Thanks for posting those screenshots, jc1.

When I was trying to noodle this out, back in January, I was distracting myself with another problem: I didn’t correctly understand what “cursor X” and “cursor Y” meant. My understanding of those two axes was wrong. I think that when I came up with the “mind hack” of trying to move the real-world image with the cursors, I was just so happy to have gotten cursor X and cursor Y straightened out. But I hadn’t realized that the cursor movements are reversed, when one compares MARK-HUD with FLIR.

One other thought occurs to me, though… and someone should definitely check me on this, because I tend to get these things backward…

I wonder if, when boresighting the FLIR, a cursor-down movement of the cursor switch is meant to slew the FLIR camera’s aim point downward, relative to the fuselage of the aircraft? That might explain the upward movement of the FLIR image in the HUD, relative to the frame of the HUD.

In which case, the engineers who designed all this stuff in the aircraft might say “The cursor switch slews the FLIR camera the same way it slews the TGP camera. We wanted to keep those two mechanizations (sp?) consistent”. And this would mean we’re stuck doing my “mind hack” with the real-world image.

Of course, I could have all of that bass-ackwards, as I often do. But it makes me wonder if this is all about the direction in which a camera’s aim point is being slewed…

Same here, using my (not quite “el-cheapo” :)) T500RS pedals as a “poor man’s rudder” in BMS using the “virtual rudder” option in Setup->Hardware. Works very nicely!

All the best,

Uwe

@Gastone:

Call EACON for functions

Thank you, works now 🙂

@Kilo60:

Isn’t the config option only able to work if you HOLD and don’t release the mode?

Couldn’t find anything on: Search the technical manual or forums for “0x42”

https://github.com/chihirobelmo/FalconBMS-Alternative-Launcher#-tips

I’ll try this but not sure how this is supposed to work?

As it described you have let’s an 3 way switch that is ON(DX1)-Off-ON(DX2) with the middle postition not sending an DX command
So you could assing to your 2 DX switch states 3 callbacks

CallbackA 1 -2 -2 0 0x0 0 (Send when the switch goes from the Off to DX1 On state)

CallbackB 1 -2 -2 0x42 0x0 (Send when the switch is put from DX1 back to off state)
CallbackB 2 -2 -2 0x42 0x0 (Send when the switch is put from DX2 back to off state)

CallbackC 2 -2 -2 0 0x0 0 (Send when the switch goes from the Off to DX2 On state)

@Kilo60:

Is there any way to save the AB/IDLE Throttle Slider Detents in game without having to reset them every time I start the game?

Thanks!

Hi, Kilo, and welcome.
Oak is right. AL overrides the regular UI. So, if you don’t have the throttle(s) set up in AL, and go in via AL, you won’t have throttle settings. However, there is another side to that coin. I’m a big fan of AL, but find that when I set the throttles up there my “axis’ creep” Afterburner(s) will suddenly start lighting at 2/3 throttle, stuff like that . It’s just a quirk of my system. So, what I do is enter via AL only if I have made a key command or HOTAS change. If you go in via the regular UI, with no throttles setup in AL, then it will save the throttle settings made in game for next time.

@Flow32:

The warthog throttle has 32 buttons + 1 POV…. as said earlier.
Also, BMS does not look at the controller number given by windows, but looks at the devicesorting.txt file…
Have fun setting everything up, and look at the manual, it contains a lot of good information

it’s worth noting also that in the BMS UI, it sees the keyboard as device#1, Joy as #2 and so on thus the order for most would be:

1.KB
2.Joy
3.TQS
4.& 5 MFD L/R (if applicable)
6. Rudders (if applicable)

@dawgboy:

Howdy, coolts.

What did you put into your key file to get the POV2ID to map?

