Ramp start?
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….c. At this point check the SEC caution light is off. WHERE IS THIS LIGHT? …
On the main caution warning panel …. just right of your right knee … forward of the stick.
…. 15. I click Idle Detent and Move Throttle FWD. I MOVE THE THROTTLE TO THE MIDDLE OF ITs RANGE (50%).
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No; that is backwards. Move the throttle forward, then click the idle detent.
Then, as Frederf says, move the throttle forward further and insure RPM are climbing steadily before moving the throttle back to idle.
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I went through the manual and wrote down step by step what Im supposed to do. Trying to follow it to a “T”:
.I think you should reed the manuals, a lot of this information is there.
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I think you should reed the manuals, a lot of this information is there.
I did. I made these notes from the manual because the in depth manual is hard for me to follow while in sim.
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I did. I made these notes from the manual because the in depth manual is hard for me to follow while in sim.
Section 1.2 of the TO-BMS1F-16CM-1 will show you the location of the SEC light and air cond panel
Also there is a lot of websites and video out there training and showing engine start. (over 14k in google)
For example this video
it has a lot of errors, but it has the basics and is more that good enough to give you an idea. Maybe you can see what your missing. -
I was having the same issue as Wedge and Supanova yesterday for my first ramp starts.
Your JFS isn’t toggling off - like it’s supposed to at 55% - (I think the switch will still be in Start 2, the indicator will simply extinguish if you don’t get a successful light of the engine).
The specific sequence of pressing the Idle Detent key and moving the throttle isn’t very intuitive or clear from the manuals (I was attempting to set the throttle into the Idle Detent and then bring it out of the detent through throttle movement, which I later learned was incorrect).
Either the hotkey (Alt-I) or button mapped on my throttle wasn’t working, but it seemed as if every combination of pressing the hotkey and moving the throttle wasn’t resulting in a successful start.
What I had to do after START 2 was selected, the SEC light on the warning panel extinguished, and the RPM rose to about 20%, was bring the throttle forward to about halfway, click the area just left of the paddle switch on the throttle with the mouse, and then bring the throttle back to idle. This will proceed with a successful engine start.
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Section 1.2 of the TO-BMS1F-16CM-1 will show you the location of the SEC light and air cond panel
Also there is a lot of websites and video out there training and showing engine start. (over 14k in google)
For example this video
it has a lot of errors, but it has the basics and is more that good enough to give you an idea. Maybe you can see what your missing.I want to go by the book/proper protocol. I know I could have made notes from videos, but most all are from 4.32 or leave out a lot of steps just to get you up and running. To me if you are going to go through the trouble of ramp starting dont cut corners and use proper protocol for full immersion - the whole point of a ramp start. How many real world pilots short cut it?
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I want to go by the book/proper protocol. I know I could have made notes from videos, but most all are from 4.32 or leave out a lot of steps just to get you up and running. To me if you are going to go through the trouble of ramp starting dont cut corners and use proper protocol for full immersion - the whole point of a ramp start. How many real world pilots short cut it?
How many real world pilots start their RL F16 sitting in front of a computer screen using a keyfile? There will be compromises in the Sim. Such as the precise way Idle-Detent works to get a good start, for example.
Your choices boil down to …. 1.) Do it the exact proper RL F16 way and maybe get a bad result in BMS, 2.) Do it in a way that works for BMS but maybe isn’t RL perfect, or 3.) Build a pit with a RL TQS and a RL Idle-Detent and map BMS commands accordingly.
(No guarantee on BMS compatibility for #3).
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I went through the manual and wrote down step by step what Im supposed to do. Trying to follow it to a “T”:
7. LIGHTING panel (Stick).
a. PRIMARY INST PNL – set CW as needed.
b. DATA ENTRY DISPLAY – set CW as needed.
c. FLOOD – CONSOLES – set CW as needed.
8. AIR COND panel (Stick). I CANT FIND THIS PANEL.
a. AIR SCOURCE knob – NORM.The AIR SCOURCE knob found on the AIR CONT panel is on the left side under the arm rest. You can get the click sticky through the arm rest, just right click it once to set to NORM.
