I also have the X52 Pro joystick and throttle H.O.T.A.S and have been having quite the time deciphering how to config the controls. For some crazy reason the stage-one trigger is set to chaff/flares and is driving me nutzz. Ill report back here to you if I devise a solution to our problem.

I don’t have pics as I opened mine up awhile ago but I can tell you it’s not any more difficult than any other stick ive opened up. The force sensing part is just an enclosed cylinder base with wires coming out from what I recall. The hard part was keeping the wiring stuff intact when I separated the stick halves, but again not really any different than others I’ve seen. I had same problem with pickle and ended up gluing a thin piece of plastic between the button and contact

@thereisnotime:

oh OP was talking about the rotary called the “slider” in the GUI, not the actual slider latch on the throttle, my bad.

I was starting to think the same thing? One rotary knob is called Slider the other is Dial. Not really sure why he’s having so much trouble. I think he must have realised and hasn’t come back to thread, so this thread is dead maybe?

Awesome!
Thanks so much starfuryth.

It was not latched. I’m pulling my hair out on this one. Thanks for the help though. Appreciate it.

@kmaultsby:

Hello, all Saitek users I am thinking of purchasing a Saitek Hotas system to use with BMS but have some questions which you all can help me with. As with a lot of others, Thustmaster is out the question.$$$
1. Which model do you suggest?
2. Do you use DX to set up your button profile or Saitek software?
3. Is the software difficult to use?
4. Do I need rudder pedals?
5. Are there any recommended profiles available?
Any other suggestions or feedback is greatly appreciated.

K, It just so happens I can give you current input, as my recent hard drive crash led to me rebuilding everything. So,

I have had very good luck with the X-65. As for features, it’s force sensing, and sturdy, but the button set up(hats instead of buttons )is the main advantage
2)I suggest the DX method, with the SST as back up. I was able to set up the main functions (TMS, etc) up via DX, some others “wouldn’t take” and SST came to the rescue.
3)No. I would recommend pedals,if only more for NWS then actual rudder function. I know the -65 has rudder on the stick, if memory serves the -55 does , as well. I’m with Blu on profiles-set it up as real as possible. I use the POV for TMS, the lower right (hat 2?) for DMS,hat 3 for CMDS, hat 6 for comms, etc.But, that’s pure personal preference.
Otherwise, I do like the switches on the -55/56 throttle base. I lot of people here swear by the -52.
You can still find the -65’s on EBay, and the drivers and software are still available at Logitech.

Thanks for the steer! I’ll have another look.

Hope this helps.
Logitech support says this is the correct directory:
ftp://ftp.saitek.com/pub/software/full/x55_rhino/

Please note the Windows 10 and 8 folders which have the latest drivers for Win10, latest drivers/software for Win8.

For those who hate the throttle tension mechanism.

X56 or X55 throttle too stiff and inconsistent through range of movement? My simple mod will fix this for good!

Materials needed:

Jewelers screwdriver (Small phillips head)
Plastic lollipop sticks or wooden icy-pole sticks at least one
A clean soft cloth
Clean work space well lit
A small container for screws
A stubby cooler (Drink cooler Neoprene foam (wet suit material) type needs to be the thinner 2 to 4mm to fit
BOSCH Rubber Grease RG4 (Made in Australia presumably under license) or equivalent castor oil based plastic/rubber grease https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/p…ngs-/ZPN-16970

Before you start ensure you watch the youtube fix that involves removing the sticky friction grease here:

For me after completing the above procedure the throttles response was better however the system is fatally flawed. My throttle once positioned would be fine for a few minutes but would ever so slowly move under its own weight either side of centre due to the arcing motion.

step one loosen tension mechanism all the way and remove 15 screws from base some will remain in base till removed be careful not to lose any also note they are all the same length
Remove base
Using the lollypop or Icy Pole sticks clean as much of the sticky friction grease (GOOP) from the grooves in the throttle
Now clean remaining goop from base plate friction blades and base of throttle mechanism
Note this does not need to be spotlessly clean just remove 90-98% of the goop

Cut down seam of stubby cooler and cut off the base leaving a nice rectangle of neoprene
Using the friction blades on the base plate as a template mark the radius onto the neoprene and cut out 2 (Should end up approximately 10mm high at centre and 90mm long.)
These neoprene pieces are inserted into the grooves at the base of the throttle sticks allowing the friction blades to push up against them