TIA,
db

for me I split my programming with the Realsimulator HID Tool software and in the Keyfile editor where if using the editor (found under Falcon BMS 4.34/Docs/01 Input Devices), you’d be programming the WH TQS POV under the “Primary” device (Joystick POV2) , I don’t user the stick POV for TRIM, rather I’ve moved the TRIM to my WH Throttle POV, thus opening up my stick POV (DX buttons 27-30, BMS 28-31) for views etc., ergonomically it works better for me. My mapping was as follows (note set g_nPOV2DeviceID 4) and I should note that I own Realsimulator F16SGRH-CE stick and R3L so my BMS device order is shown below first for device number reference:

1. KB
2. FSSB Stick
3. FSSB R3L
4. TM WH Throttle
5. MFD L
6. MFD R
7. Flight Control Rudder

my falcon bms.cfg entries (bottom):

set g_nNumOfPOVs 2 // SETUP OVERRIDE
set g_nPOV1DeviceID 2 // SETUP OVERRIDE
set g_nPOV1ID 0 // SETUP OVERRIDE
set g_nPOV2DeviceID 4 // SETUP OVERRIDE
set g_nPOV2ID 0 // SETUP OVERRIDE

note the #4 above matching the BMS UI device numbering, most users will have a #3, in my case (RS users) the stick & R3L force sensor count as 2 Joysticks (32 DX buttons each)

Throttle POV mapping (unshifted layer):

AFElevatorTrimUp 1 -1 -3 0 0x0 125
SimDoNothing 1 -1 -3 1 0x0 -1
AFAileronTrimRight 1 -1 -3 2 0x0 125
SimDoNothing 1 -1 -3 3 0x0 -1
AFElevatorTrimDown 1 -1 -3 4 0x0 125
SimDoNothing 1 -1 -3 5 0x0 -1
AFAileronTrimLeft 1 -1 -3 6 0x0 125
SimDoNothing 1 -1 -3 7 0x0 -1

(Shifted layer, just insert whatever Callback you’d like):

Your callback here 3 -1 -3 0 0x0 -1
SimDoNothing 3 -1 -3 1 0x0 -1
Your callback here 3 -1 -3 2 0x0 -1
SimDoNothing 3 -1 -3 3 0x0 -1
Your callback here 3 -1 -3 4 0x0 -1
SimDoNothing 3 -1 -3 5 0x0 -1
Your callback here 3 -1 -3 6 0x0 -1
SimDoNothing 3 -1 -3 7 0x0 -1

ok just done this mod, works very well…

John

Flow32,
Thanks for the help. I do not know exactly why, but it works now. So here is basically how I think I screwed up. When I was flying with a couple of guys, I think V3 of Rybo’s was not working properly with the latest version of Falcon BMS. So I did upgrade to V4, and I think when I went to the controller menu, and I tested things, I screwed something up.

What I just did now was to go to the setup controller menu, and I found the VHF clicked on it, and then I pushed the correct button on the warthog throttle, and it now works. I still think that when I originally test V4 of Rybo’s profile, the vhf button just was not working, and then I went to the control menu and screwed things up more, but oh well, it works now!

Yay!

There’s nothing “magnetic” about the base, which I was sort of hoping for myself - but it’s the same as the stock base. I think what they mean is that it’s for their “magnetic” gimbal unit.

The Warthog stick is probably one of the stiffest joysticks you can buy, which I happen to really like. It’s “gimbal” is actually a Hall effect ball-joint that has the sensor in the center of the cup - it measures distance of that sensor off-center to provide x and y axis measurements. There aren’t any detents in it, but because it is so stiff the breakout force for very fine inputs around zero can be tricky (you can over-input to break it off of zero), until you get used to it…and how you calibrate it and/or set dead zone can also affect that.

Personally, it’s my current favorite joystick. I like the heavy forces because they are more like a real airplane, and there are replacement springs out there to make it even stiffer for use with an extension as a center stick mounted on the floor. I may try one of those sometime in a center stick setup.

For some reason centring the dogfight switch, (boat switch on Warthog), does not cancel “c” the override modes (“d” and “m”). I have to hit “c” manually. I’m sure it was fine a while back so somethings gone screwy. How do i set these controls to be “momentary” so that they trigger “c” when the switch centres?

Edit

@Leech:

Try this.
Run the configuration app from the Falcon BMS launcher.
Expand on the Hardware tab, and check the Dogfight/Missile Override self cancel is enabled.

