Microstick X & Y deflections unequal
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Hi Scubapics, could you give me any contact details? I’ve got the part number from the Cougar World site
Alan
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Right then. My TUSBA arrived today! It’s installed. You need to install the version of Microsoft .net framework that it requests.
The good news is that there is no bad news. I have full x and y axis on my microstick. The calibration facility takes it all into account. It’s working well in the sim. The only thing is you need to choose the microstick x as y and vice versa in the sim. I won’t be changing my microstick. Instead I shall keep it as a spare.
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Make sure you remember which usb port you’ve plugged your TUSBA into, changing ports can have a detrimental effect on the microstick though, it can be resolved with DIview if the realsimulator software can’t fix it……
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Scubapics that’s excellent news, sounds like TUSBA is the way to go then.
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Right then. My TUSBA arrived today! It’s installed. You need to install the version of Microsoft .net framework that it requests.
The good news is that there is no bad news. I have full x and y axis on my microstick. The calibration facility takes it all into account. It’s working well in the sim. The only thing is you need to choose the microstick x as y and vice versa in the sim. I won’t be changing my microstick. Instead I shall keep it as a spare.
I dont understand, what is Tusba doing that makes the microstick deflection better than using the CCP panel software? I was thinking about getting Tusba (I think I read there’s a version 2). Where did you get yours from?
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CCP calibration is somewhat screwed. It was written way before the days of Windows 7. I’m now on Windows 10. Maybe it’s related to that. Certainly the auto calibration doesn’t work at all for me. Manual calibration does not seem to take into account the small swing that I am getting on my microstick. The TUSBA calibration software simply works. The calibration software is also many times better than that of the TM one. You can get one from here… http://realsimulator.com/html/tusba.html
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Hi Scubapics, I just emailed TM an enquiry about a replacement microstick pot. Thanks for the link.
Alan
Edit: just heard from TM - no more microstick pots available!
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Hi Scubapics, I just emailed TM an enquiry about a replacement microstick pot. Thanks for the link.
Alan
Edit: just heard from TM - no more microstick pots available!
Really? I must have had the last one. No worries though. If you ordered the TUSBA I think you will find that will sort out your problems. It did for me. The TM software just didn’t calibrate for me. Maybe a Windows 10 compatibility problem.
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Tusba does not solve the drifting issues
drifting appeared well before Win10, so it is not a compatibility issue -
Indeed it won’t. I didn’t suffer drifting issues, just poor range of deflection. The circuitry inside the TQS is quite basic. It will wither be a supply problem, although that would affect more than one potentiometer, or a capacitive issue perhaps. I’d need to have another look at the circuit to see if it could be anything else. I think Bigfish had the same problem as me looking at his firs post.
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and I can only assume I’ve got some sort of cross-talk effect going on, as the microstick x output is simultaneously equalled by y, but in the opposite direction. FUBAR whatever, speaking technically, I think
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@Red:
Tusba does not solve the drifting issues
drifting appeared well before Win10, so it is not a compatibility issueNot on its own it won’t but with DIView it did solve it for me whereas the TUSBA software couldn’t.
The TUSBA software only allows to calibrate each axis which is great however my microstick was reporting ~68% on the x and y as centre when both should be 50% hence the drifting.
With DIView I can manipulate the raw signal of each axis - this raw signal is what windows sees but windows reports it as start, middle and end due to it working in a different resolution.
In DIView I am able to re-position the centre of the microstick to 50%. I can’t speak to how long the microstick pot will last but time will tell.
I don’t see how this wouldn’t work for stock Cougars?
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and I can only assume I’ve got some sort of cross-talk effect going on, as the microstick x output is simultaneously equalled by y, but in the opposite direction. FUBAR whatever, speaking technically, I think
You can turn off each axis to measure the raw signal independently in DIView. Edit>Settings
In DIView what are the low and high numbers in red when you move the x axis through its full range?
In DIView what are the low and high numbers in red when you move the y axis through its full range?Also, could you post a screenshot like this showing both the x and y axis raw values along with the calibration values for one of them too?
The black triangle is what windows reports
The red triangle is the raw signalI’m curious to see how your red triangles report given the problem you’ve got
As I understand it, All software, whether it be Foxy, Target, TUSBA or whatever, their calibration routines are calibrating the signal that Windows is providing them. As you can see in the above screenshot, the raw data that is provided to Windows is in a much smaller resolution with the range of motion not getting to the extremes of 0 - 4095 mine starts at ~1700 - 3900
If you are unable to edit your values in DIView then I’d agree your pot is shot.
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and I can only assume I’ve got some sort of cross-talk effect going on, as the microstick x output is simultaneously equalled by y, but in the opposite direction. FUBAR whatever, speaking technically, I think
Sounds like you have a short on the PCB or in the wiring.
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Hiya ddoc, many thanks for that and I’ll get a screenshot organised. I’m pretty sure that the red values for microstick x and y were only 0 - 255 ie nothing like yours.
Alan
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Hi Scubapics, yes, I think maybe I’ll take the bottom off first and check out the pcb just to see if a blob of anything has shorted something. Then if not, access the double pot and see if anything is going on there - at least I can give it a clean.
Alan
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Hi Scubapics, yes, I think maybe I’ll take the bottom off first and check out the pcb just to see if a blob of anything has shorted something. Then if not, access the double pot and see if anything is going on there - at least I can give it a clean.
Alan
Also check the cables in the arm of the throttle.
There is some minor “cross-talk” in the system. It might be the design. As you move any of the potentiometers all the axis tend to deflect slightly at the same time. This is not normally noticeable in the simulation as it is a small fraction of each axis maximum deflection.
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Hi Scubapics, out of frustration I decided to order the Tusba 2. It is in transit now. Any pointers for how to set it up? Do I uninstall Foxy and program directly via BMS and my other sims?
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There’s a dance you need to do with the TUSBA R2 - I’d forgot about it until I got around to setting mine up on a new computer/BMS 4.34 install.
First, plug in and use the Windows Controller Control panel to directly calibrate your TQS as a USB device. You may find you need to do this a couple times - none of my axes registered full or equal throw the first time I cal’d. Then use the RealSim setup to cal there - at which point you may also note full range doesn’t register; but the RealSim software will grey out and ignore what it’s not using.
After this it gets subtle, in that you can re-set the min/max in RealSim setup, and also set Cursor dead zone in both RealSim and BMS (where you’ll also find you’ll need to noodle out the axes assignments depending on which firmware you’re using - some of the labeling doesn’t exactly mate up)…I had to iterate on this among all places I could do a setup, but after about a half hour or so I ended up with a working, non-drifting, controllable Cursor.
Good thing is that after you’re done with all of this the TUSBA R2 remembers what you did, even if you unplug it (which was more than BMS was doing for me at the time - but I think I fixed that too, yet to test). So as long as you plug it back into the same computer…
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Hi Scubapics, out of frustration I decided to order the Tusba 2. It is in transit now. Any pointers for how to set it up? Do I uninstall Foxy and program directly via BMS and my other sims?
Ah sorry. I forgot all about this. Had a shit week as my dog died totally unexpectedly.
It’s all documented in the pdf manual. Read it through a few times first though. Pretty straight forward in the end.
I have noticed that my x/y microstick still goes out of cal. It’s really strange. Can only think that the voltage supply is drifting but then you would see the other pots drift too.