Here is a nice 3d printed HAL sensor
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Yeah sure no prob.
Still developing it so it could take some weeks.Btw here is the working prototype .
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Yeah sure no prob.
Still developing it so it could take some weeks.Btw here is the working prototype .
:hungry::hungry::hungry::hungry: MUST-HAVE
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On a side note, careful when soldering HAL sensors on the stick, i managed to burn one:P I think the plugs are reversed in relation to the throttle. I desperately need two complete sensors for the stick as well cause my setup now is completely ghetto and unplayable. I am just not good with my hands
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@Master:
On a side note, careful when soldering HAL sensors on the stick, i managed to burn one:P I think the plugs are reversed in relation to the throttle. I desperately need two complete sensors for the stick as well cause my setup now is completely ghetto and unplayable. I am just not good with my hands
You will have other good qualities wich i suck at.
I am trying to develop just as simple as it can be, in terms of swapping it out. With no marging for error.
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You will have other good qualities wich i suck at.
I am trying to develop just as simple as it can be, in terms of swapping it out. With no marging for error.
Good to know. Cant wait!
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the first one worked!
I have just the printed parts……no hall or magnets
I can send you pics
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the first one worked!
I have just the printed parts……no hall or magnets
I can send you pics
please do!
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pm me your email
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count me in for 2. Pm me when they are ready…Wow.
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i will leave the pm ing to you
i will post when i have the stick blocks printed
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Miles used a capacitor on each sensor. Any ideas why?
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Noise filter i guess.
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So I thought I saw a thread somewhere that talked about a resistor to change voltage on the PCB in the Throttle to integrate a Hall Sensor in place of the pot. But I haven’t seen test results or a follow up to confirm it actually works Is it that easy? I’m not the type that can write my own firmware nor create circuit designs but I’m not afraid of my soldering iron. I guess my questions are:
Do you have to modify the PCB in the throttle to accept the Hal sensor?
If so what do you do to it?
If you are successful with your new Hall Sensor in your Throttle, are you willing to sell a couple? -
@16th:
I guess my questions are:
Do you have to modify the PCB in the throttle to accept the Hal sensor?
If so what do you do to it?
If you are successful with your new Hall Sensor in your Throttle, are you willing to sell a couple?There are 2 versions of TM throttle pcb’s one working on 5V DC and a (older version i guess) operating at 3.5 V DC.
This image shows the 3.5 V DC version(picture taken from the web,not my picture)
The 5 V DC version is lacking R1 resistor.
I have ordered a hall sensor with a operating supply voltage ranging from 2.7 V up to 6.5 V, so there is no need shorting R1 to get a 5 V supply on the older PCB.
Bear in mind this has to be tested, i have ordered the part and has to be tested.
I have both versions PCB’s so i can test it on both PCB’s.If this works i will do a production run and even convert it to stick Hall sensors.
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Wow
That is some smart idea.
Have to look into this.Ha my friend. How long ago did I ask you about doing this?
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i will leave the pm ing to you
i will post when i have the stick blocks printed
the other thread has the pics of the printed pieces
Redneck, I could print to help you out, I do not want to get into constructing the hall and mganets
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Hi mate.
I know you asked long time ago, real life doesnt come easy sometimes.
The last few months i have been building ICP’s flat out.
Just trying to build this in my spare time. -
Any reason as to why I managed to burn a Hal sensor a couple years ago when soldering to the stick? For the throttle it worked fine. Perhaps reversed cables? I don’t have a polymeter and as I said, I am not good with my hands:p
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on the firmware side of things check out mmjoy2 much easire to work with with the programing of functions
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When available, I am in!