine…I need to remedy that. Still working on the short throttle throw, a few more dance steps to do I guess…
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Thanks Stevie, let us know if you manage to solve it.
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ddoc,
EDIT: I WAS ABLE TO FLASH THE TUSBA. when I try and flash the TUSBA, it appears grey in the software. If I unplug it and plug it back in, it flashed black (ready to be updated) and then grey after a second (as if not detected), and won’t let me flash the TUSBA. Any idea?
With that done, I’m going back into BMS now to see what happens.
EDIT: Unfortunately not good news. The X/Y cursors wander and I get no response from the throttle, even though in the settings it shows some (very limited) motion. Basically full throw of the throttle only amounts to 1/4 of the blue bar filling up. In game I get no response from the throttle at all.
Cheers ddoc. Hoping the pictures help.
- bruzzer
I would click on the RESET button to turn the Aft from green back to grey.
I would then click on the Min button, do as the window that opens tells you, “put your throttle at the Min position” then press OK but keep your eye on the red Mx flag at the throttles green bar.
Now do the same with Max button but this time keep your eye on the red Mn flag of the throttles green bar.
The green bar for the throttle axis should now no longer be dark green but either no colour or light green depending on the throttles position - no colour if it’s at Max full forward(Mn) or full, light green colour if it’s in the Min fully back (Mx) position.
Let us know how you get on, please.
Please post a screenshot of HID when you have done the above.
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Hi ddoc,
So I reset the throttle CAL, and I see the Mx (min thrust) and the Mn (max thrust) flags. I’m not sure I follow in regards to “keep an eye on them.” They seem to be fairly static in range when I reset their location.
I actually wan to say the first time I ran HID I did see full throttle movement.
I then set Idle and Aft again. Unfortunately the biggest part of the throttle line is still dark green.
Also including a pic of how Windows is seeing my TUSBA in the hardware section in case that makes any difference.
Cheers
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Okay, for now, let’s concentrate on getting the throttle calibrated properly. Don’t bother calibrating the idle, mil and aft buttons in HID, these can only be set in BMS
Press the reset button in HID so none of the buttons are green - RESET will change to SET.
When you have the above SET showing for idle, mil and aft buttons, i.e. not green, click the Min button, move your throttle fully back and press OK.
Now do the same with the Max button only this time push your throttle fully forward and press OK.
The red flags should now be at each extent of the green bar showing you have full movement, if not, press reset to defaults in windows hardware then repeat the above.
Please do the above and post a screenshot of your results - the whole page, not just the lower part.
Also, have you pressed the pair tusba with throttle button since updating the firmware? if not, then please do so and repeat the above.
If the above makes no difference then please run DIView and post screenshots of the raw values - one with throttle fully back and a second when fully forward please.
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Okay, for now, let’s concentrate on getting the throttle calibrated properly. Don’t bother calibrating the idle, mil and aft buttons in HID, these can only be set in BMS
Press the reset button in HID so none of the buttons are green - RESET will change to SET.
When you have the above SET showing for idle, mil and aft buttons, i.e. not green, click the Min button, move your throttle fully back and press OK.
Now do the same with the Max button only this time push your throttle fully forward and press OK.
The red flags should now be at each extent of the green bar showing you have full movement, if not, press reset to defaults in windows hardware then repeat the above.
Please do the above and post a screenshot of your results - the whole page, not just the lower part.
Also, have you pressed the pair tusba with throttle button since updating the firmware? if not, then please do so and repeat the above.
If the above makes no difference then please run DIView and post screenshots of the raw values - one with throttle fully back and a second when fully forward please.
Does anyone have a full step by step procedure to configure the Tusba 2 with the Cougar throttle on Windows 10? I ordered the Tusba and would like a smooth sailing configuration.
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Hi ddoc,
So I reset the throttle CAL, and I see the Mx (min thrust) and the Mn (max thrust) flags. I’m not sure I follow in regards to “keep an eye on them.” They seem to be fairly static in range when I reset their location.
I actually wan to say the first time I ran HID I did see full throttle movement.
I then set Idle and Aft again. Unfortunately the biggest part of the throttle line is still dark green.
Also including a pic of how Windows is seeing my TUSBA in the hardware section in case that makes any difference.
Cheers
Hi bruzzer, not sure if you resolved your issue but I got my Tusba R2 last week and had similar problems. Bart over at the Tusba website helped me along. What caused my problem(drifting cursor, throttle not calibrating to max) was Window 10. If you go to the windows joystick/gamepad test page and do not see any axis or buttons, you have to go into the device preferences in windows, find Tusba, click remove device. Then disconnect and reconnect Tusba from the USB. Drivers will auto load. Reclaim the device using the HID software. Then do full calibration of all axis again and then calibration of each individual axis. Set min, max and mil settings for throttle. After that all axis should work fine including the cursor. I am truly impressed by the improvement I see with Bart"s software and the Tusba with the Cougar throttle. Cursor works better than ever did in old Thrustmaster software. I used to have to move the throttle to afterburner and back to idle for the throttle to be fully active after spawning into BMS. Now, it is ready on the spot. The Tusba R2 has given my Cougar throttle new life. I mothballed my Thrustmaster cougar joystick and use my Warthog stick.