Hope this helps
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I was able to fully complete the ramp start by manipulating the throttle more like advised then hitting idle detent switch/button on the throttle. I wish this was a little more clear in the manual.
Thanks so much for everyone’s help with this.
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I didn’t think the SEC light would be such a problem. I just meant it as visible feedback in the process.
The idle detent clickzone (or alt-i for the callback, it’s the same result) will change which side of the OFF-IDLE fence the throttle is on. However when the idle detent command is pressed the software looks what is the placement of the throttle axis. Depending on the current condition it will change state or not. This is why you place the throttle axis first and then submit the command by activating the idle detent command.
Throttle OFF
If throttle is near idle when idle detent is triggered -> Remain OFF
If throttle is advanced when idle detent is triggered -> Switch to ONThrottle ON (working range)
If throttle is near idle when idle detent is triggered -> Switch to OFF
If throttle is advanced when idle detent is triggered -> Remain ONSimple?
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Your choices boil down to …. 1.) Do it the exact proper RL F16 way and maybe get a bad result in BMS, 2.) Do it in a way that works for BMS but maybe isn’t RL perfect, or 3.) Build a pit with a RL TQS and a RL Idle-Detent and map BMS commands accordingly.
(No guarantee on BMS compatibility for #3).
It works fine, incidentally. You set the Idle Cutoff option in the BMS configuration, and set the IDLE part of the axis to just aft of the IDLE position on your throttle. Throttle up after JFS spools up then just consists of lifting the throttle over the detent, and dropping it into IDLE. Much easier than fluffing around with all these Alt + Is and Idle Detent button presses and mouse clicks…
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It works fine, incidentally. You set the Idle Cutoff option in the BMS configuration, and set the IDLE part of the axis to just aft of the IDLE position on your throttle. Throttle up after JFS spools up then just consists of lifting the throttle over the detent, and dropping it into IDLE. Much easier than fluffing around with all these Alt + Is and Idle Detent button presses and mouse clicks…
But it’s not the same as Real. I may have to quit until I can do this: [
]( )Nothing else is real enough anymore. It ruins the “immersion”. It’s almost as bad as the mobile ringing mid-bomb run.
Ahhhh Gawd!!! It just hit me. It doesn’t matter what I do. BMS …. Is. Not. Real. I’m crushed.
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Actually, that was the kind of thing I was advocating. You said, build a pit with RL gear, but that you had no guarantee on BMS being able to make sense of it. Well, its been done (not by me sadly!). And it works with BMS.
Incidentally - his throttle rail works incorrectly
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How many real world pilots short cut it?
Depending on many factors, many RL pilots cut some of the steps or do them differently. If their first jet went down to maintenance problems they might cut some checks. (except the EPU check, that one always gets done) I have seen pilots do a Sec check and check the EPU at the same time while moving the flight controls or bit checking them, etc.
@Blu3wolf:Incidentally - his throttle rail works incorrectly
How so?
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How so?
His throttle can be pushed from OFF to IDLE. I am fairly certain that you should need to rotate the throttle grip outboard to move it from OFF to IDLE. Going from IDLE to OFF should require the cutoff release to be actuated to be able to rotate the throttle outboard. OFF to IDLE should not need the cutoff release.
His video depicts the throttle being moved straight forward from OFF to IDLE, without any rotation of the grip required.
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Ok, lol We should provide a 70FI so he can properly inspect it.:rolleyes:
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I understand you have quite a bit more firsthand F-16 experience than my none, so if I am in error, I would be quite happy to hear it! Was this behavior not the case on the aircraft you worked?
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You are 100% correct on the RL behavior. The throttle in the video has all the needed functionality and is more than adequate I think, just saying.
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In fairness, so is a stock cougar throttle. That has all the functionality you need. It doesnt have all that which I want, though.
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His throttle can be pushed from OFF to IDLE. I am fairly certain that you should need to rotate the throttle grip outboard to move it from OFF to IDLE. Going from IDLE to OFF should require the cutoff release to be actuated to be able to rotate the throttle outboard. OFF to IDLE should not need the cutoff release.
His video depicts the throttle being moved straight forward from OFF to IDLE, without any rotation of the grip required.
You’re harshing my buzz, dude.