Now insert these into the slots that you cleaned the goop out of ensure they are gently pushed into the grooves (you may need to peel the printed fabric off the neoprene to make it easier)
Once inserted they should be flush or slightly inside the grooves but no more than 1 or 2mm down
apply grease to neoprene and a small amount to the top of the friction blades

reassemble and test you should find that the friction is consistent throughout the range of movement
Adjust tension mechanism to put some pressure on the neoprene inserts to ensure they are seated (Do not be forceful you may not get the original full range of tension depending on the size and density of neoprene used)
adjust tension to desired level and enjoy your NEW FEEL throttle…(YW)

Any questions please message me or reply to this post.

Cheers and happy Throttling

UPDATE: I will be adding some pics soon possibly this weekend for anyone interested in doing this mod.

Nudge

Thanks, and sorry for the delay in responding. I work on a drilling rig and I’m away for 3 weeks at the time, just now getting back to working on things again.

Oddly enough, I haven’t had any more issues with the radar slew. Apparently it was some kind of temporary glitch on my end, I’ve made no changes to anything and it seems to have fixed itself at some point.

I spent the better part of 2 days working up a new profile in the Saitek profile editor only to find out what everyone means by “callback”. Hitting ‘G’ to raise the gear doesn’t necessarily mean that I can program ‘G’ to a button on my stick and have it work. This is going to be an interesting adventure, I have NO idea how to work with Excel, much less how to build a keyfile.:rofl:

set up the c stick as bands for button presses, like to 90-100 and 0-10

@MorteSil:

Sold to madcatz…yes. Logitech is not madcatz.

I did not tell who she was sold to.

Morte you know not to have any rudder input on crosswind touchdown, right?

If you don’t want to run a profile, then don’t. There are no drivers to uninstall.

hi,
so I have started to take my first clumsy stepsin BMS.
So now I am at stage where I would like to properly set up my HOTAS (Saitek X56 Pro RHINO).
My approach to this would be to take the pre-defined keyboard keystrokes and map them to the buttons on the HOTAS using the Saitek configuration tool.
So far so good… only now I realized that some (not all) of the buttons seem to have functions already mapped to them by BMS. I haven’t found a way to access what is bound to where let alone how to change it.
Ideallly I would like only axis controls mapped by BMS and all buttons to be mapped via mapping keystrokes to buttons on the stick/throttle.

Can anyone help me with this?

EDIT:
I have already found the place in the keyfile where the DX INputs are stored… I removed them or changed all the callbacks to “simDoNothing” but that has not had any effect…

EDIT2:
turns out restarting the game after loading the new keyfile did the trick…
my problems have been solved…

-CLOSED-

Hello and thank you for your interest, it can be difficult because I use translator.
On the setup screen everything is fine, and disconnecting and reconnecting USB during dry does not change anything.
Regards.
Please hide in the trash, the problem resolved itself 🙂

On my x65 the trim is set with the pov hat by mapping the keystrokes.

@Rthorflech:

So it clearly states that you should NOT copy your old user config file over from U2:

Does this include my flight stick settings? Is there a quick way to load them from my old profile?

R, from my understanding at the time, the answer is unfortunately no. I know that I just reprogrammed via the Dx method. It seemed simpler then trying to sort changing callbacks

I was wrong. Once I stripped the Saitek drivers completely off of my computer, I was able to get to the windows calibrator and then it worked. Thanks a bunch.

As SL says the 1 to 6 modes are defined by “blue buttons” as seen in the grid view. The mode buttons default to being blue buttons assigned to control mode selection. To use the mode buttons for standard inputs remove mode columns or set a different button to define that mode selection. I never found having different modes to be worth the trouble and deleted 5 of the mode columns. Alternately you can define different buttons to enact those mode columns (right click in the blue space and choose a different button).
http://i.imgur.com/3D3sHpp.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Saitek-Flight-Combat-Rudder-Pedals/dp/B004ING996/ref=sr_1_31?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1494389164&sr=1-31&keywords=saitek

Is this what you want? I ran across this and thought of you in the event you might pick up a set. “?”
I did have mine for some years and they worked well.
Hope this helps.

Marc