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Hi, I’m also running a Cougar throttle with the TUSBA converter and am having issues and mapping my throttle in 4.34. Sorry for the noobie question, but where can I find the HID tool?
UPDATE: I found the DDC and HID software but am still having issues calibrating and mapping functions on my Cougar throttle, particularly the Radar Cursor/Enable microstick. Any ideas?
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This is a follow-up thanks/question to the July 10 post by TheSilkMan:
First, thanks very much for the advice about what to do if the axes don’t show up in the Windows 10 game controller “Test” page. I didn’t use Win10 to calibrate my TUSBA TQS R2 (I used the RS_HID program), but your advice about deleting the TUSBA R2 in the Win10 game controller page, unplugging, replugging, and recalibrating, was very helpful. Prior to following your method, I was having problems with the throttle settings not working correctly in the sim, even though they looked good in the RS_HID program. Thanks for posting that!
Here’s my question: In your post on July 10, you said that with your TUSBA, when you spawn into the sim, you don’t have to push the throttle forward into AB and back again, in order to get your Cougar throttle to function.
Was there some extra step you did, in order to achieve that? I seem to have my TUSBA TQS R2 working properly, but I still need to push into AB in order to “wake up” my engine.
I’m using 4.34 U1, and I’m using the Alternative Launcher to assign my axes and buttons.
If I can figure out how to avoid having to push the throttle into AB, and then pull it back, in order to have an “awakened” throttle, that will be great.
Thanks for the helpful advice!
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Hi bruzzer, not sure if you resolved your issue but I got my Tusba R2 last week and had similar problems. Bart over at the Tusba website helped me along. What caused my problem(drifting cursor, throttle not calibrating to max) was Window 10. If you go to the windows joystick/gamepad test page and do not see any axis or buttons, you have to go into the device preferences in windows, find Tusba, click remove device. Then disconnect and reconnect Tusba from the USB. Drivers will auto load. Reclaim the device using the HID software. Then do full calibration of all axis again and then calibration of each individual axis. Set min, max and mil settings for throttle. After that all axis should work fine including the cursor. I am truly impressed by the improvement I see with Bart"s software and the Tusba with the Cougar throttle. Cursor works better than ever did in old Thrustmaster software. I used to have to move the throttle to afterburner and back to idle for the throttle to be fully active after spawning into BMS. Now, it is ready on the spot. The Tusba R2 has given my Cougar throttle new life. I mothballed my Thrustmaster cougar joystick and use my Warthog stick.
Hi TheSilkMan, I followed your advice and it helped me too. Cheers! However, the problem is that I have to go into the device preferences and remove the Tusba device every time I restart the computer for my Throttle to work correctly. Any way to avoid this procedure after each restart?
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I have had the same problem as Vikingo, since I installed my TUSBA.
It sounds like it might be a Windows 10 issue. I base this on a section of the TUSBA User Guide v1.07.1 PDF document:
"My device has suddenly stopped working after connecting it or
turning on the computer:As the title says, if sometime your device does not work after connect it to the
computer or after a power on and you are running Windows 10, then please, read this
paragraph.Windows 10 has a bug with the HID composite devices, sometimes it changes the HID
devices order and when programs access to the device information selected, it is not
correct."What’s confusing to me is that I’ve been seeing the same behavior that Vikingo has seen, namely that we have to perform this remove-reinstall workaround on most (or all) of the occasions when we turn on or restart our computers.
Admittedly, I don’t turn my computer off very often, using “sleep” mode instead, but sometimes I have to turn it off, such as if I’m going to clean dust out of the inside of the computer.
If this really is a Win10 issue, I guess we might be stuck waiting for this issue to get resolved in a Windows update. I’m surprised it hasn’t been resolved already.
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I went poking around the RealSimulators site today and only now discovered that they’ve posted a new version of RS Tools. Might want to check that you have the latest installed - couldn’t hurt.
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I have had the same problem as Vikingo, since I installed my TUSBA.
It sounds like it might be a Windows 10 issue. I base this on a section of the TUSBA User Guide v1.07.1 PDF document:
"My device has suddenly stopped working after connecting it or
turning on the computer:As the title says, if sometime your device does not work after connect it to the
computer or after a power on and you are running Windows 10, then please, read this
paragraph.Windows 10 has a bug with the HID composite devices, sometimes it changes the HID
devices order and when programs access to the device information selected, it is not
correct."What’s confusing to me is that I’ve been seeing the same behavior that Vikingo has seen, namely that we have to perform this remove-reinstall workaround on most (or all) of the occasions when we turn on or restart our computers.
Admittedly, I don’t turn my computer off very often, using “sleep” mode instead, but sometimes I have to turn it off, such as if I’m going to clean dust out of the inside of the computer.
If this really is a Win10 issue, I guess we might be stuck waiting for this issue to get resolved in a Windows update. I’m surprised it hasn’t been resolved already.
That’s most likely the issue we have! Thanks for pointing this out. At least we know how to problem solve it. Cheers!
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I went poking around the RealSimulators site today and only now discovered that they’ve posted a new version of RS Tools. Might want to check that you have the latest installed - couldn’t hurt.
Thanks Steve! I have the latest version installed. It is definitely Win 10 who is causing the problem as pointed out by Mylonite470