TQS Cursor double pot drifting: known fixes for this?
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In the Hotas cougar control panel I have centre set to 30 for both X and Y microstick axis. In bms setup controllers advanced deadzone is set Large but I reckon the benefits I get are purely from the CCP settings.
Just noticed that for some reason I have CCP Microstick Y upper and lower set to 2 but that’s probably just a historic error on my part. -
I mentioned the BMS workaround in my first post, but it doesn’t solve all drift situations. Im guessing just the smallest ones, along with use of deadzones. You might be able to slow down or hide small drift, but after a point software workarounds wont be able to mask the drift.
If theres something wrong with the pot itself, surely a new one will resolve the problem (I ordered a replacement from TM CS), but I was wondering if someone figured out how to restore or fix the pot as there are for the Range/Antenna pots by disassembling them. I have been successful fixing the Range pot which suffers from losing its detent and becoming loose to the point where the wiper misses the resistance plate. Ive not found any thing for the cursor pot, which is really what I was looking for. I may try potentiometer cleaner (like DeOxIt) next, maybe it gunks up after a while.
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I mentioned the BMS workaround in my first post, but it doesn’t solve all drift situations. Im guessing just the smallest ones, along with use of deadzones. You might be able to slow down or hide small drift, but after a point software workarounds wont be able to mask the drift.
If theres something wrong with the pot itself, surely a new one will resolve the problem (I ordered a replacement from TM CS), but I was wondering if someone figured out how to restore or fix the pot as there are for the Range/Antenna pots by disassembling them. I have been successful fixing the Range pot which suffers from losing its detent and becoming loose to the point where the wiper misses the resistance plate. Ive not found any thing for the cursor pot, which is really what I was looking for. I may try potentiometer cleaner (like DeOxIt) next, maybe it gunks up after a while.
Hi AV8R
Oliver ( Red Dog ) as far as I know he replaced the pots ( see his post #3) - so did I ( with brand new pots), still haveing a bit of a drift what I can go with - so I am able to fly MAV missions.
Hope that potentiometer cleaner works for you to get a good result.
Have a good weekend.
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indeed, I replaced multiples ones, on mine and for other ppl
The issue went away after a pot change but came back with time.
There is not a single time a drifting pot was fully solved by replacing the microstick. -
One other thing that has helped me in the past, remove the microstick “shield” - when calibrating, this allows a greater deflection and as such any nullzone programmed into the centre is slightly increased.
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I just ordered a couple of double pot cursors from TM, but if what Im seeing are the real TQS and its parts, I guess the next questions are:
- part numbers, vendor site, costs
- do they fit in a Cougar TQS, both physically and electrically compatible?
Digikey has compatible replacement microstick pots.
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Digikey has compatible replacement microstick pots.
Is wish they could deliver me one
As far as i know they are not produced anymoreMy 2 eurocents…
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One other thing that has helped me in the past, remove the microstick “shield” - when calibrating, this allows a greater deflection and as such any nullzone programmed into the centre is slightly increased.
Hi Malc,
so yours is working a 100% ???
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Hi Malc,
so yours is working a 100% ???
I don’t suffer any drifting, if that’s what you mean.
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Is wish they could deliver me one As far as i know they are not produced anymore : (My 2 eurocents…
Strange, as they are still listed in Digikey online catalog.
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the drifting you are experiencing comes from the cheap potis of the microstick.
replacing the whole ministick have done the trick to me.btw, i own a tusba and really like it.
the deadzones can be adjusted independently and you can work around drifting to some extend. -
I ordered a few spares from TM, so when they arrive it should solve the problem (for a while anyways). And I second Uga’s comments on the TUSBA, plus the higher resolution gives more fine control and the idle, mil, aft, min and max zones of the throttle throw are all programmable. Not to mention you can calibrate all pots and set DX assignments to the TQS not done otherwise (like SLAP and JFS, etc).
RedDog,
You never did deny or confirm you repurposed real TQS military POT parts to put into your TQS, but your picture implies as much. Wow, if so, that’s quite the gutsy move (pun intended). Wonder if the real TQS could be used and interfaced. -
the drifting you are experiencing comes from the cheap potis of the microstick.
read the post again, our experiences imply it’s not only that
You never did deny or confirm you repurposed real TQS military POT parts to put into your TQS, but your picture implies as much. Wow, if so, that’s quite the gutsy move (pun intended). Wonder if the real TQS could be used and interfaced.
Yes it can be done, quite a few Vp guys made it. I sticked to my TQS for far too long, I’m doing the move thanks to a friend who sourced a real TQS + internal guts. The real goal with all that is the pressure driven radar cursors.
There is a need for an interface between the real internal guts and the Cougar. that interface replaces the TQS PCB. and guess who made it? -
@Red:
Yes it can be done, quite a few Vp guys made it. I sticked to my TQS for far too long, I’m doing the move thanks to a friend who sourced a real TQS + internal guts. The real goal with all that is the pressure driven radar cursors.
There is a need for an interface between the real internal guts and the Cougar. that interface replaces the TQS PCB. and guess who made it?Guess as in its already done? OK ill bite….Mr. FCC (Arend) or Bodinar? Is this generally available?
I have two real sets of FSS TQS in my av collection, but Im too collector minded to use them for simming.
This is what the TUSBA-R2 calibration tool looks like:
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I´ve the exact same problem - drifting microstick also with tusba r2…. I did try to clean the pot - buts the drifting perists…
Btw. where did you order the spare microstick?
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Thrustmaster customer support. They just arrived.
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Hi!
Could you share with me how you fixed this issue? What is the perfect solution for this?
I have the same issue at the moment. -
RedDog,
You never did deny or confirm you repurposed real TQS military POT parts to put into your TQS, but your picture implies as much. Wow, if so, that’s quite the gutsy move (pun intended). Wonder if the real TQS could be used and interfaced.I can today answer that question AV8R
It’s been a long term project I was finally able to bring to conclusion with a LOT of help from friends.
First I didn’t do anything special. I just have the chance to have great friends all over the planet and bringing all these friend’s help make this throttle project possible.Leech from Australia sourced a real throttle and real switches for me
Ghost and Rayman in Holland already had the throttle working in their pit after making the programming and they agreed to share the solution with me
And finally my buddy Arend from holland helped me streamline the solution in my own pit.
So all credit go to them
In the end all I did was holding the soldering ironIt all started with this little guy:
available for a couple euros on ebay.
The great thing is that the arduino pro micro board fit inside the throttle so all connections can be done in there. The only cables beside the miniUSB that needs to go out through the throttle arm are the 3 wires for the throttle hall sensor down in the left console.Interfacing the throttle real bits to the arduino board is easy thanks to the common colour code of the real wires. And there’s nothing fancy in there.
The real gem is the arduino programming which of course I couldn’t do on my own.and it works !!
After the above tryouts, the arduino pro micro board was hot glued in the throttle casing, the wires were shortened arranged and soldered straight to the arduino board
So it is possible if you are the lucky owner of a real throttle
What you need is the Arduino Pro micro board, the diagram and firmware linked belowHere’s the wiring diagrams with the real throttle colour codes
The firmware can be downloaded from Arend’d website (software download section)
http://www.vipercore.nl/index.php/download/software -
Hello RedDog,
Please you could specify the model of the Arduino Pro micro board, that you used in your ThrottleThank you !!!
malpaso -
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