Yep, that was it. Fixed 🙂

@Razor121:

The alternative launcher can handle the release events too. So you would basically set the release of the ‘up’ position to ‘Gear: LG Handle - DN’.
And the result is exactly what MadDoc described. But this way you don’t have to manually mess with your keyfile.

tried this,not able to get it to work?

John.

…using the new launcher? has anyone done one? i ask because im finding it difficult to work out how to set up a 3 postion switch with the launcher;

e.g. FLAPS 3 postions to set up as: LG up/LG down/ALT gear extend for instance?

The eng oper switches can you set set them 3 way? or are they just momentary up and select back?

thanks for any feedback/help…

:frusty: i have so much to learn, dare not even think about starting a campaign (as none have got far or gone well lol)

John.

TOD YBMTI. IALLC. SAI. YGT.

(Thanks oakdesign. You beat me to it. It’s a long learning curve. Stick at it. You’ll get there) :uham:

DIY
PS2 Eye cam V1 5-10€ 3 IR lenses 1.5€ a resitor and a USB cable some plastic or wood or cardboard
2 hours of time

No issue with the Warthog throttle here either.
I put the friction to the minimum, which makes small corrections very easy 🙂

@Pegasus82:

First, enable NWS with Shift / (as mentioned above), then comma and period are the default keyboard rudder commands.

warthog and rudder pedals on there way now 😉

Thanks, Alienslayer.I have indeed been experimenting with pitch sensitivity, and the TMS down setting is what I moving toward. TMS left is too slow.

Hey Max,

Love the profile thank you! I just got back into BMS and glad someone kept Muds profile alive.
With that said, I have the thrusmaster TPR pedals and I cannot get them recognized under the profile or in the game for the life of me.

Can you asists?

Nick

Good Day, All,
I just got a FSSB R3 Lighning Force Sensor kit for my Warthog, and thought a review might be helpful…
Real Simulation’s customer service was great, and it got here fast. You get the FS base, a mini-usb cable(more about that later), all in a nice plastic box.
The physical installation (mounting the original circuit board to the FSSB), and the FSSB to the Warthog base, was easy. There are video’s on their website, but go to Youtube so you can get fullscreen.
The calibration part was straight forward, using Windows calibration. I had used the BMS Alternate Launcher pre-FSSB, and those settings were still there. I didn’t have to reprogram.
I did have one small issue at first, sometimes entered commands lagged or sometimes didn’t occur at all, but the solution was simple. As mentioned above , the kit comes with a mini-usb cable that plugs into the side of the FSSB, separate from the stock cable. It’s purpose is to enable you to designate it as a separate HID . So, in AL, for example, you have a listing for the stick and a separate one for FSSB. Not knowing any better, I had the stock cable and the mini usb plugged in , and I think that confused the software. When I unplugged the mini-usb, all the problems were solved. I didn’t experiment with plugging in the mini usb and unplugging the stock cable. The mini usb lets you use what is called the RS_HID_DEV-TOOL (see below). You don’t need this to get the stick running
Now the fun part-How does it fly. In a word , great. Force sensing may be difficult to adjust to, but for me (with a lot of years on the Saitek x-65) it felt like “home”
The FSSB comes with a lot of special functions. http://www.realsimulator.com/download/FSSB-R3_User_Guide_V2.02.pdf0 will give you the manual. Basically by holding pinky and paddle at the same time you enter what they call the Special Mode Menu. With it you use , for examples, TMS, as a roll and pitch sensibility control. Another SSM is to be able to designate the Stick’s POV as POV or trim. There’s a whole list of SSM’s.
And, just in case all that’s not enough to get you in trouble, there’s RS-HID-DEV_TOOL. It’s a program you can download from the site . http://realsimulator.com/html/downloads.html. It let’s you program the SSM’s and a whole lot more, including a section on BMS Firmware.I’ve only given it the briefest of glances so far
There is one precautionary thing, the stick base, right above the knurled wheel. It’s soft metal and possibly not designed for the forces we put on a non-mobile stick. I saw a Youtube vid from someone who literally wedged lego blocks above the wheel. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/debolestis?section=TM+Warthog&s=0 is another option.

Sorry for confusing you.
It works very well now.

Buhli