Super Cougar
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Hey everyone, I have managed to get my TQS running how I would like. For now the stick drift is nipped in the rear via calibration with Di View and using a heavy dead zone in BMS. I have taken the liberty and added some switches, buttons and pots to it as well (spoiled by the X56 and the Warthog throttles). I do have to rewire the switches as the wire doesn’t want to work with the PCB. My TQS is as follows:
TM Cougar TQS
BU0836X 12-Bit Joystick Board
Mini switches
100k Alpha Pots
MTW Sim hall sensor
Delta Sim Microstick -
That sounds sweet, JUmpsstart5179!
I always love hearing about a Cougar that’s purrin’
If you have time to put together a how-to of some sort, that would be awesome, but if not, that’s totally understandable. A detailed how-to guide can be harder than the build itself.
I’m dreaming of the day when someone makes and sells a proper side rail / detent system, either as a retrofit kit for Cougars, or as part of a newer, better Cougar.
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That sounds sweet, JUmpsstart5179!
I’m dreaming of the day when someone makes and sells a proper side rail / detent system, either as a retrofit kit for Cougars, or as part of a newer, better Cougar.
WinWing (Chinese HOTAS manufacturer that actually seems to be make some pretty decent gear) is working on exactly that:
https://www.facebook.com/winwing.cn/videos/808258543340346
Their F-18 HOTAS seems very interesting as well - https://www.winwing.cn/en/
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That sounds sweet, JUmpsstart5179!
I always love hearing about a Cougar that’s purrin’
If you have time to put together a how-to of some sort, that would be awesome, but if not, that’s totally understandable. A detailed how-to guide can be harder than the build itself.
I’m dreaming of the day when someone makes and sells a proper side rail / detent system, either as a retrofit kit for Cougars, or as part of a newer, better Cougar.
Thrustmaster Cougar TQS Revitalization
After looking far and wide I managed to find a used Thrustmaster Cougar HOTAS for sale at a decent price. I paid maybe $200 tops for it and the purchase also had a set of rudder pedals. Knowing that there were issues with the setup I was prepared for some work ahead of me in using this HOTAS to its full potential. I unboxed hooked it up and spent a few days trying to get it up and running. Long story short it worked but not to my liking. At the start, there was spiking in the antenna elevation pot which meant hunting down a replacement and putting that in. Then the z-axis wasn’t up to par, so the search was on for a new pot. During the search for a new pot, I came across the mention of using Hall Sensors for it (magnets that send the signal). I also discovered that the micro stick drifted severely. Again on the hunt for another part. After replacing parts and trying to figure it out I decided it was time to rewire it or get a TUSBA from Real Simulator. Ultimately I chose to rewire it. To rewire the board I went with a Leo Bodnar BU0836X 12-Bit Joystick Board. This was simple to use once I figured it out. Even with the rewiring I was still running into issues with signals and put it up for a bit. I let it sit until I was ready to try again and after doing some more searching on various forums I managed to get it worked out. I reset everything to default in windows and calibrated it there. Then I modified the settings using DI View. Since I mainly fly Falcon BMS I assigned a heavy dead zone for the X and Y-Axis in the settings area. Now I can use it without issue. I guess you can say I was spoiled by using the Logitech X56 and the Cougar stick and Warthog throttle as they have knobs, buttons, and switches galore on them, and decided to add my own to the TQS. I can do this because of the support that the BU0836X board gives me with up to 32 buttons, and up to 7 axes that can be used. I added 10 switches both toggle and the push-button type and 2 pots. Below are the steps to reqiring the TQS. These are the steps I used to rewire it for the new board.
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Make sure TQS is not plugged in.
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Remove the 8 screws that are on the bottom there are 4 long screws and 4 short screws
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Remove throttle pot and arm
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Unplug throttle pot
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Remove unplug the ribbon cable
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Unscrew and remove ground wire
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Cut the ribbon cable plug
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Set handle off to the side.
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Remove friction arm, wheel, and pad.
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Carefully split the wires from the cut ribbon end
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Strip the ends of the wires (Now you can either wire the board and then put it in the case or put it in the case and then wire it.)
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Follow TM wiring diagram
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Wire board by pushing the tab down, insert the wire and release tab. A gentle tug will tell if the wire is properly seated
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Install the board into the base. I used strong double-sided tape for mine.
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Replace friction wheel, arm, and pad
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Install Hall Sensor (if you chose to do this)
a. Insert magnet into throttle arm
b. Insert sensor into the slot in the base where you removed the throttle pot -
If you are going to add to the TQS as I did, this is the time since it is a part to drill the holes for the pots and switches. (Recommend using 20-24 gauge wire per Leo Bodnar’s site)
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Wire pots and switches to board using step 13
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Replace throttle arm.
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Replace cover
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Replace screws 4 long and 4 short
Hook back up, calibrate and setup (may need a system reboot)
I got it running using the windows calibration tool and then setting the settings using DI View.
Now with the Leo Bodnar board, you will need to use a USB angle adapter linked below or drill or Dremel a new hole on the side of the TQS. I used a USB cable that I located on Amazon and it is linked below.
PARTS
Hall Sensors
https://vipergear.eu/
https://forums.eagle.ru/topic/188571-tm-cougar-ch-magnetoresistive-hall-sensor-kitsMicro Stick
https://deltasimelectronics.com/products/cougar-throttle-radar-tdc-slew-upgradeKnobs
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WNLX4H8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_detailsSwitches
https://www.amazon.com/mxuteuk-Terminal-Position-Miniature-Dashboard/dp/B07QGDDTWJ/ref=rvi_7/132-9305443-7080347?pd_rd_w=qUiGv&pf_rd_p=c0296674-5a83-4ad6-b035-0702d2b359df&pf_rd_r=6WB1JT5E1MEAT5JWYRFY&pd_rd_r=82817315-b32b-4835-a887-27fad25846c1&pd_rd_wg=dYXIX&pd_rd_i=B07VZ4TDCT&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/DIYhz-Normal-Momentary-Switch-Button/dp/B07BD2D96W/ref=rvi_2/132-9305443-7080347?pd_rd_w=1wgU8&pf_rd_p=c0296674-5a83-4ad6-b035-0702d2b359df&pf_rd_r=KYBGT2CHY4GCEAR9M4WN&pd_rd_r=f62a6529-6b58-40da-90ff-86b76af78c0d&pd_rd_wg=W2fL0&pd_rd_i=B07BD2D96W&psc=1USB Plug
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LPS1I2Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I have this in a Word Doc with pics as well.
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Great Job Jump. You have given me some fresh ideas about my TQS.
Also noted your layout would be perfect for VR, since the additional controls are within reach and easily distinguishable by just touch.
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Thrustmaster Cougar TQS Revitalization…
PARTS
Hall Sensors
https://vipergear.eu/
https://forums.eagle.ru/topic/188571-tm-cougar-ch-magnetoresistive-hall-sensor-kitsI’m intrigued! Is Rel4y still producing parts for the Cougar?? It’s awesome if he still is…but I though he stopped a year ago!
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It’s developing, or it’s ready FCC!!!
New generation of FCC! -
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I’m intrigued! Is Rel4y still producing parts for the Cougar?? It’s awesome if he still is…but I though he stopped a year ago!
He’s still around and helping. His brother has taken the lead on things now.
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FCC?
Yes, it looks like he was even going to set up a website!
He has already commented on the FCC forum! -